The good news is if the chrome is getting a tad rusty you can give it the aluminum foil and water treatment,miraculous it is.
I was rejuvenating some of the Eldorado bits today.
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...be._wkkChTtLsM
PA10 has value only as a temporary holding primer over prepped steel, prior to priming properly with a genuine anticorrosive.
Single pack zinc, such as the CR based rattle can types, are also only usefull as a temporary measure, and have the added problem of topcoat saponification if enamel based topcoat is used, weather it is single pack or two pack.
For any zinc to work as a cathodic protection system, it must have clean steel for the electron flow, to enable the electrical reation that creats the sacrificial action of the zinc. FE, Ferrus Oxide (RUST) will block the reation, and is by nature porous so also provides no protection from moisture, weather immersion service or moisture vapour transfer.
Use an MIO epoxy over hand prepped steel, at at least 125um film thickness.(minimum). Surface tolerant and resistant to abrasion, water immersion and with minimal prep will accept a wide range of topcoat options, but will provide long term protection by itself in most environments, other than severe geothermal or marine corrosive environments
Two major NZ suppliers of genuine protective coatings are: Axzo Nobel and Altex Devoe
Speed kills-just ask the rabbit......
So to sum up. Nope. Rust is as rust does.
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Just catch a fish & rub the cunt over the affected area. And shit.
A couple of old tyres, some black polythene and used hydraulic oil. Some rags and a box of matches.
Keep on chooglin'
Make a rocket in ya backyard and stick it into orbit. No moisture or air = no rust.
Mendent underbody Seal commercial grade automotive sealant made by CRC industries
the stuff looks like they've just puréed fish & added tar, sets like a silicone gel
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks