RG - Extensive clean

**malcy25** · 22nd December 2013, 11:08

Originally Posted by Arronduke

It is not just the back end that's is causing issues, well the front end is too.

Speedo drive is pissing me off, the RG one is no good, outside diameter is too big and the speedo drive forks are too wide. It does not fit.
Got a GSX600 jobby and spacing and everything is perfect, tighten up the axle and its good.
except at the cable input end in to the speedo drive is not the same as the RG... really...really!

yep the Rg and GSX speedo cable drive, end link up are different to the driver.

So I need a custom built cable, RG one end and GSX600 at the other end.

Options appreciated.
And photos to follow ... (tomorrow)

talk to the team at www.pyramid-parts.com they are in Chch and do lots of cables (Clutch, speedo, tacho etc)

**Arronduke** · 14th February 2014, 20:57

Originally Posted by malcy25

talk to the team at www.pyramid-parts.com they are in Chch and do lots of cables (Clutch, speedo, tacho etc)

Will do and thanks for the info.

**Arronduke** · 14th February 2014, 21:33

OK after what seems like a life time ago, my new chain and sprockets are here.
Time to fit them and try and line up the sprockets. Sounds easy as....

Cant argue it looks good, but are the sprockets lining up?

looking mint...

But is it?

Don't think so.. might be beer eyes but that does not look good to me.

While women may have one flap hanging longer than the other they don't seem to walk funny or wear out their undies quickly, but run a chain like this and its going to fuck out fast. Don't like that idea after what this set up cost. If the flap problems starts to be a problem they just move to crouch-less... Cant see a RG with a shaft drive.

getting closer but I think 1mm - 2mm needs to be removed from the left hand spacer.
will do this next week.

Oh and to add I hate dealing with electroplating companies there threat you like shit, as soon as you say bike or car parts.
I have a bead blaster and am going to add a home electroplating system to my shed... yea.
no more having to mix 1000 bolts to get the job done, plate as you need it done.

Q: What tastes good on pizza but not on pussy?
A: Crust!

**Drew** · 15th February 2014, 08:16

Sprocket needs to go right to my eye.

Is the wheel perfectly straight?

**Arronduke** · 15th February 2014, 12:39

Which sprocket?

What is the best way to line this thing up?
What about getting the wheel perfectly straight?

**Drew** · 15th February 2014, 12:45

Originally Posted by Arronduke

Which sprocket?

What is the best way to line this thing up?
What about getting the wheel perfectly straight?

A new chain on there, and eye ball down it. Then spin the wheel and repeat is how I've done it when putting different motors into stuff.

Wheel needs to be straight according to the adjustment marks at least, before you do that though.

You can see surprisingly small measurements by eye, far smaller than the required tolerance for sprocket alignment.

Ya have to remember how much the bike flexes when being ridding, particularly something as old school light weight as an RG500. The chain doesn't get fucked quicker on one that gets raped, compared to one that is ridden by a bitch. So long as it's maintained like.

**Arronduke** · 18th February 2014, 21:28

Right Drew it was done by eye, I agree how good the eye ball is, being using it for many years now. Interest to see how close I was.

Its has to be right.
As Drew said centre the wheel best you can, I did if by measuring the axle bolt to the end of swingarm , end of the bolts (no good). In the end I got a number equal on both sides that mean FA.
Next measure the wheel rim to centre of swingarm... example attached but I got it equal and moved on from there.

40.8 to 44.07
3.27 mm / 2 = 1.6mm from centre.

3.27/2= 1.6+ 40.8 = 42.40mm

left hand spacer = 13.50mm - 1.6 = 11.9
12mm lets be real.

need to remove and make left hand spacer 12mm

Yes I got heaps of spacers / washers and drilled them out on the lathe, hit them with a grinder to remove the bur's, then pressed them flat with the press to get as close as I can.

next I decided to search the net, rulers others used. Cant fit a ruler so I thought laser, only one I had was for measuring the temp in my piazza oven. Tape the trigger and bingo laser.

Move wheel to the left, add chain... numbers all starting to work.

quite pleased. Only two beers, (yea right) ..... could not have done this on a Friday night... All the calculator batteries in the house are usually flat on a Friday night....other wise peace of cake... no pun intended.

But I think I will move both sprockets to the right, add new chain guide and I think w will be looking good.

**Arronduke** · 19th February 2014, 19:56

Still not 100% happy.

Wheel is square and centralised, chain looks good but the sprocket looks to close to the swingarm.
Looking at the chain loading on to the sprocket, the chain is hugging to one side of the sprocket, meaning its not central. Looks like the rear sprocket needs to go one direction and the chain is hitting the side of the sprocket making it look like it needs to go right back to where it came from. Bugger.

Means machining the sprocket carrier more. Every one said 11mm.... I smell a dirty rat..
Before I do root or fuck any thing lets have a close look. When you can smell a rat its best to take a step back.

Right could this be it?

Is the sprocket carrier located in the rear wheel as should? No idea but it does not look right.
The sprocket bolts are spaced out to take up the 11mm machined off the sprocket carrier, are they hitting the cushioning rubbers? stopping the carrier go all the way in. .
Are these washers stopping the carrier going in to the rear wheel, would make sense.

Have looked at this before when just placing the sprocket carrier on the wheel some time ago. Did not go all the way in then and that's with out those bolts.
So don't like my luck! But there maybe a mm or two here and that perfect.

