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Thread: VTR Storm-Manual & Exhaust Mod

  1. #1
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    Blah VTR Storm-Manual & Exhaust Mod

    hey all,

    new here

    Just bought a 98 VTR Firestorm. Was wondering if anyone has a pdf of a manual they could email or one I could scan.

    Secondly. Mine has std exhausts and was wondering if I could carfully chisel or cut the centres out of the rear of the cans. Will this improve the performance or stuff it. Surely this must have been done B4 how does it sound.

    TIA

  2. #2
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    There was a link to a scanned workshop manual on here a while back, I'll try to search on it.

    There is a link here:

    http://www.gofastvideo.com/gallery/a...ce-manual.html

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Secondly. Mine has std exhausts and was wondering if I could carfully chisel or cut the centres out of the rear of the cans. Will this improve the performance or stuff it. Surely this must have been done B4 how does it sound.

    TIA
    Bad idea mate. If you want better sound and performance, save up for some proper cans
    To every man upon this earth
    Death cometh sooner or late
    And how can a man die better
    Than facing fearful odds
    For the ashes of his fathers
    And the temples of his Gods

  4. #4
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    Talking Exhaust

    yep would like to get a Scorpion set, but taped out after buying the bike as I still wanted to keep my Z1R I've ridden for 16 years. Nearly got hold of a 2nd set of original cans for the VTR so thought I'd make some mods. Was talkin to a mechanic from the Honda shop an he said the above Mod would be ok as long as I get it tuned after. Give better sound and won't hinder but improve performance????

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Just bought a 98 VTR Firestorm. Was wondering if anyone has a pdf of a manual they could email or one I could scan.


    Secondly. Mine has std exhausts and was wondering if I could carfully chisel or cut the centres out of the rear of the cans. Will this improve the performance or stuff it. Surely this must have been done B4 how does it sound.
    I had a 97 VTR up until November last year. I've got a PDF copy of the manual somewhere (on CD), as well as the parts fiche diagrams.

    My VTR had the end caps removed, plus the last bit of baffle tube, and it was SO loud that EVERYBODY would turn around to see what was coming down the road. I had new endcaps made which sounded much better, but still not as good as proper aftermarket slip-on cannisters. If you can't afford aftermarket, Coby in Hamilton will gut the standard cans, rebaffle them with a straight-through perforated core, then reweld them so they look stock, for much less than aftermarket cans will cost.

    If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask me. I was on many of the VTR forums, and had done a bit of work to my bike, like fitting braided brake lines, manual camchain tensioners, a new TPS, converting the airfilter to a Unifilter, replacing the R/R, lowering the gearing, etc etc.

    Oh - and welcome to the Kiwi Biker gargre.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Nearly got hold of a 2nd set of original cans for the VTR so thought I'd make some mods. Was talkin to a mechanic from the Honda shop an he said the above Mod would be ok as long as I get it tuned after. Give better sound and won't hinder but improve performance????
    In that case, you could get the other cans modded, as explained. If you cut the end caps out, it does give a wee bit more performance at higher revs (and maybe less at low revs), but will run leaner, so you'll need to shim the main needles (easy to do).
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  7. #7
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    Sorry bung but that address won't let me download the zip file but I have emailed another guy on this forum who was saying he had one in pdf so see wat happens there. Thanks for the effort though!!

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    Post

    Has to go in for a tune so wanted to mod the cans B4 hand. I've built many an exhaust for my race kart (when I was racing that is) so I could cut through the Main outer weld on the outside end of the can and make a new straight through baffle then repack with some silent sport. But thought by simply taking the 30mm end resticter pipe and surround plate thats mounted inside the main 60mm chrome outer surround pipe might do the trick. That would leave the muffler completly intact but with a 60mm exit. I'm gonna gear down the front sprocket a tooth anyway so loosing a bit down low won't matter to much (I don't need to go 280K). But thought I'd join up and get some advice from you guys first. Want it to sound a bit gruuntier for the cold Kiwi but don't want it to go like crap!!

    Viffer Could you dig out that manual on cd an make a copy, be happy to pay for cd and postage

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Viffer Could you dig out that manual on cd an make a copy, be happy to pay for cd and postage
    Sure. PM me your address.
    As for the mufflers - if you get a 2" / 50mm holesaw then you can drill the end caps off, rip out the last baffletube and the other bits and pieces inside. Then if it's too loud, make a 'spud' of 51mm tube with a ~20mm tube in the middle, and a 'washer' between the two. Hard to explain, so here's some pix.
    One is Staintune's restrictor, which is similar to the two I had made, another is the "spud" in place (used high-temp silicon goop to stick it in), and the third is the zorst with the end cut out and a piece of 51mm perforated core (I tried this before having the 'spuds' made, and it quietened it down a bit, but not much. The muffler shop didn't understand what I wanted, so they sold me a bit of core to try. Then I went back with a diagram for the spuds, and they made them up for ~$60 for the pair, which is about the same as Staintune spuds cost, but the Staintune ones are stainless and have allen scres to fit them in.)

    Here's a site with info on the 'bafflectomy' :
    http://www.burniemorgan.com/motorcyc...ml#bafflectomy
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    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Sorry bung but that address won't let me download the zip file but I have emailed another guy on this forum who was saying he had one in pdf so see wat happens there. Thanks for the effort though!!
    If you click on the picture of the manual - next page

    Where it says "click here to watch video"

    Right click on that, and pick save as...

  11. #11
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    eeww looks nasty with the open end and Baffles visible, don't want it to look like that! But the spud mod looks ok. can make that. Could vary the 51mm pipe size to control noise level aswell. Make a nice inner spud, paint it black an slip it in. Thanks 4 that gives me some good ideas!

    Got a price for a scorpion 1 grand so might have a play with this while looking out for a second hand Two brothers or scorpion. Not convinced a 6k bike is worth spending a grand on.

  12. #12
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    Thanks bung I did that all worked fine but I have dail up so I'll set it going B4 bed and let it download over night hehe 7 hrs slingshot won't be happy!

  13. #13
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    Red face

    by the way Vifferman nice grey pipe. Must be running well. Ultimate 98 was the best thing that happened for my Z1r. yet to try the VFR on it

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    eeww looks nasty with the open end and Baffles visible,
    Yes, it does - very agricultural.
    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    But the spud mod looks ok. can make that. Could vary the 51mm pipe size to control noise level aswell. Make a nice inner spud, paint it black an slip it in. Thanks 4 that gives me some good ideas!
    I made the 51mm pipe the same length as the end bit of the muffler (about 60mm, if I recall). The inner pipe started out about 100mm long, and I kept cutting it off until it sounded right, which ended up being flush with the other pipe, as it turned out. I've done the same thing with the Satantune on the VFR - I cut the inner pipe off, then a bit more, then ended up cutting it all off level with the other one, and ground it smooth.
    The best way to do it, I reckon, is what Coby do: cut it around the seam, gut it completely, re-core it, then reweld it and polish up the weld.
    If you look at virtually ALL the aftermarket pipes, they're just a piece of perforated core, with stainless steel or fibreglass wool wrapped around it. Sometimes they have a slight restriction towards the header end, to give the reflected sound/pressure wave required for effective low-end running, but that's about it.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    by the way Vifferman nice grey pipe. Must be running well. Ultimate 98 was the best thing that happened for my Z1r. yet to try the VFR on it
    The VTR ran OK on 91 (better than on higher octane petrol), but the VFR pinks when it's hot, so I run it on 98 in the summer, and a mixture of 91 and 98 during colder weather, as the 98 is harder to start on.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


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