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Thread: Headlight improvement help?

  1. #1
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    Headlight improvement help?

    I've had to use the trusty TDM for work of late & the ride home at 11pm is interesting, can't see squat. The headlights are very poor.
    I'm tutuing with the adjustment but know from other owners that even correctly adjusted they are still rubbish, quite a few have gone for HD upgrades or fitted additional lights. Right handers are particularly bad, literally a shot in the dark.
    I put in some Phillips bulbs about 4 years ago which are better than standard, can't remember the type, though. I followed the advice about lumens(?), light output rather than having a sminky colour imitating HD beams.

    Anyhoo, what bulbs are flavour of the month now, technology must have rolled on & do any KB'ers have ideas for cheap, easy improvements?
    Manopausal.

  2. #2
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    Someone was saying they though LED drop in replacement bulbs do quite well, made by guys starting with p who also do rally lights iirc.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  3. #3
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    Check first if the lights go through relays. If not - instal them first or you are wasting your time putting in bigger bulbs

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Check first if the lights go through relays. If not - instal them first or you are wasting your time putting in bigger bulbs
    A relay would be no dramas but what is the deal with LTSA on wattage? All I can find is not to replace a standard bulb with one of higher wattage. Also back in the day higher wattage, hotter bulbs, anecdotally could cause issues with the lens. Melty issues. Never actually met anybody who has had this problem.
    Manopausal.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    A relay would be no dramas but what is the deal with LTSA on wattage? All I can find is not to replace a standard bulb with one of higher wattage. Also back in the day higher wattage, hotter bulbs, anecdotally could cause issues with the lens. Melty issues. Never actually met anybody who has had this problem.
    I think its an issue with things like some of the HID lamps which cause a different pattern of light. Bikes like our old FZR are problems as they use a wierd harold bulb (of extra weedy output) and plastic housings. Stupid idea. But since you are on a yamaha I'd check its a fairly standard bulb 1st.

    Moving to an H4 of similar wattage should improve things sight out of mind. Relay's if not fitted will really improve things as the losses through the switch gear can be horrendous (worn contacts, dirt build up and thin wires)

    Mount the relays near the lights and you can use the existing feed from the handlebars to operate the relay and feed the lights via a heavier (fused) direct feed.

    Originally the TR6C used a 45W 'globe' and now we run a 55/55W H4 via relays and despite the 6" light the difference is litterally night and day. You feel quite safe at 100kph (well apart from the furious thrashing from the engine dept)

    Other option are trick driving lights for high beam but you might strike WOF issues.

  6. #6
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    HID pattern is a separate issue from wattage, probably because it's rare to put in a higher wattage HID when they put out a lot more light at lower wattages than stock! HID bulbs themselves have a different light point, which plays hell with the beam pattern generated by most reflectors.

    I think upping the wattage is just a no-no due to melting things, mainly the wiring I would expect, but also in some cases the reflector.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  7. #7
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    Hmmm, t'would seem H3 55w is standard.

    I suppose I should start at the beginning before spending money & tinkering in ignorance. Whats the best way to check adjustment? High beam is level on the road & throws to the left as it should \__ but what about height? Road signs are certainly glaring even at a distance.
    Manopausal.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    Hmmm, t'would seem H3 55w is standard.

    I suppose I should start at the beginning before spending money & tinkering in ignorance. Whats the best way to check adjustment? High beam is level on the road & throws to the left as it should \__ but what about height? Road signs are certainly glaring even at a distance.
    Test for losses as well.

    Take a fused 'hot' lead from the battery and touch to the hot side of the bulb. If the light brightens you need relays...

    Also check earthing on the bike - seperate lead from headlight to earth point is a good idea.

  9. #9
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    I fitted the Ring Automotive bulbs to my Street Triple and they are a massive improvement, even over the Osram Nightbreakers I had in previously.

    Have a look at these photos: http://geoffjames.blogspot.co.nz/201...and-there.html

    I use Autobulbs Direct in the UK as they are much cheaper and the service is really good.

    Cheers,

    Geoff

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Test for losses as well.

    Take a fused 'hot' lead from the battery and touch to the hot side of the bulb. If the light brightens you need relays...

    Also check earthing on the bike - seperate lead from headlight to earth point is a good idea.
    Love it, or use a multi meter and compare the voltage of the battery to the headlights. Back in the 6Volt VW days we used to run a large cable straight from the generator via fuses and relays to the then new 6volt H4 lamps....6.5 volts works way better than 4.

    Larger wattage may overload wiring and if non relayed the switches too.
    DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    Larger wattage may overload wiring and if non relayed the switches too.
    Absolutely, but there's a huge difference in quality/output from the same wattage bulbs. The non-OEM same wattage ones I have in the Triple run no hotter (from a subjective touch of the headlamp shell ) but are brighter thanks to high purity Xenon and other components.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird View Post
    Absolutely, but there's a huge difference in quality/output from the same wattage bulbs. The non-OEM same wattage ones I have in the Triple run no hotter (from a subjective touch of the headlamp shell ) but are brighter thanks to not using the cheapest possible product.
    Fixed that for you.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    Love it, or use a multi meter and compare the voltage of the battery to the headlights. Back in the 6Volt VW days we used to run a large cable straight from the generator via fuses and relays to the then new 6volt H4 lamps....6.5 volts works way better than 4.

    Larger wattage may overload wiring and if non relayed the switches too.
    +1

    Im going to be checking just that on the weekend.
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  14. #14
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    I'm hopeless at electrickery but their is a clever chap just a few houses down who is a black belt. I will wander over, explain my problem, share the advice posted & see what he comes up with.

    Cheers all.
    Manopausal.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird View Post
    I fitted the Ring Automotive bulbs to my Street Triple and they are a massive improvement, even over the Osram Nightbreakers I had in previously.

    Have a look at these photos: http://geoffjames.blogspot.co.nz/201...and-there.html

    I use Autobulbs Direct in the UK as they are much cheaper and the service is really good.

    Cheers,

    Geoff
    Just as a matter of interest, what bulb type has the Trumpy got. I have a Daytona, that has got candles for headlights. I have an H7 low beam, and an H9 high beam. getting better bulbs for H7 is possible. But H9 not so.



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