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Thread: Cheapo hardtail struts

  1. #1
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    17th November 2011 - 21:57
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    Cheapo hardtail struts

    Picked up a gn250. I will make a bobber out of it.

    Step one is to replace the rear springs with solid struts to hardtail it.
    Looked online and struts will cost me $110, which is crazy, I ain't spending that much on a gn.

    For the time being, I want to do a proof of concept so I'm looking at alternative strut materials that will hold up, looks do not really matter at this stage.
    I'm thinking of heading into mitre10 and picking up some fairly thick copper pipe, drilling holes on either end (paint it black) and installing that to see how it looks.

    Question is, will the copper pipe handle alright under weight load? - Dont want to ride it and have them bend when I hit a bump, that would be stupid.
    or what are some good alternative options.


    attached image is $110 struts - 25cm from centre of hole to hole, holes are 1.3cm dia + wall
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    4th November 2007 - 13:39
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    Quote Originally Posted by re_animate View Post
    Picked up a gn250. I will make a bobber out of it.

    Step one is to replace the rear springs with solid struts to hardtail it.
    Looked online and struts will cost me $110, which is crazy, I ain't spending that much on a gn.

    For the time being, I want to do a proof of concept so I'm looking at alternative strut materials that will hold up, looks do not really matter at this stage.
    I'm thinking of heading into mitre10 and picking up some fairly thick copper pipe, drilling holes on either end (paint it black) and installing that to see how it looks.

    Question is, will the copper pipe handle alright under weight load? - Dont want to ride it and have them bend when I hit a bump, that would be stupid.
    or what are some good alternative options.


    attached image is $110 struts - 25cm from centre of hole to hole, holes are 1.3cm dia + wall
    copper seriously??

    get some steel pipe instead

    plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze

    come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz

  3. #3
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    7th May 2010 - 19:43
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    Quote Originally Posted by hayd3n View Post
    coppper seriously??

    get some steel pipe instead

    As above,
    If you are considering using copper pipe,
    PLEASE put down the tools.

    If you want to get an idea of a good length for ride height I would suggest two lengths of wood with a series of holes drilled in them so you can adjust to find a good height,
    Then going from there.

    You could explore CNC'ing some Aluminium struts, but as looks arnt a big thing I would go to your local steel supplier and pick up some rod and going from there.

  4. #4
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    15th January 2009 - 10:26
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    Fork out the $110.

    I'm not sure you even have the aptitude to be a blacksmith, nevermind a motorcycle fabricator.

    My money would be on the smith's struts, either way.
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  5. #5
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    25th April 2009 - 17:38
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    Quote Originally Posted by re_animate View Post
    Looked online and struts will cost me $110, which is crazy, I ain't spending that much on a gn.
    To properly mod a bike you either need a lot of money, or a bit of time and access to gear and knowledge to use it correctly. For what they are, and the finish on them, 110 sounds about right. Copper pipe with holes drilled will be a lot weaker, both the material, and its physical design.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  6. #6
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    10th December 2005 - 15:33
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    I like the look of polished copper as well but don't try and use it for anything structural. If you want the copper look just use a length of thin wall plumbing pipe as a decorative sleeve over your struts. You do not want those struts bending, you will need something rigid like steel tubing. I wouldn't use flat bar. If you dont have a welder you might get away with some thick threaded steel rod inside a length of strong steel tube - that way you can use something like a rose joint on either end and some lock nuts to keep the bar and tube in tension- it will be pretty rigid. You can the slip the copper pipe over the steel pipe for looks. Take a look at your own shocks for an idea of how heavy duty the bar needs to be. If you go with rose joints just check there's no sideways play or the swing arm will be able to move sideways. I just did something similar for a set of anti tramp bars.
    I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..

  7. #7
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    17th November 2011 - 21:57
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    Lol, ok so copper pipe is off the table.

    I've emailed a few local steel shops to find out prices of steel pipe.
    Would a steel block with holes either end work structurally? (see attached image)

    Anyond know what should I expect to pay for a pipe 20mm in diameter x 520mm long with a hole that's 13mm?
    Would I be better off just buying the prefab strut online?
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  8. #8
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    Thats a serious block of steel - pretty hefty in weight. I would buy them ready made up.
    I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by re_animate View Post

    Question is, will the copper pipe handle alright under weight load? - wall
    I would suggest that if you are serious with this question, you do not have the necessary basic skills to attempt any customisation and you should step away from the bike.

  10. #10
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    5th April 2004 - 20:04
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    So, with less sarcasm. No, copper pipe is not strong enough.

    Drilling a hole through any pipe and bunging a bolt through is not strong enough period. If you go with that method, it needs another smaller piece of pipe through the drilled hole, and welded around where the two come together.


    Best look, is to drill a hole the same size as the pipe. Essentially that cuts the pipe but leaves a nice curve for another piece of pipe to sit nice and snug in the cradle. Bush it to the right size for your bolt, and you have exactly what the $110 would have bought you.

    Dunno about what your time is worth, but if I had the money doing nothing, it's cheaper to buy than build.

  11. #11
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    28th May 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by re_animate View Post
    Lol, ok so copper pipe is off the table.
    copper was never on the table as it wont even hold a table up far less a motorcycle over bumps!!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by re_animate View Post
    Picked up a gn250. I will make a bobber out of it.

    Step one is to replace the rear springs with solid struts to hardtail it.
    Looked online and struts will cost me $110, which is crazy, I ain't spending that much on a gn.

    For the time being, I want to do a proof of concept so I'm looking at alternative strut materials that will hold up, looks do not really matter at this stage.
    I'm thinking of heading into mitre10 and picking up some fairly thick copper pipe, drilling holes on either end (paint it black) and installing that to see how it looks.

    Question is, will the copper pipe handle alright under weight load? - Dont want to ride it and have them bend when I hit a bump, that would be stupid.
    or what are some good alternative options.


    attached image is $110 struts - 25cm from centre of hole to hole, holes are 1.3cm dia + wall
    why not drill a hole in the top of your shocks and empty the oil out, flush it out with meths then fill it up with plaster of paris when it sets then you will have the hardtail of your dreams.....

  13. #13
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    24th September 2008 - 01:32
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    firstly, as said, dont use copper.

    go to a steel supplier and ask them what lengths of damaged stock they have - theyll sell it to you by the metre, wont cost you more than $20.'

    secondly if you want to figure it out without spending the coin, then 'acquire' a copy of photoshop, and spend some rainy evenings trying things out to see how it would look

  14. #14
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    20mm is overkill. Take your drawing to Autobend or any laser cutting shop and get them to cut it from 12mm mild steel flat bar.

    If I had a drill press in my shed I would cut these out with my plasma and drill the holes for 60 bucks. $110 is reasonable so I would just buy those...

  15. #15
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    17th November 2011 - 21:57
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    Yeah, fair enough. I think I might just buy the struts rather than waste time looking for cheaper options.

    By the way, I'm new to the whole modifying motorbikes thing. I've got no one teaching me but youtube. I figured copper plumbing pipe was a stretch, just looking for alternatives to a part that seemed a bit more expensive than it's worth. So didn't mean to sound incompetant, I'm just inexperienced with motorbike frames. - I've worked on engines before, just wanted advise on saving some cash from people who had experience.

    So no, I will not step away from the bike haha.

    Another question, where would be a good place to get a solo seat? I haven't had any luck finding them anywhere

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