Rider and static sag?

**Maha** · 11th August 2013, 14:15

Bike is currently at Factory settings and is fine with me at 88kgs.

Rear
Unloaded = 355mm
Loaded = 340mm
Rider/Gear = 312mm
Rider Sag = 43mm/Static Sag = 15mm

Front
Unloaded = 495mm
Loaded = 460mm
Rider/Gear = 450mm
Rider Sag = 45mm/Static Sag = 35mm

In a few weeks I will increase the normal weight by about 85-90kgs (for a weekend) by adding a pillion and full panniers/Top box (may not need the top box)
Question: Any idea on preload front and rear adjustment, to accommodate the extra weight?

**kinger** · 11th August 2013, 19:15

I just wind the rear preload and ride a bit more conservatively.
It's worked fine for years, including across the Canadian prairies and through the Rockies.
You'd do well to set your suspension to suit yourself first. You've not measured the full travel figures, easily done with tyraps on fork legs and pistons.
Don't forget to lower headlight beam when pillioned up.

**Robert Taylor** · 11th August 2013, 19:33

Originally Posted by Maha

Bike is currently at Factory settings and is fine with me at 88kgs.

Rear
Unloaded = 355mm
Loaded = 340mm
Rider/Gear = 312mm
Rider Sag = 43mm/Static Sag = 15mm

Front
Unloaded = 495mm
Loaded = 460mm
Rider/Gear = 450mm
Rider Sag = 45mm/Static Sag = 35mm

In a few weeks I will increase the normal weight by about 85-90kgs (for a weekend) by adding a pillion and full panniers/Top box (may not need the top box)
Question: Any idea on preload front and rear adjustment, to accommodate the extra weight?

The bike is a GSX1250? Unloaded figures are ''wheel in air'', fully extended?

**Maha** · 11th August 2013, 21:04

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

The bike is a GSX1250? Unloaded figures are ''wheel in air'', fully extended?

Correct, bike was on the centre stand.

**Robert Taylor** · 11th August 2013, 21:44

Originally Posted by Maha

Correct, bike was on the centre stand.

Ok, excellent. Rider sag figures you are looking for with a road going bike are around 36-42 rear and 35 -45 front. We always set rider sag first and foremost and then measure ''resultant'' free sag afterwards. That resultant figure is indicative of whether the spring rate is ''in the zone. Don't regard the suggested figures as absolute gospel, its what works for you that really counts.
If you have a setup that works really well for you solo then get the feel for how much bend there is in your knees when you are sitting on the bike feet on ground on a flat surface. When you add a passenger and extra baggage etc readjust preload so that when you are all sitting on the bike the bend in your knees is exactly the same. You are then merely restoring static loaded ride height to the same as solo. No need for laborious re-measuring!

**Robert Taylor** · 11th August 2013, 21:48

Originally Posted by Maha

Correct, bike was on the centre stand.

Suffice to say also ( irrespective that I sell suspension! ) that the tiny rear shock on that bike is going to struggle with all that extra load you have rattled off

**Maha** · 11th August 2013, 21:59

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

Ok, excellent. Rider sag figures you are looking for with a road going bike are around 36-42 rear and 35 -45 front. We always set rider sag first and foremost and then measure ''resultant'' free sag afterwards. That resultant figure is indicative of whether the spring rate is ''in the zone. Don't regard the suggested figures as absolute gospel, its what works for you that really counts.
If you have a setup that works really well for you solo then get the feel for how much bend there is in your knees when you are sitting on the bike feet on ground on a flat surface. When you add a passenger and extra baggage etc readjust preload so that when you are all sitting on the bike the bend in your knees is exactly the same. You are then merely restoring static loaded ride height to the same as solo. No need for laborious re-measuring!

Brilliant, thank you for that Robert.

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

Suffice to say also ( irrespective that I sell suspension! ) that the tiny rear shock on that bike is going to struggle with all that extra load you have rattled off

Went for a full days ride two-up not so long ago, seemed to handle things fine, I must admit though, not with the panniers/top box. I will increase the rear preload a click, current measurement is just on, or a tad firm it would seem?

**nzspokes** · 12th August 2013, 22:01

Just for giggles I checked my fork sag today, static 15mm and rider sag 35mm.

Yup bored at lunch time.

**LankyBastard** · 12th August 2013, 22:46

Just for reference, i'll be in the same boat with Becca on the back, and i'll have my rear preload at max. And even then the tiger's handling can be best described as boat like

Good thing Robert is going to sort me out in early September, cant wait!!

**Gremlin** · 12th August 2013, 22:55

Originally Posted by LankyBastard

Just for reference, i'll be in the same boat with Becca on the back, and i'll have my rear preload at max. And even then the tiger's handling can be best described as boat like

Good thing Robert is going to sort me out in early September, cant wait!!

Get a BMW... push a button, suspension adjustments made

**Robert Taylor** · 13th August 2013, 07:47

Originally Posted by nzspokes

Just for giggles I checked my fork sag today, static 15mm and rider sag 35mm.

Yup bored at lunch time.

Those in theory are not good figures. If you reset your front rider sag to say 40-45mm range it would be interesting to see what your ''resultant'' free sag is. It depends of course on the bike but very often riders will set the front sag ''tight'' to try and minimise an initial tendency for the front end to drop through its stroke. Very often the issue is poor spring rate choice or the low speed compression damping control is very weak.

**Robert Taylor** · 13th August 2013, 07:48

Originally Posted by Gremlin

Get a BMW... push a button, suspension adjustments made

How is the Ohlins mechatronic suspension working for you?

**nzspokes** · 13th August 2013, 07:51

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

Those in theory are not good figures. If you reset your front rider sag to say 40-45mm range it would be interesting to see what your ''resultant'' free sag is. It depends of course on the bike but very often riders will set the front sag ''tight'' to try and minimise an initial tendency for the front end to drop through its stroke. Very often the issue is poor spring rate choice or the low speed compression damping control is very weak.

Well its adjusted half way through its preload so I can adjust the preload off a bit and check both sags. What should the free sag be?

**LankyBastard** · 13th August 2013, 08:50

Originally Posted by Gremlin

Get a BMW... push a button, suspension adjustments made

I nearly did, took the latest water cooled GS out and thought it was brilliant. The only issue was the $18k needed to trade up

New suspension for the Tiger is waaaaaay cheaper

**nzspokes** · 13th August 2013, 10:18

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

Those in theory are not good figures. If you reset your front rider sag to say 40-45mm range it would be interesting to see what your ''resultant'' free sag is. It depends of course on the bike but very often riders will set the front sag ''tight'' to try and minimise an initial tendency for the front end to drop through its stroke. Very often the issue is poor spring rate choice or the low speed compression damping control is very weak.

Adjusters all the way out result in 36mm sag and 18mm free.