Wtf is wrong with my GN250?

[unstuck]

Well it sounds like you are halfway there with the valve clearences and sparkplug, and your air filter sounds ok from what you have posted. So all that is really left is the fuel and idle mixture settings. Unless you know what you are doing, I would suggest leaving this to someone who has some experience with it. Small turns on the mixture screw can seriously affect the running of your motor, so if you do attempt it yourself, just small turns at a time. Never screw the mixture screw all the way in real hard, as it will bend the screw tip or put a groove in it.




The one in the pic is not for your bike but you can get an idea of how fragile the tip of a mixture screw is. To check that it is in good condition, carefully screw it all the way in until it lightly seats and count how many turns it takes to seat , this is critical, because you want it the same when putting it back. If you have a manual, then it will give you the initial setting EG: 2 turns out? Then remove it and inspect the tip for any damage, even a small groove in the tip will effect the way the motor idles. If it is damaged, get a new one.

[unstuck]

You may want to have a read of this thread too.......http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...N250-when-cold

Post#8 has a pic of the mixture screw location and initial setting.

[buggerit]

reading your first post you said the be bike sounded like a cat trying to cough up a furball, was wondering if your little darlings have put
something down your exhaust or if your baffles have collapsed

[Maha]

My Hornet has a choke. I never use it.

...or you can stand there and hold the throttle at 2000rpm till it can idle on it's own.

[T.W.R]

Valve clearance already checked. I think most else in the bike should be fine, front and rear sprockets, chain and tyres all replaced within the past 5 or so months? Oil and filter I change about every 4k, new air filter, but I definitely need to check clutch cable adjustment this weekend.

all you've done is rattle off consumable items not service or maintenance items and TBH shame on any of your fellow Dorkland KBers who you've probably mixed with & spent time with not fronting up and helping.
So if the valve clearances were checked what were they ??

And running slightly rich as the plug shows isn't going to cause the problems you described in the 1st post

Starting to think your avatar's character name is appropriate

[bosslady]

Well it sounds like you are halfway there with the valve clearences and sparkplug, and your air filter sounds ok from what you have posted. So all that is really left is the fuel and idle mixture settings. Unless you know what you are doing, I would suggest leaving this to someone who has some experience with it. Small turns on the mixture screw can seriously affect the running of your motor, so if you do attempt it yourself, just small turns at a time. Never screw the mixture screw all the way in real hard, as it will bend the screw tip or put a groove in it.




The one in the pic is not for your bike but you can get an idea of how fragile the tip of a mixture screw is. To check that it is in good condition, carefully screw it all the way in until it lightly seats and count how many turns it takes to seat , this is critical, because you want it the same when putting it back. If you have a manual, then it will give you the initial setting EG: 2 turns out? Then remove it and inspect the tip for any damage, even a small groove in the tip will effect the way the motor idles. If it is damaged, get a new one.

I will try and look into this in the weekend. I wonder how much a new mixture screw is? I have to have this bike probably until I get my full which is about 17 or so months away (!!!!) so I need to look after it and I don't mind replacing relatively inexpensive little bits here and there. I wouldn't want to be touching this so I might ask my flatmate if he can help me which he really hates doing. I also think I might try and get a new fuel line cause it's looking a bit stretched since I keep removing it (had to do it a few times when I got the tank painted).

You may want to have a read of this thread too.......http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...N250-when-cold

Post#8 has a pic of the mixture screw location and initial setting.

Thanks, will take a look in the weekend probably.

reading your first post you said the be bike sounded like a cat trying to cough up a furball, was wondering if your little darlings have put
something down your exhaust or if your baffles have collapsed

I don't think so? The sound didn't come back last night when I took it for a quick ride around the block, gosh knows what it is but you know how there is usually some kind of plate on the back of the exhaust? It came off a very long time ago but it was a piece that is riveted (right word?) on so it's not like I can go get a new one and screw it in? Don't know what a baffle is.. but I am very baffled if that helps

all you've done is rattle off consumable items not service or maintenance items and TBH shame on any of your fellow Dorkland KBers who you've probably mixed with & spent time with not fronting up and helping.
So if the valve clearances were checked what were they ??

