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Thread: VTR Storm-Manual & Exhaust Mod

  1. #16
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    exhuast

    What diameter inner did you make. The std one is approx 30mm I saw one on the net that looked about 40mm. I thought I'd make 2 sets one of each and see how they sounded. The outer 51mm is a fixed size of course to fit inside the muffler end.

    also

    When said you left the inner 100mm long and cut it back I imagine you meant the inner pipe that sticks out the end of the muffler. The question is did you leave any of the inner poking into the muffler at all or did the spud start flat on the inside. I only ask this as one of the ones in the pics looks like it has a flared bit going inside. I could actuallly weld a long perf bit on so it slides all the way to the front end when fitting the spud. But I'll try the end spud thing first.

    The second pic looks very tidy thats what I'm aiming at.

    Jeepers that was as clear as mud!!!!!

  2. #17
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    Hi Reckless, i've just been sent a copy of a PDF manual on cd from Nakid, I can copy it if you want, just PM me with your address.

    and Welcome to KB

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    What diameter inner did you make. The std one is approx 30mm I saw one on the net that looked about 40mm. I thought I'd make 2 one of each and see how they sounded. The outer 51mm is a fixed size of course to fit inside the muffler end.
    Dunno, Reckless. At a guess, 25mm? Maybe as much as 30.

    Quote Originally Posted by That Reckless Chap
    When said you left the inner 100mm long and cut it back I imagine you meant the inner pipe that sticks out the end of the muffler. The question is did you leave any of the inner poking into the muffler at all or did the spud start flat on the inside. I only ask this as one of the ones in the pics looks like it has a flared bit going inside. I could actuallly weld a long perf bit on so it slides all the way to the front end when fitting the spud. But I'll try the end spud thing first.
    The extra length went inside the muffler, with the inner/outer pipes more or less flush at the outside end.
    The nice-looking one in the pics is the factory Staintune one, and yes, it is flared at the end. This helps performance, I guess.
    For both the spuds I made for the VTR, and the proper spud I bought from Staintune for my VFR, I cut the inner pipe off flush with the outer pipe, on the part that goes inside the muffler, then ground it down on my bench grinder and smoothed the inside edges for a better flow.
    How long you let the inner pipe extend into the muffler, and the diameter of it, will both determine how loud it is. For example, the Staintune on the VFR with the standard spud in, is about as loud as a standard Honda muffler (~92-94dBA). With the spud cut as described, it's probably over 100. With no spud, it's around 104 or more, and probably would be illegal even for racing.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  4. #19
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    Bloody Great Mate your a wealth of info.

    I'll go to an exhuast place and get some tube 2morrow and have a fiddle over the weekend. Might start with an inner same dia as std and try that first, cut it flush inside as you describe. If I want it louder or don't like the sound I'll try a 40mm inner. Don't want it to sound silly so I'm picking the 30 will be ok.

    The only other issue I have is with the clutch its bloody tricky an I stall it every now and then. The old Z1R had a little carb flat spot you could ride around from idle but this thing starts engaging at one point then another 1/4 of an inch later you have it all. Like a switch. Changed the fluid but no difference. Have to change the engine oil as well as the previous owner told me he put car 20w 50 in so that might make a big difference. Also read your review about other clutch springs so have a way to go here. But I'm to scared to give it a fist full from a standing start in case it kicks me in the arse. Goes like stink once you get the thing engaged though.

    Don't get me wrong this is a nice bike just a few teething issues.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    The only other issue I have is with the clutch its bloody tricky an I stall it every now and then.
    Firestorm clutches are either fine, or not.
    Mine didn't like being slipped under power (i.e., no racing starts!) If I tried to take off hard, it would slip, squeal, bite, slip, etc. etc. This can be fixed by fitting new springs, or better still, Barnett springs.
    The other probelm they have is the clutch slave cylinder leaking and/or getting too hot. You can tell if it's doing this, as the clutch fluid goes dark quickly. Easy to fix - just take the cover off, clean the cylinder out, and preferably put a new seal kit in. Also clean and lightly grease (with silicon grease) the clutch throw rod.
    When you're putting it back together, be careful to get the rod in properly, and the cover + assembly located properly. If not, you'll have to bleed the hell out of the clutch otherwise it won't work.

    Have you got braided brake lines on your 'Storm?
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  6. #21
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    This one does a wee squeal or graunch than bites like hell. And its like you've only let it out another mm or so damn hard to get used to. I'll definatly need to get ot the bottom of it. Although Mike from Mt Eden M/C didn't have a prob with it, but has been saying the engine oil the guy has just put in it won't help at all. Shit he's been great to me, set up the suspension etc, heaps of help B4 I bought it, an he new I wasn't buying off him. Mind you I'm a real Kwaka man but they don't do a sport twin.

    No braded lines yet but it is on the list, only had it 3 days. And I'm not pushing it hard enough yet to out do the std brakes. Am gonna make the exhaust spuds first so I can get the valve shims, carbs and a tune done. See if an oil change helps the clutch, if not tackle clutch first. Need to get it riding nice. Then move onto Gearing, brakes/lines, double bubble etc.

    Give me a month or so and I'll have it sorted!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    hey all,

    Secondly. Mine has std exhausts and was wondering if I could carfully chisel or cut the centres out of the rear of the cans. Will this improve the performance or stuff it. Surely this must have been done B4 how does it sound.
    Took me 5mins to remove the rear baffle.

    The rear plate is only 2mm thick. I used acetylene plant to cut around the outside.

    Centre pipe is spot welded to a baffle in the middle of the muffler. I used a hammer and solid round bar to break the weld, only takes about two hits.

