2004 Suzuki Bandit - Cut out, won't start

[Akzle]

switches will be N/O or N/C.
One at a time, try alternately grounding them, or ungrounding them.
Whichever way makes it less-fucked, duct tape it in place.

[Drew]

Hahah alright, haven't checked the fuses so you might still have me there. Would the clutch switch not cause the engine to cut-out while running? Is there any trouble shooting to be done on the stand switch, or would I have to cut and rewire them?

Clutch switch wouldn't cause the bike to stop running. Would only stop it from starting.

The stand switch will plug in to the loom, rather than being hard wired. Unplug it, and stick a piece of speaker wire in the two holes in the plug...The plug on the bike, not the stand switch. If it starts, there's ya problem. If it doesn't, take the speaker wire out and try again. If it still doesn't, plug the stand back in because the stand switch isn't the problem.

[Morcs]

Could be a hundred different things. Being a JDM 4 Cylinder 250 - unless they are thrashed everywhere all the time they will give you problems - plus they are all rather old now.

My money however, is on a CDI unit (if it isnt something obvious)

[Theantidote]

OK .. sorry - Yes, it is not a 21 year old bike ...

Sounds like the main power source to the engine ...

Is the battery charged? If the battery is really flat, it may be because the charging system is not working and the bike was running on the battery only - if so, the battery may have run flat - which is why the bike stopped and why it won't turn over .. IF you charge up the battery and the bike runs, trhen your charging system needs looking at ...

If it's not that, have a look at the kill switch - maybe it is shorting out or not connected ... This sounds likely .. as it would stop the bike turning over ...

If it's not that, have a look at the leads into the CDI unit - this is where the plug leads go ... if it's electrical it's cutting out before power gets to the plug leads (if it was plug leads it would be only one and not all four) .. trace the wires and see if one has become disconnected (have a look at the base of the on-off switch (key switch) ... have a look at all the connections (pull them apart and check they make good conntrections - then push tem back together again firmly.) But if the bike won't turn over then the fault is likely to be before this anyway . ..

Check all your connections anyway ... a loose, danmaged or disconnected wire could be why the charging syetem might not be working ...


It may be something simple like a lead come off .. (maybe you accidentally loosened something when you put in the new clutch cable? )

I hate chasing electrons - you can't see the little shits .. so you can't see if they are going where they are supposed to or not ..

wot that guy said...start with all the basics and work from there one thing at a time...battery condition is so important it should be the first place to look...if it's flat check the rec/res type thingo if you have on...and so on

[frisken]

Alright, I finally solved the issue and have an answer for everyone wondering what went wrong. This was a bit of a tricky one, and I am so grateful a friend of a friend came to the party and saved me sending it into a shop to be looked over.

After a lot of troubleshooting and fiddling around, it turns out that one of the screws inside the clocks instrument had wiggled itself loose and hit a metal bar which runs across the instrument keeping it attacked to the bike. Just so happened that the screw was the connected to the power cable so it was grounding itself and short circuiting. This was causing fuses to keep blowing.

After replacing the fuses, rewiring the instrument and securing everything in place we hooked it all back up and its running again. I would hate to think how much fun a mechanic would of had with that; realistically I don't think they would've found it and I think they would've charged me the Earth for having a look. But; that was the case and I'm glad it's back up and running.