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Thread: Greasing threads

  1. #1
    Join Date
    21st May 2010 - 09:18
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    Greasing threads

    I am putting a set of CBR250 brake calipers back together, and was just wondering about greasing threads on the pad pins, caliper bolts etc.

    I usually put a little grease on the threads of bolts so they are easier to remove in future, just not sure this is a great idea on brakes?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    23rd February 2007 - 08:47
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    Good idea-use proper copper grease. Torque to specs carefully.

  3. #3
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    1st May 2011 - 12:35
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    I use a stuff called "Omega" is a high temp anti seize compound..
    used on boilers etc... it also stop the reaction between disimular metals..
    every bolt I have out on my bikes "frame/brakes/motor" & car has it on it..
    Its NOT cheap... It was donated by work ...

    but yer can go for something like this.....
    http://www.probikekit.com/nz/finish-...mbly-lube.html
    yer use very little on a bolt..container that size will last the rest of yer life most lightly..
    Pete

    90% of all Harleys built are still on the road... The other 10% made it back home...
    Ducati... Makeing riders into mechaincs since 1964...

  4. #4
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    21st May 2010 - 09:18
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    Cheers guys, I was a little unsure if I should grease the threads or locktite them!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    25th April 2004 - 12:00
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    I personally wouldn't grease the caliper bolts. It affects tourque figures dramatically. There are separate charts for dry and lubricated tourquing of fastners in industry. There will be condsiderably more tension on a bolt at the same torque if it's lubricated. I've never seen a manual of any kind that suggests greasing caliper mounting bolts. That's my opinion on the matter anyway.
    Do us all a favour, by bringing yourself up to speed, before pulling onto the motorway.

  6. #6
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    27th February 2005 - 08:47
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    Every manual i have read states grease to be applied to caliper mounting bolts, especialy radial mounted calipers. They have torque figures, and im guessing since they wrote the manual they would have allowed for the grease factor.

    But ive only read a couple of manuals, and i had to get help from a grownup, and it is the internet, and i am slightly retarded and dont know anything about motorcycles, so im probably lying.

  7. #7
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy900 View Post
    Cheers guys, I was a little unsure if I should grease the threads or locktite them!
    Use Loctite, blue (medium strength threadlocker, 263?), on the mounting and halve bolts, and just a little copper grease on the pad pin threads and between the piston face / shim and the shim/pad. No other lubrication is required for the bolts, the Loctite will do that.

  8. #8
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    25th April 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Every manual i have read states grease to be applied to caliper mounting bolts, especialy radial mounted calipers. They have torque figures, and im guessing since they wrote the manual they would have allowed for the grease factor.

    But ive only read a couple of manuals, and i had to get help from a grownup, and it is the internet, and i am slightly retarded and dont know anything about motorcycles, so im probably lying.
    Just stating my experiences. It would appear some manuals do and some don't mention greasing the mounting bolts. It would probably pay to check the manual for the bike being worked on I guess.
    Do us all a favour, by bringing yourself up to speed, before pulling onto the motorway.

  9. #9
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    i usecopper anti seize for shit i don't want to stick (exhaust shit sticks anyway) and loctite (red shit) for shit i don't want to move, and i'm the most badass motherfucker around here.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    23rd February 2007 - 08:47
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    There appears to be a lot of debate re greasing threads. My feeling is that greasing threads with a low torque value is a good idea. I learned the hard way recently when a non-lubed caliper pin siezed in the housing. MESSY job sorting that......

  11. #11
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    21st May 2010 - 09:18
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    Thanks all.
    I have downloaded a chart of torque settings for the bike and they advise using locking agent on the caliper bolts.

    I will use brake/rubber grease on the piston seals, copper grease on the backs of the pads, the pad pins, pad pin threads, pin cap screws, and blue locktite on the caliper bolts.

    I used to just use bearing grease on bolts, but since I have now bought a tube of copper grease it should last me the rest of my lifetime, so I shall look forward to easy to remove bolts well into my old age

    And SVboy I feel your pain there, one of the pin cap screws was a real pain in the arse to get loose. I had to use an impact driver which managed to leave an impression on the screw slot. It's still useable but I would prefer it to be 100%. Hopefully next time I change the pads it will be a lot easier.

  12. #12
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    12th April 2006 - 18:44
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    Car mechanics don't like copperslip / copper grease as it grimes up and hardens after time but personally I love it. I think it is fine if you regualarly fiddle with your machine. It is also excellent against heat and something in me always thinks grease will melt and get on the pads (it doesn't). Everytime I pull it apart it is easy and everything slips like it should. Love the stuff. A small tube lasts for years.
    "May all your traffic lights be green and none of your curves have oncoming semis in them." Rocky, American Biker.
    "Those that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin, 18th C.

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