Tricky project - 1983 honda vf750s

[actungbaby]

yeah I emailed them for some prices and part list for the bike and Malcolm emailed me back. seemed very helpful.

but with what I've found over the last couple of days I've decided that i'm definitely not aiming to use all OEM parts and keep it original, that's just going to restrict me too much and cost a lot more.

I mean 1 stock used turn signal for the bike will cost me $70 from econo and I can get a whole set of 4 custom part for less than US$15 on the net.

Naaaa this an old unloved bike, heck if had been looked after and was in good condition I'd get it standard parts but it's a hunk of junk. Restoring it close to original is a pipe dream.

my main goal now is to get it working reliable and safe then get it looking ok using whatever parts I can get rather than originals.

also thinking I need to make inspecting the cam a priority, if it has that issue it may not even be worth working on I dunno.

Malcom good guy dealt with him for years i geeting cam for vt 500 from him 90.00 very good price

didto guy from honda dealer gave me advice to see malcom for parts for older hondas

check ebay get them get them there get them there , get qoute from honda dealer here

and malcom usually sell u if got them second hand parts half the cost or orginals as a guide.

got xr 200 suspension caps half the cost which very happy with.

[Larksea]

after more work trying to get it started i've found the front two plugs are not firing and I've ruled out the plugs and the cables, resistance test on the coil suggests it's ok. getting 3.8 ohm

worth checking something else or do I need another coil?

[actungbaby]

well I actually tried to turn it over, the start button does not work but I shorted the starter wires. unfortunately it just clicks continuously. wondered if the battery was flat so put it on the charger and it's actually fully charged so that's strike 2

I've seen the econohonda site before but their 2009 parts list put me off contacting them

alarm? that's interesting

Just ring him that list is old yes if its clicking need new battery, what i do is jump it of a car or

another bike no point getting new battery if bike going sit there becase u got save up for parts get engine going

sounds like ur on to mate good .. sure u can do the bike take your time and going things 3 or 4 times make sure things are right. u got a book for it might have one in chch library

again ebay sell them and some on tm also brought both places am xpert cause had to be

in old honda mind u am old model myself.

just keep asking adivice from anyone u can i got car places anywhere

all best dude hope goldern for you

[actungbaby]

If it covers ALL parts of YOUR (specific) model ... good.




It only needs a "Working" speedometer to be legal. NOT an accurate one. Think temporary (borrowed ??) fitting to gain legality.

And ... Odometers record distance traveled ... NOT speed. And as such ... not required for WoF.

great advice do everthing as min to get it legal and then when paases u can decide after few rides

what u prepared to spend and how long u keep it for if you did

[actungbaby]

this is the book, looks pretty good to me

http://www.haynes.com/products/?sear...+Sabre&x=6&y=9


i do have one pic, just chucked in the garage took the seat off, not a good pic, looks worse than it is.

Attachment 281482

all I've done since is pull the tank, side panels and front Gard off and given it a bit of a clean up

Can also the the back tire is is goneburger, I think it was used for a few burnouts in it's past life. Front tyre looks good but yeah, the front brakes are in a cardboard box with what I think are the air intake/filter covers

also a pain that the ignition switch/key are not original so they dont match the seat/helmet-lock/tank lock and also there is another key lock on a metal box on this left side which I'm not sure about...

gee alot better than i thought be looks good looks very promising

[FJRider]

after more work trying to get it started i've found the front two plugs are not firing and I've ruled out the plugs and the cables, resistance test on the coil suggests it's ok. getting 3.8 ohm

worth checking something else or do I need another coil?

The front two plugs should be wired from two different coils. Usually plugs 1 & 3 ... 2 & 4 have supply from their own coil. Both front plugs not getting spark suggests other issues.

But you can swap coils and see if the problem follows the change.

[actungbaby]

My first port of call for parts would be econohonda, I have always had really good service from them.

Laava says get a sand blasting cabinet, he's on to it with that. They rule. I need one

how much are they mate to buy i mean

[actungbaby]

I dont disagree, It's not a classic and I actually think this model with the orange stripes is fugly

but, I did find this pic of what looks like pretty much the exact same model in black with gold trim which does look pretty cool, and is what I think I am going to aim to replicate.

Attachment 281500

Was called sabre in usa was state the art at the time being v four water cooled

I actually like the look of them guy here bike looks mean think wants sell t to at some stage

i have taken pics of it i drive there so i can get some more if you want engine looks cool

[actungbaby]

awfull? as in a personal preferance to there looks or mecanical? The Saber never had any issues what so ever, the R as we all should know had oil feed issues to the head, causing cam failer...


They are bloody classics LOL awesome machinery, I dont recall seeing the strip painted model new in NZ and NZ new were not called Sabers. Some call the TX650 a classic, yet it was less relible that a Triumph of the day...

maybe usa import my vfr 750 is mind u speedo be in miles not kms

[actungbaby]

As Laava says, the bike will only ever be worth anything if it's kept as original as possible.

As BMWST says, they were never a wonderful bike from new.

Replacing parts that don't need replacing is likely to be throwing good money away on bad.

If you're not intending to do any motor work, forget the compression test. Sometimes ignorance can truly be bliss.

yes so true if runs well dont worry just get fresh oil in before start her and change bikes coolant

fater u know its ruuning okay first things did on mine make sure get good anti freeze with anti rust

some have bikes ones seem bit over priced sure car ones bee fine too mix it in container of water

[Larksea]

I don't really care or I'm not thinking about resale value or keeping it original

I want to get it started and running and over time get it running really well or as best I can.

And aesthetically create something I personally think looks good.

Goal #1 is to learn from the experience. I've learned a tone already.

[Larksea]

the numbers are starting to piss me off

check the ignition coils and I get 3.5 ohm primary and 14.5k ohms secondary

Haynes manual I got int the mail today saays 2.8 pri and 13.6-15.5 sec

found a copy of the page when googling:

http://xn--80azbq.xn--p1ai/failo/magna/ignition.pdf

does the 3.5 ohms I'm getting mean they are screwed? or is it ok? I have a feeling it's ok I dont know how much to trust this haynes book.

[Larksea]

ok now I find this:

http://grimcyclesalvage.com/product_...il-p-2390#pic1

basically the exact same part I have and it's 3.5 ohms

for now I'm going to assume mine are good.

need to next figure out where the connectors on the coils go back to, haven't been able to confirm anything with the multimeter

[ducatilover]

Your coil wiring will go to the cdi, but will be going through the main loom.
Check for power across the terminals when cranking

[Larksea]

yip that's what I thought but I could not get a connection to anything at the CDI with the multimeter

thinking about taking the wraps off the loom and tracing the cables all the way back, but will hold off for now. Working on some other stuff for now.

I pulled the carbs out and was surprised to find they are as clean as a nuns cooch. Just some surface rust from lack of use. Was a bit worried I didn't find any fuel in them as I had put fuel in the tank and turned the fuel on and turned it over a fair bit trying to start it. Should I have to pre-fill the carburetor? Or should they basically full up when turning the fuel on? Maybe I need to do more of a clean.