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Thread: Suzuki TS185 maintenance

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    The tank is the gathering place of ALL the crap that gets pumped into your tank via the nozzle of all the fuel stations you get petrol at. When fuel station tanks are low ... is usually the worst time. Stations that have a low volume of fuel pumped ... are even worse. The crud has more time to settle at the bottom of the tank and be a time bomb for unsuspecting motorists.
    Your guess (and your fathers) is as good as any what it is. However ... it is not recommended that it remains in YOUR tank. (you may have figured that out yourself)
    Water. Lurks at the bottom of any petrol bulk tank, station tank and eventually your bike tank. Those steel tanks were always a bit susceptable to rusting inside, and the cleaning trick is a good start. You can get special coating systems for inside the tank, but cleaning it out every once in a while is a good start. So is a wee in-line filter between your petrol tap and the carb, the clear plastic type that just plugs into the existing tubing.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  2. #17
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    with the strict proviso that it can be situated so that it doesn't cause the fuel line to crimp, which was all but impossible on GS suzukis which needed it most. I have since found & used Right angle filters. Good idea.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    with the strict proviso that it can be situated so that it doesn't cause the fuel line to crimp, which was all but impossible on GS suzukis which needed it most. I have since found & used Right angle filters. Good idea.
    Pigs tails.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  4. #19
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    26th February 2010 - 19:35
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    Question About Transmission Oil

    Any recommendations of what sort I should get in terms of brands etc.?
    My manual states that my TS takes SAE 20w/40.

    Question About Air Filter

    My manual doesn't that air filter oil is necessary for cleaning the foam. It simply states that clean 2 stroke oil should be used to regenerate the foam. Are there any significant differences between using standard 2 stroke oil and air filter oil other than the price?

  5. #20
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    25th April 2009 - 17:38
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    Chances are the transmission oil will be in there a lot longer than for a four stroke, but not subject to the carbon and heat that a 4T is. So with mine I just put a good brand oil (motul 5100) in it and leave it for ages; also worth noting it should be motorcycle suited with no clutch damaging friction modifiers.

    Filter, it's my understanding air filter oil is there to enhance the function of the foam, not to clean it. I wash mine with warm water, then user filter oil so it'll grab the dust particles better. Just don't over oil it, bikes have been known to burn to the ground that way...
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  6. #21
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    The bike shop will have several brands of oil, just choose one that says its for 2 stroke g.box & you'll be fine.

    If the filter gets dirty the dirt you wash away with a solvent, petrol comes to mind, but must use gloves. I just use a $1 polyethene squirty bottle & spread oil over the foam like one used to do with a squeezey Bear honey bottle, then kneed it in & redo till you'r happy its covered all of it - but not so much that its dripping or anything like that.

    Supercheap will carry Castrol airfilter oil for under $12, stop pissing around. They'll have Silcolene gear oil too, both are good options, or just visit your local bike shop.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #22
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    26th February 2010 - 19:35
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    Question about Carburetor

    So iv'e cleaned out the carb, reassembled it, and started up the TS. The TS runs, but the carb is leaking out petrol out of the overflow pipe. Did I do something wrong?...

  8. #23
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    1st September 2007 - 21:01
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    A sticking float. Sometimes a tap on the fuel bowel with a screwdriver/Adjustable crescent will stop it. At worst you may need to take the fuel bowel off again and check the action of the float.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  9. #24
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    Does it leak only while running? If so does the bike have a vacuum activated petcock? If yes or no to both the it'll almost certainly be as FJRider described.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    Does it leak only while running? If so does the bike have a vacuum activated petcock? If yes or no to both the it'll almost certainly be as FJRider described.
    I only noticed it leaking after I stopped the TS, I'm not sure whether or not it has a vacuum activated petcock. I will check the floats as FJRider suggested, I suspect that might be it because I wasn't 100% sure how the pin was supposed to be inserted. I will have to check over the manual again.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matariki View Post
    I only noticed it leaking after I stopped the TS, I'm not sure whether or not it has a vacuum activated petcock. I will check the floats as FJRider suggested, I suspect that might be it because I wasn't 100% sure how the pin was supposed to be inserted. I will have to check over the manual again.
    It's earlier incarnations didn't have vacuum petcocks. Easy to tell, if it's got more than one tube connected to the petcock it's vacuum activated.

    Good job stripping the carb, was much dirt in there? Not sure what retains the wee pin on that carb but it's not difficult to bend the float arms, making the float level wrong. You need to find out how to assemble the float correctly and THEN check the float level, correcting it if req'd.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  12. #27
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    And unlike my friend back in the day, insert the float needle with the pointy end in the hole. he put the springy end in the hole & somehow it almost worked.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    It's earlier incarnations didn't have vacuum petcocks. Easy to tell, if it's got more than one tube connected to the petcock it's vacuum activated.

    Good job stripping the carb, was much dirt in there? Not sure what retains the wee pin on that carb but it's not difficult to bend the float arms, making the float level wrong. You need to find out how to assemble the float correctly and THEN check the float level, correcting it if req'd.
    The carb was pretty clean when I opened it up, there was a little bit of dirt here and there so I cleaned it while it was open.
    Yes, the petcock is vacuum activated.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matariki View Post
    The carb was pretty clean when I opened it up, there was a little bit of dirt here and there so I cleaned it while it was open.
    Yes, the petcock is vacuum activated.
    A little bit of dirt in there can cause havoc.

    So, even though it only leaks when it's running you need to sort it out. Have to remove the bowl, figure out how to remove and reinstall the float, check the float level and put the bowl back on. Easy.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  15. #30
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    If it helps anyone, the carb in my TS is a Mikuni. Its a little different to the carb found in the older TS models, but it looks similar to this.

    Click image for larger version. 

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