And running slightly rich as the plug shows isn't going to cause the problems you described in the 1st post

Starting to think your avatar's character name is appropriate

They are maintenance items and things that if old/worn/loose/whatever can effect the performance of the bike (but likely not at all related to my current predicament). I'm just saying that I'm trying to take care of it and do check these things and that they are OK. I don't know what the valve clearances were because at first my flatmate didn't realise two thickness gauges were stuck together so we adjusted it then realised that the gauges were stuck together so adjusted it back to the right thickness. I would have liked to have known what it was originally too, oh well.

[bosslady]

Question, especially because I am a bit confused now that I have another (dirt) bike. When I am on my dirt bike, because you ride the clutch (right phrase?) a lot, keep me two fingies on it etc, I don't have to pull it all the way in (because anyway if I did I'd crush my pinky and whatever the other finger next to it is called). But my GN, different story, I could never use two fingers, I have to use all four because the other two fingers would get crushed. This doesn't seem right, surely I shouldn't have to hold it ALLLLL the way in to change up/down or whatever the fuck I'm trying to say, not very good with the right terminology sorry so I hope this makes sense? Surely this must be something to do with the clutch cable adjustment or maybe even my clutch lever? I'm pretty sure it's been bent in even more then the one in this link, for example http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-616718966.htm would that make a difference do you think? Maybe it was bent more for someone with short fingers?

[unstuck]

New mixture screw will be bugger all. You only need to replace if damaged though, may just need bit of a turn in or out.

[unstuck]

Get one of these from a bike shop, usually under $20. Cable lubrication device, you put the nozzle from a can of crc in the little hole and it squirts it down between the cable and sheath and makes it nice and slippery.

[haydes55]

Start with lubing the cable (do the throttle cable while you're at it. I used to take the entire cable out, hang it off a clothes line with a peg and use a cable luber and soak it in crc then silicon until it starts dripping out of the bottom (hold a rag around the top so the crc/silicon can't run down the outside of the cable so you know when it's gone through the entire cable). Make sure the cable moves smoothly in and out. Check for any signs of the cable being bent at any angle that isn't a gentle curve. And the outter shell (whatever it's called) hasn't got any breaks in it or stretch marks.

If you can adjust the cable from the motor end of the cable. Make adjustments there first. Fine tune the free play at the clutch lever.

If you want it to fully engage the clutch without having to pull the lever fully in, the clutch will be harder to pull in and have a shorter working margin so would be easier to stall. Ideally on a road bike it should be fully engaged with not much room left til the level hits the bars. Everyone prefers there clutch different though. But make sure you have at least 1 or 2mm of play in the lever or you could have clutch slip and cook some clutch plates. Or on a gn250, warm up some clutch plates lol

[bosslady]

Thanks for the advice guys, will see how I get on this weekend.

[nzspokes]

...or you can stand there and hold the throttle at 2000rpm till it can idle on it's own.

Hit the starter. No throttle. It goes and idles fine.

Injection is nice.

[unstuck]

Hit the starter. No throttle. It goes and idles fine.

Injection is nice.

Injection......Ahhh......Thats cheating.

[carburator]

Hit the starter. No throttle. It goes and idles fine.

Injection is nice.

injection is nice, blown is better... mind you on a hilborn system
there is no part throttle...

[superjackal]

No, not related to the WOF It's got a brand spanking new and oiled air filter so shouldn't be that (which I thought it was) I cleaned the fuel strainer maybe a month ago but maybe I could try that again. I'll look up spark plug in the manual. I think it's got plenty of spark? should I check the battery?

Have it serviced regularly or they go bad quick. They'll keep running almost no matter what.... but like yours is now.