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Thread: The definitive Bucket bike track protection guide

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fi5hy View Post
    Yes they spark and look like something on your bike is hitting the ground, We had Chopper run them for a very very short time (one race) before someone noticed and asked for them to be removed.
    Mine don't spark but they do sound like the bike is scraping. I guess I should put the plastic ones back on next time.
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  2. #17
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    From the PM bag, thanks Bkts4me, good find

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/skat...-567384036.htm

    The more I think about it the more I think the rear axle is one of the hardest areas to protect. The chain adjuster makes drilling that area of the swingarm impracticable.

    Some bigger bikes have stand mounts which you can screw bobbins & thus bungs easily, but most buckets would not without welding some on.

    If you put them just forward of the chain adjusters there is the potential that in a typical low-side ones body hitting the deck under the bike at the time of impact is levering the front of the bike up a little so the bung & the axle will both scrape.
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  3. #18
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    Ok for those with little skill/time and a decent budget with an FXR http://www.bigknobs.com.au/bucketinfo.htm

    I have a set of the front sliders, and rear paddock stand lifter slider combo on mine, really well made and have worn well. The rear lifter part didnt really work with my paddock stand, but I suspect that had for to do with my stand than the sliders.


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  4. #19
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    That looks pretty complete & good to see FXR have those SW mounts.

    I would be a bit unkeen to put a plastic sleeve under an axle nut, but I have seen bungs on top of Nuts so not sure how they are secured. Has to be easy enough to get out of the way with wheel changes.
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  5. #20
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    Plastic bubbly wine bottle 'corks' are the best cheap alternative for the bar ends?
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  6. #21
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    Yea I know what you mean Dave. Not something I was keen on either; but with the Big Knobs design the plastic slider bolts onto a steel backing plate, and it is the backing plate which the axle goes through so no plastic under the axle to cause issues.

    For the record Qkkid was in my bed, not the other way round

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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deano View Post
    Plastic bubbly wine bottle 'corks' are the best cheap alternative for the bar ends?
    I have used them from a while. They preform ok but really only a one hit wonder and not a long term solution. I really should get something better.

    For the record Qkkid was in my bed, not the other way round

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  8. #23
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    I have already written that into the draft (that is slowly formulating in spare time) Champagne corks are total rubbish, they can stay in place, but they can pop out just as easy. Too dangerous.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    I have already written that into the draft (that is slowly formulating in spare time) Champagne corks are total rubbish, they can stay in place, but they can pop out just as easy. Too dangerous.
    I've found the plastic brown 'Radial finned' type to be quite resilient.
    That is with them fitting tightly into the bar ends without them being so tight that they are damaged on the way in.
    I've drilled a small hole though the bar and slider and retained with lock-wire when there has been any doubt.
    I replace them when there is any sign that crash damage may affect them being retained.

    Good, well fastened solid nylon will always be better though.

    I won't ever use the expanding rubber bar end retainers again either, too unreliable; for worse than brown plastic corks.
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  10. #25
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    Where mounting axle sliders is too difficult I've had some success with drilling and tapping the axle ends to accept a capscrew and crash bung.
    The design is quite important, the shape of the bung needs to add to the support.


    There are some disadvantages to this approach;

    If they do snap the remains will be a shit to get out of the axle.
    As with any crash protection, If they fail the track will suffer. Back up can't be overlooked here, ask what will hit next if it snaps or the handlebar breaks or...
    When used on my rear axle they often pull it out of alignment.
    There is a risk of bending the axle in a big crash.

    All this aside I think in a lot of situations they are a reasonable option.
    Making them as short as practical is helpful, to minimise the strain on the cap screw.


    The attached picture shows some things to bear in mind when making sliders, this applies to more than just sliders on axle ends.


    The top one is good because it has a meaty area of plastic to clamp down on, unlike the bottom picture.

    I should have added numbers, however...

    Notice the middle pic isn't well supported?
    With a real good smash it is much more likely to shear the bolt off. That's really undesirable.
    The length of the slider gives more leverage, balancing this against position and sliding life is a delicate balance. A bit of common sense is needed to make the best call.
    From experience I would say that 40mm for the total length of the bun is pushing the max length for an M6 capscrew, I'm going to make new ones quite a lot shorter than this.

    Bottom Pic, make sure the screw has plenty of purchase in whatever it is screwed into, be it axle, swingarm or frame.
    A badly tacked on M6 nut won't work!

    Bottom pic again, make sure the bung has a good, grunty, bit of plastic underneath it, if it's too thin it will break.

    The other alternative is to use a steel base, I've done this when the axle is too skinny to tap into, I'll post diagram later but it wasn't too far off that big knobs one shown above.

    A slight radius on cuts is helpful too, sharp edges are bad for strength.



    More to come, please let me know if this is constructive or not...


    Edit: also note the shank of the capscrew on the top pic, this is stronger than if it was threaded all the way along; as in the other pics.
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by koba View Post
    ....Edit: also note the shank of the capscrew on the top pic, this is stronger than if it was threaded all the way along; as in the other pics.
    Well I didnt realise that; therefore your post was constructive and you can continue with the informative post. Nice diagram as well.

    For the record Qkkid was in my bed, not the other way round

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  12. #27
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    This has motivated me to sort out a few things. I've had a look at skate wheels and decided they were too soft and grippy adding to the possibility of them grabbing the track and either twisting whatever they were bolted to or them being ripped off and allowing damage to the track. I've cut pieces from hard slippy plastic and bolted and hoseclipped it into position over axle ends etc. I've used a standard wood saw to cut the plastic and flat wood drills to cut the holes and recesses. To cut round pieces out I've used a regular holesaw and cleared the plastic from the saw teeth using a duster gun regularly so it keeps cutting nicely. I used the duster gun so I didn't need to keep stopping the drill press. I found I had a couple of 6mm button head cap screws with 13mm dia heads. I used one to attach a round bobbin to the end of the front axle.

  13. #28
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    Mal & Mike, this is gold, some good ideas alternative to some of my thoughts & all the better for it.
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  14. #29
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    I've been running axle end bobins with the axle tapped for an M6 cap screw for a while now, they work fine but make sure you check the bolts after every crash. They can go great for ages but once they bend they only have a crash or two left in them which leaves you with no crash protection and a sheared bolt in your axle when they do break.
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  15. #30
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    Sounds to me like a solution that is best left to those savvy enough, but best avoided by general rank & file.
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