Chain guard fits nice, its going to look stock but to the not so fucked they will see the mods.

**Drew** · 20th February 2014, 05:32

Take the sprocket carrier out of the wheel. Put a piece of blue tack on the side of the wheel bearing so that a small bit is on the inner race. Chuck the wheel in and do the axle up.

Take it all apart again, and see if the bluetac is squished to nothingness where the spacer from sprocket carrier sits against the wheel bearing inner race. If it is squished out completely, then it's mating up properly at the axle.

The only other thing to check after that, is that the bearing is seated home in the wheel, and the sprocket carrier. If the wheel bearing isn't seated, which will become obvious by the crush tube in the middle of the wheel will have side play, you will need to make new spacers again.

I would be tempted to make my spacers and shit, by taking the carrier spacer out of the carrier and assembling it all without the sprocket carrier there at all. Just so I could see that surfaces were touching.

**Arronduke** · 20th February 2014, 19:31

Originally Posted by Drew

Take the sprocket carrier out of the wheel. Put a piece of blue tack on the side of the wheel bearing so that a small bit is on the inner race. Chuck the wheel in and do the axle up.

Take it all apart again, and see if the bluetac is squished to nothingness where the spacer from sprocket carrier sits against the wheel bearing inner race. If it is squished out completely, then it's mating up properly at the axle.

The only other thing to check after that, is that the bearing is seated home in the wheel, and the sprocket carrier. If the wheel bearing isn't seated, which will become obvious by the crush tube in the middle of the wheel will have side play, you will need to make new spacers again.

I would be tempted to make my spacers and shit, by taking the carrier spacer out of the carrier and assembling it all without the sprocket carrier there at all. Just so I could see that surfaces were touching.

Drew, just read your post. I pulled the wheel out and the sprocket carrier and I had a spacer against the wheel but nothing pushing the sprocket carrier against the wheel. F up one.
Next removed the front sprocket and the bastard thing can go two ways.... turned it around so the writing was on the outside and its starting to look better.

Next move the rim right where it looks like it should be and everything is starting to line up. Wheel measures 41.5mm both sides of the swingarm, sprocket and chain are running in the middle... all good right! But NO the markings on the swingarm are miles out. Other wise its all good.

funny how the sprocket carrier now looks right. I will follow up on what sort of spacer I need to keep the sprocket carrier in place and put pressure on the rim.

trick for old bastards.

looking much better. What a pain in the ....

Not 100% happy yet, why are the swingarm markings out to make everything line up?

Anyway time for a beer for 10.

**Arronduke** · 20th February 2014, 19:36

Take the sprocket carrier out of the wheel. Put a piece of blue tack on the side of the wheel bearing so that a small bit is on the inner race. Chuck the wheel in and do the axle up.

Take it all apart again, and see if the bluetac is squished to nothingness where the spacer from sprocket carrier sits against the wheel bearing inner race. If it is squished out completely, then it's mating up properly at the axle.

Answer...... as I said there was no pressure holding the sprocket carrier in place.... ahhh
Pleased I did not rush in and machine and root everything, won't move forward until I am convinced its right.

**Drew** · 21st February 2014, 05:41

The bearing for the carrier goes in to it from the outside, then the stepped spacer goes into that from the inside. The outside spacer on the carrier side should be of an appropriate outside diameter to cover the inner stepped spacer, and the inner race of the carrier bearing. That is what locates the carrier and stops it being able to move away from the wheel.

Once that is sorted, you can start trying to line up your chain. By the sound of it, you're going to need to do a wheel alignment with a couple bits of string and a bit of fucking around first. Plumb down from the center of your headstock and put a mark on the table. Then plumb down from the center of the standard wheel and mark the table. Measure off an equal distance on either side of the marks and draw a line between them. Put in your new wheel, and plumb up at the front and rear of it. Presto, you know what way the wheel needs to go to be straight, and center.

**Arronduke** · 21st February 2014, 21:25

Rear wheel will wait, had friend, great engineer spend 30min on the rear wheel and he agrees it looking good.
Still there will be more work done here, as Mr Drew say... head stock etc. So let strip the rest off the bike.

so carbs are off and in to bags, and numbered.

do I split the carbs or soak / ultra sonic clean the as they are? they look to have screw you should not undo.. but I can and there is a gasket in there...
will post picture later...

I like to pull shit a part! NO PUN MEANT.

**Drew** · 22nd February 2014, 05:50

I wouldn't expect the slide covers need to come off. Bowls and jets would be the go though, since it's been sitting for a while.

**Arronduke** · 23rd April 2014, 19:12

Been broke but busy.
Wife seems to think there are more important things needed than bike parts.
You would have thought after all the training I have done this issue would not arise.

But it does... and it seems more training is required.

Enough ranting on... I am having a beer, dam fine one to I might add.

We all know the problem I seem to have lining up the new rear sprocket and the rim without FA references, to be honest its pissed me right off. Cant pull the engine etc until this slight inconvenience is sorted. I would have thought I would have had it sort reasonably quickly.

The eye is a good machine along with a few brain cells and it should be sorted. But it just pissed me off, small things told me I was off, I knew I was close but close enough?

This is the finished jig, bolts to the front sprocket. Everything square. I'm sure there are tolerances but it dam close. Closer than I could ever do any other way with out some major help.

It worked great. Big effort but worth it.

All bolts together nice and tight and square, add a 25/25 ali bar and lets start measuring.