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Thread: The definitive Bucket bike track protection guide

  1. #31
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Sounds to me like a solution that is best left to those savvy enough, but best avoided by general rank & file.
    I'm pretty rank and I own a file. I have thought about changing from M6 to M8 to see how it would fare but I'm too lazy to get it done. There looks to be enough room for an 8mm capscrew.
    Stock is best

  2. #32
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    25th February 2007 - 23:37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    I'm pretty rank and I own a file. I have thought about changing from M6 to M8 to see how it would fare but I'm too lazy to get it done. There looks to be enough room for an 8mm capscrew.
    When I can I use M8 or even M10 bolts when attaching sliders as M6 tend to bend on me and can be a complete arse to get out.

    I'm sad to receive the email forwarded from Andrew about VIC club taking the rap for the damage to Kaitoke. Please, please get the bikes sorted before Sunday week. I remember when we got to use Kaitoke track again and the hoops Chris jumped through to give us the opportunity yo use the place. I'm not bitching but pleading for the bikes to be prepped (and I'm no saint at this). PM me if you need a hand and I will try to help when I can.
    Yes 4 strokes are for homos. Homo-sapiens that is, who have realized bigger is better.

  3. #33
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    ok the Doc is coming together as I have a moment, but probably needs a cull & edit.

    Some more pics of alternative/well engineered crash bung solutions for rear axlenuts or pegs would be good.


    + we probably need a mod to sticky this. Who is the Bucket section Mod these days?
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  4. #34
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Some ideas for folding pegs & what is exposed when they fold is a hot topic. The hinge or back of peg exposed can be quite dangerously sharp & often steel.



    Raising the question:
    I wonder if the time to get clearance from Kart tracks to run solid pegs? A non folding stubby peg with grunty slider in the end of it may be a good solution as long as it doesn't just break off.

    Some tracks had mandatory folding pegs rule. With many tracks in play now with NI series, is it possible to get a mandate from the various kart clubs on this matter?
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
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  5. #35
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    7th February 2009 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Some ideas for folding pegs & what is exposed when they fold is a hot topic. The hinge or back of peg exposed can be quite dangerously sharp & often steel.



    Raising the question:
    I wonder if the time to get clearance from Kart tracks to run solid pegs? A non folding stubby peg with grunty slider in the end of it may be a good solution as long as it doesn't just break off.

    Some tracks had mandatory folding pegs rule. With many tracks in play now with NI series, is it possible to get a mandate from the various kart clubs on this matter?
    l'v always thought solid nilon pegs are better but was told years ago to remove them ! dont know were there heads at! . some sand paper or rubber stuck to them and there all good

  6. #36
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Well rules are rules so folding it is. But time to re-evaluate the situation. I've always thought solid nylon a bit slippery & anything stuck to them doesn't stay stuck. But a solid ally peg with nylon bung is easy to make & hard to fault.

    But it needs approval from the kart tracks to use.
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  7. #37
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    10th June 2005 - 19:24
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    Unfortunately my bucket is in someone else's shed at the moment.

    Re difficult to nylon the axle/swingarm. what i did was take a rectangular block of Nylon about 50mm thick and use a skill saw set on about 15mm depth of cut and cut a channel just narrower than the height of the swing arm. essentially a C-section that fits tightly over the swingarm. then used counter bored cap screw to fit.

    Useless without photos but ill see what i can dig up

    CAPSCREWS ARE CHEAP just go to an engineering supplier.

  8. #38
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    ok here is the first draft.

    I'm not proud of it, but this is done in smoko breaks & last min rush to get something ready before the weekend for local race.


    It needs some improvements. This is where you come in. Critique & offer advice & pictures if you see areas that can be improved on other bikes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Bucket bike track protection Guide rev 1.pdf  
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  9. #39
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    I missed the racing today to prep the FXR better, more and better Nylon and a slide carb.

    I think brake and gear levers are under estimated as potential gougers.

