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Thread: Does your bike comply?

  1. #61
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    Someones gonna make a killing selling all this new gear, especially all the belly pans,,,,
    "That's rooted!! What's next??"

  2. #62
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    25th April 2007 - 23:40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mental Trousers View Post
    I'm glad to see the proposed rules on machine safety as I don't ever want to be that guy who stopped a meeting cos he covered the track in oil or whatever. Does anybodies bike already comply with all of the proposed rules?

    All rules - http://www.mnz.co.nz/regulations/rules/general-rules
    Full list of rule changes - http://www.mnz.co.nz/docs/default-so...e.pdf?sfvrsn=2

    Current rule 10.13


    Machine safety proposed changes.


    Yes. I always took this as being a no-brainer and did it anyway.



    Not yet. Will do soon.



    Yep.



    Yep



    Will do before my next race meeting



    Optional but I've got one fitted anyway
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...r+gaurd&_rdc=1



    Been looking for one of these for a while but I haven't found one that
    • doesn't involve drilling the swing arm
    • doesn't look retarded

    Anyone found any that fit those two criteria for a 2005 CBR600RR??
    Do fairings count as crash protection or do i need covers of kevlar type inside them too?.
    Had a high speed slide at terotonga 8 months ago and farings looked after everything well and didnt break at all.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobGassit View Post
    Someones gonna make a killing selling all this new gear, especially all the belly pans,,,,
    Yip,

    Glen at just fairings,Teed it up with him waaaaay before we even decided on the rule change,Un less its for a Ninja,Then you need to call me or try oversea's,That said I'm sure there are other options and most of the newer generation stuff available for the 6 hundies and Supers already have the enclosed Bellypans....Nice try at stirring shit all the same.But I was well aware that someody would and so I took a step back,Plus its a bastard of a job anyways LMFAO!!!

  4. #64
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    22.8.18
    All lateral engine cases containing oil or water and which could contact the ground during a crash, must be protected by a second cover made from composite materials, type carbon or Kevlar, or be fitted with heavy duty crash resistant end cases made from solid metal plates and or bars made from alloy or steel all must be resistant to sudden shock
    Reason: To reduce the incidence of oil or water left on the track following a crash
    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    Do fairings count as crash protection or do i need covers of kevlar type inside them too?.
    Had a high speed slide at terotonga 8 months ago and farings looked after everything well and didnt break at all.
    Fairings aren't an engine cover?
    Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem

    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mental Trousers View Post
    Fairings aren't an engine cover?
    well they cover the engine but the way i read the wording i thought the rule may have meant the second cover had to be attached to the area concerned.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    well thats going to be a complete bastard for alot of us classics guys but thems the rules.
    No it's not - 22.8 refers to the ROAD RACE CHAMPIONSHIPS....so unless and until Classics and Posties have a National Championship it doesn't apply there or at club level.

    If the intent was to apply it across all road racing it should have gone in Motorcycles Technical or as a separate rule in Section 22.

  7. #67
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    Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.

    That one's dumb, the rest make sense.

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.

    That one's dumb, the rest make sense.
    Over the years I have seen caliper bolts "fall out" of competitors machines. Bolts are only as good as the nut who is operating the Torque Wrench!!! Never say never, it will always bite you!!!
    My Signature is my Reg No.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.

    That one's dumb, the rest make sense.
    Agreed - if the idea is to keep them tight, you should use either #8 lockwire or studs with castellated nuts and splitpins or lock tabs.
    All lockwire tells you is, if it's broken, the bolt's moved, if it hasn't it's still tight.

    when I started, a lot of the experienced guys used copper wire - they knew it was just an indicator if the bolt had moved. If it's now compulsory to wire, I'll use copper again.

    The last thing we need in NZ is to go like the US - have a look at the AMA and Vintage race rules on lockwiring....anal or what ?

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy View Post
    Bwahahaha,Already in the straightjacket,They locked me in it before they told me I was the new commissioner,Apparently it doesn't get unlocked until my term is over.
    Is that what they told you? Ah ha...riiiight...
    Diarrhoea is hereditary - it runs in your jeans

    If my nose was running money, I'd blow it all on you...

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.

    That one's dumb, the rest make sense.
    I agree with Drew on this, I have done thousands of oil changes (road going) and have never seen a sump bung come loose........seen a couple left loose. I'm more of a fan of locktite or a torque wrench.......soon bikes will be fully lock wired to keep dumb people safe.

    but rules are rules and comply we will.


    Its harder to lose weight than gain horsepower.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    No it's not - 22.8 refers to the ROAD RACE CHAMPIONSHIPS....so unless and until Classics and Posties have a National Championship it doesn't apply there or at club level.

    If the intent was to apply it across all road racing it should have gone in Motorcycles Technical or as a separate rule in Section 22.
    Bloody hell your quick.
    I only posted that and then edited it about 5 seconds later.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buddha#81 View Post
    I agree with Drew on this, I have done thousands of oil changes (road going) and have never seen a sump bung come loose........seen a couple left loose. I'm more of a fan of locktite or a torque wrench.......soon bikes will be fully lock wired to keep dumb people safe.

    but rules are rules and comply we will.
    Im a fan of torque wrenches too and use it all the time on the bike.
    The numpty that changed the oil on thr fzr i just bought could have used one on yje oil bung- could have saved my next job of removing the exaust and sump.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.

    That one's dumb, the rest make sense.
    I believe the PROPOSED rule change say's,Lockwired or pinned in the tightened position,IE If you were to drill through the bolthead and insert an "R" clip through the hole that would prevent the bolthead from turning,That would be acceptable.

    Personally,I always take the time to lockwire mine as to me it's a no brainer.

  15. #75
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    30th November 2008 - 09:12
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    Or as i do with the fairing stay R clips and the front/rear axle R clips.......... wire the clip to each other or the bike at the top. Then you dont lose clip when you remove it and you dont have to keep rewiring each time you undo it. Just simply slide the clip the the loop in wire enough to remove it. More than one occasion over the last two seasons have front calipers become detached on race bikes (it tends to get hushed up- for fear of embarrasment) Thankfully without consequences. agree it should be tight..but at least if its nipped but not tightened but wired it wont undo completely. The knocking sound / spongy lever and grabbing brakes should serve as first warning that all is not well

    Hey Billy its taken longer than i thought for the "belly pan" card to be played

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