ER650 cases

[Grumph]

While Devcon will do the job adequately, I'd check that the cases aren't distorted before you start. If the ham fisted yank has used that much force, there may have been a case screw or two still in - which could have distorted the cases.
Post Devcon, I'd recommend a very light rub on a flat abrasive surface. I use a piece of thick MDF with wet and dry glued to it.

[Yow Ling]

Seems like alot of work for one race !

[jellywrestler]

I think the issue here is some fuckwit thinks it's ok to pry cases apart with a screw driver. It's highly likely that said fuckwit will breed overspring. This is an unacceptable state of affairs.

Robert Taylor can help remove overspring

[HenryDorsetCase]

The thing with JB Weld is that the surfaces have to be clean and oil free or it doesnt work. Ive only used it twice, once successfully, once not, for that reason. Since they are apart, I'd be looking for the "weld it up, machine it flat" solution. I dont know who would do it but there must be people in your town or known in the racing community.

[codgyoleracer]

Dont trust any form of bog for a long term fix, listen to Scott.


Other alternative is to
1) Mill base back flat
2) Mill barrel until piston touches head
3) Mill piston

Repeat steps 1,2 & 3 until you need to remove a link from the cam chain to get any tension on it.

After doing the above, dont bother test running it, - just take it to the track and without warming it up thrash the snot out of it. What could possibly go wrong ?

[neil_cb125t]

Seems like alot of work for one race !

hahah this is to build a 85-90HP race motor for long term, these are replacement cases for a motor that threw a rod.... This is one out of 8 places that are damaged, the rest are the faces BETWEEN the cases, as in where the main bearings sit has had damage too.......

[neil_cb125t]

Dont trust any form of bog for a long term fix, listen to Scott.


Other alternative is to
1) Mill base back flat
2) Mill barrel until piston touches head
3) Mill piston

Repeat steps 1,2 & 3 until you need to remove a link from the cam chain to get any tension on it.

After doing the above, dont bother test running it, - just take it to the track and without warming it up thrash the snot out of it. What could possibly go wrong ?

Hey fella,

if only it was that easy - they damaged about 8 parts of the cases, the rest are on the faces where the cases bolt together, like where the main bearings sit.... think they are paperweights.

[Grumph]

The thing with JB Weld is that the surfaces have to be clean and oil free or it doesnt work. Ive only used it twice, once successfully, once not, for that reason. Since they are apart, I'd be looking for the "weld it up, machine it flat" solution. I dont know who would do it but there must be people in your town or known in the racing community.

Cold bogging is the only way guaranteed not to distort the cases. Machining back flat isn't an option as you alter bearing pinch dimensions. All you're trying to do is make them oil tight..the damage hasn't affected the case strength and they're dowelled anyway.
Degrease and bead blast the areas you're going to bog up, let it harden fully then as he said, flat mill file carefully...then final rub on wet & dry.

If it still leaks, put it in a sidecar....

[wayne]

maybe some quality rods ?

[neil_cb125t]

If some rough bastard didn't down shift when the engine was already spinning above the red line then there never would have been a need for new cases.

sorry, we were a second under the lap record so you could say I was trying..... stupid std rods....!!!

[neil_cb125t]

maybe some quality rods ?

yep big strong ones are on the way

[neil_cb125t]

Cold bogging is the only way guaranteed not to distort the cases. Machining back flat isn't an option as you alter bearing pinch dimensions. All you're trying to do is make them oil tight..the damage hasn't affected the case strength and they're dowelled anyway.
Degrease and bead blast the areas you're going to bog up, let it harden fully then as he said, flat mill file carefully...then final rub on wet & dry.

If it still leaks, put it in a sidecar....

hahahaha yeah, looking more like buying another F&*ken set is the way to go, funny i have paid for 3 sets of these in the last 2 years, one never arrived, one blew up and these ones are paper weights....DAMMIOT!

[NAR RG500]

sorry, we were a second under the lap record so you could say I was trying..... stupid std rods....!!!

Doesn't matter what rods you use if you down shift when the engines already over revving from the last shift mate! I would agree with Grumph on that one and repair the cases though. Another product you could use is Bellzona. If anyone at the base has anything to do with a gunsmith then they will have it. Super expensive and super good.

[Mental Trousers]

A slipper clutch is the friend of rough bastards everywhere.

[Madness]

Rapid Fix looks pretty good.
What say you?
Where get from?

Trade Tools have it. 23 Sydney Street Petone.