    The FXR had a piece of Acetal screwed to the bottom of it but I've since decided it needs to be better than that.

    Have a look at the attached pic. Click image for larger version. 

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    Not how the plastic extends to under the leaver, this protects when it bends.

    Also note the footpeg and how I bent it around to cover the end of the peg too. (sorry for the bad photo, I'll get a better one later)

    Bending Acetal or other plastics can be done with a heat gun.
    I this case I firmly secured it in a vice, heated it until it was well hot then smashed around with a hammer. I kept smacking and keeping the heat on it until it was almost molten then leaned hard on it and held it in place until it cooled. It sprang back a wee bit so I put it in the vice in such a way that it moved it to the shape I want and then I applied more heat.

    Should have taken some pics but I prob will when I do Mark II, this will have better protection under the peg when it is folded up.
    All I have done there at this point it round off the sharp edges.
    Heinz Varieties

  10. #40
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Thanks this is good stuff, FXR brake lever is a problem.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
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  11. #41
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    16th November 2006 - 23:46
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    What i have used is plastic construction packers. These are cheap as. Come in 1mm/2mm/5mm/10mm/15mm/20mm thickness. About 100Wx200L.
    They are hard as, and should last long. They do wear away (which is good). I'll get a price on how much they really are, but i'm sure they are only a couple bucks each, and can be used everywhere. Just use a wood drill to get a flat for the bolt heads.

    I disagree with the use off hose clamps. They do come loose and have the potential to rotate. Often they have some metal exposing to the ground. Although not much damage will be done, there is the potential for some damage to be done.

    I am happy to drill and tap ends of axles for anyone in wellington, if they have no access to a lathe.Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #42
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    25th February 2007 - 23:37
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    Quote Originally Posted by quallman1234 View Post
    What i have used is plastic construction packers. These are cheap as. Come in 1mm/2mm/5mm/10mm/15mm/20mm thickness. About 100Wx200L.
    They are hard as, and should last long. They do wear away (which is good). I'll get a price on how much they really are, but i'm sure they are only a couple bucks each, and can be used everywhere. Just use a wood drill to get a flat for the bolt heads.

    I disagree with the use off hose clamps. They do come loose and have the potential to rotate. Often they have some metal exposing to the ground. Although not much damage will be done, there is the potential for some damage to be done.

    I am happy to drill and tap ends of axles for anyone in wellington, if they have no access to a lathe.Click image for larger version. 

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    I am going to have a play with some nylon to replace the bolts on my foot levers and come up with some oval shaped pieces to bolt on.
    Yes 4 strokes are for homos. Homo-sapiens that is, who have realized bigger is better.

  13. #43
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    I'm not clear on whether hose / pipe clamps are acceptable... here's my thinking (don't have any photos yet)

    1. at least 2 pipe clamps per piece of nylon - to resist slip or twist on impact. less of an issue / problem on square section fixings (eg. box steel frame / swingarm) - more of an issue on round fixings (eg. fork outers)
    2. metal part of clamp "countersunk" by at least 20mm - so a grind on the track cannot expose the pipe clamp

    what do you think? does the above work for fork outers & rear swingarm? (rather than drill and tap nylon fixing?)
    Quote Originally Posted by FlangMaster
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  14. #44
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    can work on forks, but not ideal as can slip if not really done up heaps. square section ok as holds better, but have to consider what shape slider is so doesn't twist.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  15. #45
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    15th April 2011 - 17:06
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Thanks this is good stuff, FXR brake lever is a problem.
    Yep they are a meaty bit of steel alright. A rainy Easter Sunday with the drill, a 10mm chopping board and the bench grinder resulted in these.
    Drilled a tapped two M6 holes on the brake lever and (for those with the bling aftermarket pegs that unbolt) block of nylon that covers the peg hinge area when the peg is vertical........a 15mm hole for the peg stub and then countersink with a 25mm wood borer so the peg sits inside.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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