    The noise level is not to offensive, gives a nice deep note.

  8. #23
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    Wink

    Thanks Teflon

    I have done the removal. I have a gas plant but didn't want to risk discolouring the can and all the shit going inside from the cutting. So used a sharpened fine screw driver to chisel around the outside. Left a nice tidy lip for the new spud to fit back into. Then wiggled it till the welds broke. But the Baffle was a real shit to get out. Had to put a bar up inside it, clamp it to it then clamp my big slide hammer to it.
    Went for a ride but its to loud don't like the Braka braka sound. So going to experiment with different size outlet pipes till I get it sounding deep.

    I've taken pics all the way through so if its possible might be able to post on here some where????

    By the way an oil change and adding some silicaoil additive has made the clutch 100% better.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    By the way an oil change and adding some silicaoil additive has made the clutch 100% better.
    I've been using that additive for the last 4 years (orignally named Mecacyl?). I have 123,000 on the clock now, motor still feels strong.

    Have you made a 5mm spacer for the rear yet?, heres a link anyway.

    http://folk.uio.no/joakimt/vtr/specs.html

  10. #25
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    Haven't made the spacer for the rear yet still workin through the immediate issues. I'll get to that when I start fine tuning the thing. Thanks for the site address most helpful.
    But things are starting to come right. I'm very pleased the clutch is better! Made the spuds for the ends of the exhausts 2day using the old 30mm inner pipes I took out. Its sounds ok but its not where I want it. Wouldn't mind it being a bit louder but it has to be deeper with not so much of an edge. Got some more ideas to try 2morrow. I'll go to a 40mm inner pipe and leave some inside the can. Then a good tune and try and attack the gearing, but need to see if the tune gives me anymore Horse power. I'm still not overly impressed with the VTR the old Z1R I have must still be a bit of a grunter in a straight line even compared to 2days bikes. Mind you it is 1100 instead of 1000.

    One thing at a time or you never know where you are.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    I'm still not overly impressed with the VTR the old Z1R I have must still be a bit of a grunter in a straight line even compared to 2days bikes. Mind you it is 1100 instead of 1000.
    If you ride the VTR like a four you'll be disapointed. I find theres not much point reving to redline, i change up around 7 or 8.

    My old FZR had about 130hp at the rear. 200k plus it would leave the VTR for dead, but the VTR is much more fun to ride.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    hey all,

    new here

    Just bought a 98 VTR Firestorm. Was wondering if anyone has a pdf of a manual they could email or one I could scan.

    Secondly. Mine has std exhausts and was wondering if I could carfully chisel or cut the centres out of the rear of the cans. Will this improve the performance or stuff it. Surely this must have been done B4 how does it sound.

    TIA
    std exhausts dont touch them you may catch some thing std (sexualy transmited desizz hahaahahaha
    i love evry one just some more than others

  13. #28
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    Thumbs up

    yes Teflon,
    Maybe I was expecting to be blown away getting onto a late model bike after riding the Z1r for so long. The Z is in excellent cond and goes as good if not better than new so still produces alot of power. The Vtr is all round hugely better in all repects except staight line speed. Although it is entirely possible that it is alot quicker but just does it much easier. It is a bike I am feeling more and more at home on and liking better each time I ride it (only had it 6 days). It is probably an expectation thing aswell, maybe I was expecting the newer bike to make the old Z seem like an old rattler but of course the Z was a great bike in its day! I'm just one of those guys that want it to be the best it can be. Hence my questions taking advantage of the past and present experiance on Kiwibiker.

    Got the cans sounding as good as I can for a conversion type project. They now sound deep and rich. Ended up with quite large diameter inners that went into the cans about 130mm. Quite pleased now can get it tuned and onto the next thing.

    I can get together a Baffelectony project thingy in MS word if there's someone to post or convert it to html. As took pics all the way through. If anyone is interested that is.

  14. #29
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    Just put the finishing touches to my Baffelectomy. I think it looks and sounds as good as you can get without buying a Scorpion or 2 bros etc. Infact I'm happy with the deep sound.

    One thing all you VTR owners might like to check on is that I took the R/H (sitting in the seat) pipe off and was quite shocked to see the pipe from the front cylinder pushed so far into the Y section that it had cut the flow to the R/h muffler buy 1/2 or more. Very poor, no wonder after market exhausts go so well if that is std. I got the gas torch and heated up the end inside the y and flared it out against the outer wall of the y join but it was restricting the flow to the left can by at least 1/2. Should breath a bit better now, waiste of time carrying two mufflers round if your only gonna use 1/2 or less of the R/H one???.

    Maybe you VTR guys wanna whip the R/H can off and check its only 10 mins easy job.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reckless
    Just put the finishing touches to my Baffelectomy. I think it looks and sounds as good as you can get without buying a Scorpion or 2 bros etc. Infact I'm happy with the deep sound.

    One thing all you VTR owners might like to check on is that I took the R/H (sitting in the seat) pipe off and was quite shocked to see the pipe from the front cylinder pushed so far into the Y section that it had cut the flow to the R/h muffler buy 1/2 or more. Very poor, no wonder after market exhausts go so well if that is std. I got the gas torch and heated up the end inside the y and flared it out against the outer wall of the y join but it was restricting the flow to the left can by at least 1/2. Should breath a bit better now, waiste of time carrying two mufflers round if your only gonna use 1/2 or less of the R/H one???.

    Maybe you VTR guys wanna whip the R/H can off and check its only 10 mins easy job.
    Did it change the sound?


    I've read GSXR1000 00 to 02, front brake calipers bolt straight on. Looks like a cheap easy upgrade to me.

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