Clutch plates?

**Scuba_Steve** · 18th January 2013, 13:00

Is there a sort of recommended time frame to replace clutch plates? or a "tell" of when to replace them? Is it even worth replacing them or is this overkill?

Reason I ask is think I'm up for clutch spring replacement, just thought while I'm in the area might kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak
The bikes over a couple decades old, I'd assume still running OG gear & done over 62k miles (or close to 100k km for people in the modern world)

So should I be looking at replacing the plates as well or just stick with the springs? This thought has come about due to "clunkyness" with gear changes, so if I'm chopping down the wrong tree feel free to inform as much too.

**bogan** · 18th January 2013, 13:12

Seems unusual to be up for a spring replacement instead of plates, why do the springs need replacing?

Easy enough to measure the fiber thickness, and check the steels for glazing or warping once you get it open though.

**Scuba_Steve** · 18th January 2013, 13:30

simple answer is I'm a vehicle operator not so much a fixer, & searching round this seemed to be the most logical reason for "cluckyness" in gear change, as I said feel free to say if I'm chopping down the wrong tree

**bogan** · 18th January 2013, 13:38

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

simple answer is I'm a vehicle operator not so much a fixer, & searching round this seemed to be the most logical reason for "cluckyness" in gear change, as I said feel free to say if I'm chopping down the wrong tree

Cluckyness might be a chicken in the airbox?

Clunkyness on the other hand can be any number of things, imo from the most likely down:

Chain tension
Cush drive
Clutch basket wear (notched cage)
clutch plates worn or warped
clutch anti-chatter springs kaput

**imdying** · 18th January 2013, 14:59

Springs have a free length measurement. Get yourself a workshop manual for the bike, some verniers, and then whip em out and measure them. Plates too. Have a look at fingers on the basket for signs of wear/grooving that the clutch can hang up on.

But before you do that, clean and lube your chain, then adjust it correctly. Amazing how much difference that can make if it's out of whack... clunky central.

**Scuba_Steve** · 18th January 2013, 15:04

Originally Posted by imdying

Springs have a free length measurement. Get yourself a workshop manual for the bike, some verniers, and then whip em out and measure them. Plates too. Have a look at fingers on the basket for signs of wear/grooving that the clutch can hang up on.

But before you do that, clean and lube your chain, then adjust it correctly. Amazing how much difference that can make if it's out of whack... clunky central.

I've got a Haynes so might give that ago. As for the chain I know it's not that, I keeps an eye on me chain it's at the right tension, clean & oily

**actungbaby** · 20th January 2013, 09:08

Originally Posted by bogan

Seems unusual to be up for a spring replacement instead of plates, why do the springs need replacing?

Easy enough to measure the fiber thickness, and check the steels for glazing or warping once you get it open though.

I think heat takes a little bit tension out of them after very long time

When changed the vfr ones u chould tell diffrence between the new ones and

The orginals

**Coolz** · 20th January 2013, 12:27

The sign of worn plates or springs is usually slippage under load. Your problem sounds like the plates are not seperating enough. this could be caused by notchy basket,out of adjustment at the clutch end not handlebars or the plates have stuck together from too much time on kb and not enough riding.

**kneescraper** · 15th February 2013, 21:44

Could you plates also be clutch bound???? If you clutch cable and lever havent been adjusted correctly for quite awhile the clutch and friction plates can be bound...also the clutch basket where the plates sit can get grooves worn into them which makes the clutch clunky.

If your sure its in the clutch area remove the plates and check for hot spots on the plates, they will be blue-ish in colour. You can bead blast the plates and sand the friction plates if they still have plenty of meat on them. When sanding the plates get a flat peice of glass or wood about 500x500mm and tape a peice of rough-ish sand paper to the flat area then sand the plates on that. This will insure a nice flat even surface, you dont need to sand alot off, just skim it. If you dont have a bead blaser just do the same thing for the plates.

If the basket is at fault then thats alittle tougher, you have to use a good file and file the grooves out at the correct angle.

Remember that when your reassembling the clutch pack to soak all the plates and surfaces in good engine oil if your clutch is wet clutch. Never assemble a wet clutch dry!

**FJRider** · 15th February 2013, 21:55

Originally Posted by imdying

But before you do that, clean and lube your chain, then adjust it correctly. Amazing how much difference that can make if it's out of whack... clunky central.

Check clutch adjustment first.

**AllanB** · 15th February 2013, 22:13

What's bike? Can get well priced clutch/spring kits from usa .......... do the lot as if u just do springs on old plates u may end up pulling it apart shortly after.

**Scuba_Steve** · 16th February 2013, 08:54

I haven't done anything yet, through laziness & the fact this is my transport so if I can't get it back together by a Mon I'm fucked sorta thing & I'm really not a mechanic at all, I just stumble round.

A bit more into what's happening is I'll sit at lights in neutral but sometimes when kicking it into gear it'll grind then clunk in, sorta like when you forget the clutch (and no I'm not forgetting the clutch) this will also happen when changing up gears sometimes (not so much on the way down) & I must say it's not very comfortable on the foot

**FJRider** · 16th February 2013, 09:06

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

I haven't done anything yet, through laziness & the fact this is my transport so if I can't get it back together by a Mon I'm fucked sorta thing & I'm really not a mechanic at all, I just stumble round.

A bit more into what's happening is I'll sit at lights in neutral but sometimes when kicking it into gear it'll grind then clunk in, sorta like when you forget the clutch (and no I'm not forgetting the clutch) this will also happen when changing up gears sometimes (not so much on the way down) & I must say it's not very comfortable on the foot

Try adjusting the clutch cable a bit.

From neutral ... go to second gear first then down to first.

**FJRider** · 16th February 2013, 09:09

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

I haven't done anything yet, through laziness & the fact this is my transport so if I can't get it back together by a Mon I'm fucked sorta thing & I'm really not a mechanic at all, I just stumble round.

Is the clutch ... CABLE operated .. ???

**jellywrestler** · 16th February 2013, 09:14

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

Is there a sort of recommended time frame to replace clutch plates? or a "tell" of when to replace them? Is it even worth replacing them or is this overkill?

Reason I ask is think I'm up for clutch spring replacement, just thought while I'm in the area might kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak
The bikes over a couple decades old, I'd assume still running OG gear & done over 62k miles (or close to 100k km for people in the modern world)

So should I be looking at replacing the plates as well or just stick with the springs? This thought has come about due to "clunkyness" with gear changes, so if I'm chopping down the wrong tree feel free to inform as much too.

wouldn't you think it would be an advantage to actually bother to mention what sort of bike it is?