Track/race prepping a Daytona 675?

[300weatherby]

I don't have a 675 but really like the look and sound of them, I have one question and i feel it is very import one.

You said that the bike was crashed by a mechanic into a car that pulled out in front of him?? THis then givening you a bent swing arm?? Right?

Question can you find someone to see if rest of bike bent or straight IE frame/chassis is straight. If frame is bent then I would not spend a sent on the bike adn use for spare parts.

If you like more info on my PM me

Sam

Did you mean forks? swingarm is at the other end of the bike.......

[300weatherby]

Do you (or anyone) have the part number for the baffled sump gasket?

Also, how much shorter is the 09 dipstick? Or how much above max would you run on an 06/07 dipstick?

Cheers.

Might have been me you got your dual mount crash bungs from, can do a race sump baffle if you need, the Rocket3 oil pressure relief valve is good if you are not running the oil pump gearing kit.

Run a 15t front and work around 45/46 rear, try not to run 16/47-48 -49 as the chain pull angle adds complexity to already difficult geometry on a 675.

-On a strandard 675 run forks flush with triple clamps, use the softest rear spring you can that still allows correct sag numbers.
-On the front, run firmest springs that still give the correct sag numbers in tandem with lesser preload.
-On the front, with the bumpstops out, the standard valving up front is good enough for most track day/ club level riders, the mechanical bottom out is 17mm standard, get rid of that and run a reduced air gap, will cost a great deal less than Racetec/Ohlins valving, spend the dough on track time first.
Rear valving on standard shock is appalling, but changing out the spring is of huge benefit.

- Alternately, modify your triple clamps with 5mm offset to give the bike back trail and add stability, this will allow you to use rear ride height in tandem with fork through to get the geometry that suits the bike and track most ridden. (I run 8mm and can use lots of ride height without the bike being difficult on trail braking and unstable on hard exit )

The above gets around the need to change the swingarm pivots to gain sidegrip on exit.

[SuperSonic]

Did you mean forks? swingarm is at the other end of the bike.......

No I mean the whole bike needs to be check, but I am really talking about the main frame. As the swing arm is connected to the main frame. On these bikes that point is very weak, if under stress will/can cause the main frame to bend a bit or the joint of swing arm and main frame to bend. This then making the bike junk with a bent frame and un-tuneable really.

[tail_end_charlie]

I don't have a 675 but really like the look and sound of them, I have one question and i feel it is very import one.

You said that the bike was crashed by a mechanic into a car that pulled out in front of him?? THis then givening you a bent swing arm?? Right?

No. From what I can see from the damage on the bike, and from explanation from the shop as to how the crash occured, I don't see any damage to the swingarm.

Question can you find someone to see if rest of bike bent or straight IE frame/chassis is straight. If frame is bent then I would not spend a sent on the bike adn use for spare parts.

If you like more info on my PM me

Sam

There is some rubber marks on the bottom of the fork tube from where the car tire hit, and that is one thing that worries me. My plan is to take the forks out and send them down to Robert Taylor at KSS to check and make sure the forks are still straight and nothing has been bent. So long as they are good, I'll continue on with the project. The swingarm doesn't have any damage on it to indicate that it was hit hard on anything, so it should be alright. Looking at the back of the bike the rear subframe (seat assembly) is canted off to one side just a little bit. That should be the only 'structural' damage to the bike and the only reason that it was de-registered. From what I have heard/read the OEM rear subframe is a bit soft and does't take much of a fall to bend it. I still need to check and see that it hasn't twisted the mounting tabs on the bike frame, but I'm pretty sure that its all good.

Overall the crash was a bit more of a relatively low speed glancing blow off a car and the bike when down and scraped things up a bit. Other than the rear subframe I don't think there is any other serious damage to the bike, just cosmetic (going to get the forks checked just in case). I will, however, take a close look at it when I'm stipping it down to see if there is any areas of damage that didn't appear during the intial inspection.

[tail_end_charlie]

Might have been me you got your dual mount crash bungs from, can do a race sump baffle if you need, the Rocket3 oil pressure relief valve is good if you are not running the oil pump gearing kit.

Currently looking at doing the new sump baffle, not sure about the RIII mod yet, will look into it and see how much work/expense it is. I'll probably do it though.

Run a 15t front and work around 45/46 rear, try not to run 16/47-48 -49 as the chain pull angle adds complexity to already difficult geometry on a 675.

Running stock right now (16/47 I believe) so new sprockets are on the short list. Might as well go for a 520 chain as well, right?

-On a standard 675 run forks flush with triple clamps, use the softest rear spring you can that still allows correct sag numbers.

Right now they are at the stock setting in the triple clamps (bout 5mm proud). Replaced the rear spring with a softer Ohlins (9.5 I think?)with a lot of preload on it to get the correct sag.

-On the front, run firmest springs that still give the correct sag numbers in tandem with lesser preload.

Check. Standard springs with the preload wound almost all the way out gives me pretty good sag numbers. I'm around 70 kgs in full kit.

-On the front, with the bumpstops out, the standard valving up front is good enough for most track day/ club level riders, the mechanical bottom out is 17mm standard, get rid of that and run a reduced air gap, will cost a great deal less than Racetec/Ohlins valving, spend the dough on track time first.

Check. KSS removed something like 80% of the hydralic bottoming, but we left the standard pistons and valving un-modified. I might get them to modify them when I send the forks down to get checked out.

Rear valving on standard shock is appalling, but changing out the spring is of huge benefit.

Check. KSS modified the rear valving a little bit and am running it in conjunction with a softer spring.

- Alternately, modify your triple clamps with 5mm offset to give the bike back trail and add stability, this will allow you to use rear ride height in tandem with fork through to get the geometry that suits the bike and track most ridden. (I run 8mm and can use lots of ride height without the bike being difficult on trail braking and unstable on hard exit )

The above gets around the need to change the swingarm pivots to gain sidegrip on exit.

For now I'll hold off on that. Right now I'm not carrying enough cornerspeed, nor accelerating hard enough out of the corners to really test the sidegrip. Soon enough I'll have to find my big boy balls and push things a little harder to find any handling problems that arn't rider induced errors.

[SuperSonic]

No. From what I can see from the damage on the bike, and from explanation from the shop as to how the crash occured, I don't see any damage to the swingarm.



There is some rubber marks on the bottom of the fork tube from where the car tire hit, and that is one thing that worries me. My plan is to take the forks out and send them down to Robert Taylor at KSS to check and make sure the forks are still straight and nothing has been bent. So long as they are good, I'll continue on with the project. The swingarm doesn't have any damage on it to indicate that it was hit hard on anything, so it should be alright. Looking at the back of the bike the rear subframe (seat assembly) is canted off to one side just a little bit. That should be the only 'structural' damage to the bike and the only reason that it was de-registered. From what I have heard/read the OEM rear subframe is a bit soft and does't take much of a fall to bend it. I still need to check and see that it hasn't twisted the mounting tabs on the bike frame, but I'm pretty sure that its all good.

Overall the crash was a bit more of a relatively low speed glancing blow off a car and the bike when down and scraped things up a bit. Other than the rear subframe I don't think there is any other serious damage to the bike, just cosmetic (going to get the forks checked just in case). I will, however, take a close look at it when I'm stipping it down to see if there is any areas of damage that didn't appear during the intial inspection.

Hey, sorry miss understood the crash, great to hear that you are getting forks checked etc, and check steering bearings etc too while you are at it.

SOunds like you are all over it, great to read you are getting chassis and suspension sorted before the need to power up the bike.