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Thread: Save yaself some $ on engine oil

  1. #31
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    14th July 2006 - 21:39
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    Interesting article. I have noticed that the Mobil 1 4T motorcycle specific synthetic I use is just as expensive as the Mobil 1 car oil. Maybe it is exactly the same oil!

  2. #32
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    16th September 2004 - 16:48
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    I usually run the bike on diesel oil as a hot flush for about a tank between changes.

    Due to other commitments the fzzzzrrr has still got it in it 6 months later........and runs fine above 9000 (to answer a previous comment).

    I would be expecting some clutch slippage soon due to the detergents. But I imagine I will change the oil before then.

    As for motorbike oil. I find its hit and miss. I still lust for Motul but have been using other fine car oils last few years (5w50 Visco and the like).
    Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.

  3. #33
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    10th December 2008 - 07:39
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    I tipped out all the oil in my bikes and just run dry graphite power. With a little air compressor to blow it around the engine.

    That way I don't need an oil filter and I don't have to buy gaskets when I pull engine covers off.
    Quote Originally Posted by sil3nt View Post
    Fkn crack up. Most awkward interviewee ever i reckon haha.

  4. #34
    Graphite is not good for ball and roller bearings - it's ok if you have a separate gearbox, but if your gearbox runs in engine oil you better rethink that strategy.
    In and out of jobs, running free
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  5. #35
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    My turn-signal oil is looking to need a change.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    My turn-signal oil is looking to need a change.
    Make sure you get the stuff rated for the rear brake light.
    It's all Shits and Giggles until someone Giggles and Shits


  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Graphite is not good for ball and roller bearings - it's ok if you have a separate gearbox, but if your gearbox runs in engine oil you better rethink that strategy.

    ..... give that man a beer...

    A ball race works because of friction... Its friction that makes the
    balls/rollers roll... remove it with a friction reduceing additive &
    you increase the chance of ball/roller skid...

    In fact you increase the amount of skid..as it's already there..
    2 circular races of diffrent dia's... no ball/roller can roll around both at
    the same time with out a some skid... so the last thing you
    want to do is increase it.....
    Pete

    90% of all Harleys built are still on the road... The other 10% made it back home...
    Ducati... Makeing riders into mechaincs since 1964...

  8. #38
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    . . . is just as expensive as the Mobil 1 car oil. . .
    I know a funny story about that & at least in NZ, partially who's fault that is , but I'll keep hush, he's already given his opinion here.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  9. #39
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    30th January 2013 - 07:43
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    Your bike, put what you like in it mate, I'll still to my hellishly expensive motorcycle specific, full synthetic thanks.

    You may be interested to note that when running semi-synthetics there was a noticable difference in gearbox action between brands - to the point where the last lot of Castrol semi-synth was drained within 1,000kms and replaced will full synthetic (from a different maker) - been on full synth since for each change and the tranny shifting remains excellent between oil changes unlike semi-synth which deteriated as the kms went on.

    I'll add that I only do about 6,000 kms a year so I change the oil every Christmas. On a annual change at full rrp it is $2 a week for a top line oil. Better yet Repco has 20-30% off sales a couple of times a year and they stock Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil.


    But back to your orig post I know of many on US forums who run diesel oils in their bikes and there are many posts from apparent oil experts supplying data to back up your post.

    Then there is the 'how to run in your new bike' site that proclaims that you must thrash the living shit out of it from day one ......... here you go:

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    yup, full Synth AMSOIL for me, everytiime, never let me down.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDarkMatter View Post
    yup, full Synth AMSOIL for me, everytiime, never let me down.
    Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimeOut View Post
    Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter
    Interesting. Just changed from Mobil 1 due to horrible gearbox. Loved the 15W-50, but this new 10W-40 Mobil 1 just doesn't do it for me. Giving Penrite 5W-50 a go, but too early to form an opinion yet.
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip View Post
    Most motor oils have dual petrol and diesel ratings....
    Burn this rooster! He seems informed on the subject, and can present said information clearly and articulately. MUTHAFUGGA MUST BE A WITCH!

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimeOut View Post
    Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter
    Bought some today and will do an oil change tomorrow.I will report back with my opinion on it.
    Never too old to Rock n Roll.
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  14. #44
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    I have just started using the V2 big twin Mobil 1 after 80,000km on HD Syn 3. I will let you know what I think in another 80,000 km.
    Just another leather clad Tinkerbell.
    The Wanker on the Fucking Harley is going for a ride!

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip View Post
    I have just started using the V2 big twin Mobil 1 after 80,000km on HD Syn 3. I will let you know what I think in another 80,000 km.
    I'm no expert, but don't Harley's require mineral oil to avoid flat spotting the bearing rollers?

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