The 50

**cotswold** · 17th July 2014, 12:35

Has any one got a workshop manual I could buy/borrow from them for the NSR50 or MTX50R as I have a pile of bits I would like to put back together. My Dutch friend has suggested 6/100ths for my piston clearance so have gone with that.

**cotswold** · 2nd August 2014, 17:33

Popped over to the Auckland home of 2T improvement on Thursday. Took the old bottom end and the freshly rebored cylinder so I could mark up where I need to cut the ports to. I have started at 198 for the exhaust and the inlets were ok as they are but will be widened when I get the burrs modified. I also opened up the boyesen ports I put in before.

**cotswold** · 24th August 2014, 14:16

This just shows what can be done if you are clever. NSR50 converted to disc valve and looks like a Kreidler ? cylinder.

**husaberg** · 24th August 2014, 14:22

That will be a rolfe special...........the mad swede......
He did one with a Derbi earlier it was on the web site I linked with all the pistons and peg locations etc.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...hmentid=249743

Originally Posted by husaberg

Er... the cases could look a lot like a Honda mb100 because they are a Honda MB50

well they could be mbx or NS50,nsr50 but pretty sure mb5

Did you follow the link to the Roffe follow picture of man with tools on the navigation home site man witit looks like he offers it as a kit for the mb5. The building of this particular motor is in another thread i will have a look in my favorites/or bookmarks.
But it was i think in the racing 50's site. here you have to log on to see the pics

Mike he does a lot of MB stuff like a kokusan ignition just like the real racers, lots of inlets carb kits reeds etc electric pumps etc etc ....
So now Frits.
Does that mean i am no longer the thread Goldfish?Oh bugger i can't throw stones from this glasshouse/bowl. Oh well i will go back to the corner of my bowl then
bugger where is the corner. oh well if i keep swimming around it will be here somewhere. Oh what were we talking about again?

**cotswold** · 3rd September 2014, 12:50

A bit of advice required, a Dutch friend suggested I use this bearing on one side of the crank. After getting it I noticed it has a plastic/nylon ? cage, it is supposed to be able to spin up to 15000 without issue but I am a little scared as the last thing I want is my new motor going off like a grenade the 1st time out.

( amendment ) After talking to another Euro friend I have put the bearing on my nice to look at shelf and will stick to standard ones.

**F5 Dave** · 3rd September 2014, 15:17

I use resin cage bearings all the time. The roller type I have not used. As per Wobs advice I am now polishing the shaft so there is a sliding fit to the ID these days. I tape up the rod & mount it in the lathe & fine emery it for an age with test fitting every little while.

**FastFred** · 4th September 2014, 09:55

Originally Posted by TZ350

I think the cranks can be made reliable with original Suzuki RGV rod kits and decent main brgs, the same could be done with TF/TS's and then they should be good for 13,000 + too.

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TeeZee uses plastic caged brgs.

**cotswold** · 29th September 2014, 09:37

All the parts are now laid out on the garage floor ready to be re-assembled but I have been procrastinating. If any one out there has a workshop manual for an NSR or MTX50R I could do with a loan of it as I am not over confident of a successful outcome if I do it without one.

**F5 Dave** · 29th September 2014, 09:42

I've only got the MB50 one but won't help as your gearbox shafts are together. PM me your email if you want it. All looks like MB50/100 sort of stuff, I never bothered with a manual.