Originally Posted by
iaingsx1300r
Do I interpret that as " no, dont do it without first splitting the cases and replacing all the seals"?
you could 'try' a bit of 'black magic'.. spray a silicon/seal lube into the crankcase and let it soak for several hours.. (would mean removing the top end) then turn it gently and slowly over by hand for several revolutions.... Likelihood is though, they will have hardened anyway and will likely fail sooner or later. As long as the rings arent stuck etc, the obvious sign is that it wont tick over properly, and/or run lean as the crankcase seals themselves are allowing air into the crankcase chamber. Remember there are seals between each cylinder as well.
Good luck, if it's a 500e? it isnt an 'H1'... H1, H1a, H1b, and some H1c are the 'originals', H1e is stamped on the motor, H1f on the frame E=engine F=frame. If it has a 'tail piece' disc brakes, and shows signs of factory produced 'triangulation plates' welded into the frame? it's a later or KH500, the porting was also revised in the later models, losing about 15mph to the mach 3 proper. There was also a mid 70's 500 that had mach 111 on the side panels, just to add confusion, it was known as the KH500 in England. the very earlt H1/H1a have a small plastic pipe on the outside of the oiltank as a 'level sighter'.. they also have a slab sided tank very similar in design to the Avenger/Samuri 2t's that preceded them. The later 'softer' tuned had the smooth sculpted fuel tanks. However just to add MORE confusion the H1c had some 'leftover' h1a/b motors fitted, as well as the 'softer tuned' version that replaced it.
Early models have a straight exhaust, the later ones have the well known 'riser' pipe design.
If the road to hell is paved with good intentions; and a man is judged by his deeds and his actions, why say it's the thought that counts? -GrayWolf
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks