Semi-pivotless frame

[mossy1200]

I'd report, if you know it's been sold when there were bids with reserve met.

They don't care. Its happened to me about 20 times so far. That's why they charge most of the vehicle costs up front and then try charge the success fee also when you withdraw.



http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-637464937.htm
That's the perfect roller but its dearer and in Auckland. Idd start out with something like it.

[vifferman]

I'm looking a getting a bike with a dead motor to convert to electric. Found a relatively cheap VTR1000F on trademe which looks suitable. However wikipedia says it has a "Semi-pivotless frame".


If I'm wanting to remove the engine entirely, I'm guessing this would be a bad thing? Ie should I be looking for a bike without a Semi-pivotless frame?

There are bikes like the VTR1000 and VFR800 where the swingarm pivots are in the back of the engine case (i.e., the engine is a stressed member in lieu of a frame), so when the engine's removed, you'd have to manufacture a new swingarm pivot, plus add something in to replace the engine's various mounting points for ancillary items.
Another bad thing about these two (and similar bikes) are the subframes are alloy. You'd be better off with a conventional steel-tubing frame that you could cut and weld if required.

[Delphinus]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-637447549.htm Transport is an issue
These would work but being Genesis models they will have 18inch rear wheels.
Conversion to 17inch isn't very hard but I had to order a fzr1000 exup 17inch wheel from usa when I wanted a wet set of wheels because they arnt easy to find.
Maybe that's not as important to you for the road.

Yeah what is the main issue with 18" wheels? Just tyre choice and price? I was looking at for example the Metzler Roadtec and the 18" tyres are only $35 more than 17" equivalent.

Transport for above (Hastings) isn't too much of an issue. I have family in Masterton who can store it for a while and other family who can throw it on the back of a truck for me in a couple of months.

You might be right. Is something suitable at $500 unrealistic? I'm in no particular hurry.

[Delphinus]

There are bikes like the VTR1000 and VFR800 where the swingarm pivots are in the back of the engine case (i.e., the engine is a stressed member in lieu of a frame), so when the engine's removed, you'd have to manufacture a new swingarm pivot, plus add something in to replace the engine's various mounting points for ancillary items.

Not to mention makes the re-registering for road use much harder due to the modifications. I'm learning.

Another bad thing about these two (and similar bikes) are the subframes are alloy. You'd be better off with a conventional steel-tubing frame that you could cut and weld if required.

I'd actually prefer the alloy to keep the weight down. I have a friend who is a fabricator and he specialises in welding alloy.

[Drew]

Yeah what is the main issue with 18" wheels? Just tyre choice and price? I was looking at for example the Metzler Roadtec and the 18" tyres are only $35 more than 17" equivalent.

Transport for above (Hastings) isn't too much of an issue. I have family in Masterton who can store it for a while and other family who can throw it on the back of a truck for me in a couple of months.

You might be right. Is something suitable at $500 unrealistic? I'm in no particular hurry.

I don't have the time, but I would buy those and make one pre 89 race bike, and sell the rolling frame from the other if I did.

The 18" hoop is a pain to get great rubber for, but if you're not building a race bike it's easy to overcome.

[mossy1200]

Yeah what is the main issue with 18" wheels? Just tyre choice and price? I was looking at for example the Metzler Roadtec and the 18" tyres are only $35 more than 17" equivalent.

Transport for above (Hastings) isn't too much of an issue. I have family in Masterton who can store it for a while and other family who can throw it on the back of a truck for me in a couple of months.

You might be right. Is something suitable at $500 unrealistic? I'm in no particular hurry.

18 not to bad other than tire options but there is still good road options.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-637464937.htm If you could afford it.

If you went for the fzrs you would have about 1-1.3k worth of parts to sell left over.

[nallac]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-637447549.htm

They'd be a cool project, priced well to.... where's all my loose change

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-637464937.htm
That's the perfect roller but its dearer and in Auckland. Idd start out with something like it.

Thats a bargin for a whats there, perfect for the OP's elecky transplant

Not to mention makes the re-registering for road use much harder due to the modifications. I'm learning.

You are going to get certed for the elecky motor any way so no real added cost involved in that side, just the fab work involved.

Get that Bking.

[mossy1200]

They'd be a cool project, priced well to.... where's all my loose change




Thats a bargin for a whats there, perfect for the OP's elecky transplant



You are going to get certed for the elecky motor any way so no real added cost involved in that side, just the fab work involved.

Get that Bking.

He just put the price up 2 grand to 2980

[Delphinus]

Does this look familiar?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=642207260

[Drew]

Does this look familiar?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=642207260

Methinks someone didn't realise how hard it would be to get a Blade motor.

[Delphinus]

Found a Kawasaki GPX 750 1987 and its even here in Dunedin! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=642645063
Its old, its got a heap of kms on it, but could be suitable. Steel frame but still only 205kg dry. Not a huge amount more weight than something in alloy. Would the 20kg or so make much of a difference?
And they have been converted before. http://www.autoevolution.com/news/ho...deo-54086.html

Take it you rekon?

[Drew]

Take it you rekon?

I would personally like to work with a twin beam style frame for your application. But then, I'm not doing the job.

The weight of the steel isn't the issue, my RF900 has a beam style steel frame. It actually weights less than an SRAD GSXR750 aluminium of the same year, and is more rigid. It just seems like you have more freedom with them.

That all said, if you get a bike that's been done before you can look at their finished product and change things you can design better.

Nothing wrong with the bikes, they handle like a bathtub half full of water if you try and punt them, but that's not what you're building it for is it?

I'm no help, you're welcome.

[Delphinus]

I would personally like to work with a twin beam style frame for your application. But then, I'm not doing the job.

Nothing wrong with the bikes, they handle like a bathtub half full of water if you try and punt them, but that's not what you're building it for is it?

What exactly is a twin beam style? Like http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...B9SX_CityX.jpg with everything hanging below the surround? Effectively what most modern bikes are doing? What would make that easier to work with?

While it will primarily be a commuter bike, I would like the optioin of "giving it a punt" later down the track if battery tech gives me a bit more range.... Or I'm bored and feel like checking out the local twisties.

And contrary to popular belief you are actually helpful Drew!

[Drew]

What exactly is a twin beam style? Like http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...B9SX_CityX.jpg with everything hanging below the surround? Effectively what most modern bikes are doing? What would make that easier to work with?

While it will primarily be a commuter bike, I would like the optioin of "giving it a punt" later down the track if battery tech gives me a bit more range.... Or I'm bored and feel like checking out the local twisties.

And contrary to popular belief you are actually helpful Drew!

Space and frame rigidity are at maximum with a beam style frame. It's why the GP bikes use it...except the Ducati, but I doubt anyone should follow their lead.

Here's a good example of the beam. Now remember, the tank sits on top of the two frame spars. So you have all that space above the center line of the rails too.



If I had to guess, I would say that is an Aprilia frame, which is V-twin. An inline four shares similar dimensions in most respects, except width. The head of the motor sits between the rails, just behind the headstock. Even if it does hang lower, the airbox sits there so it still needs to be wide.

I'm no engineer, but I am lazy. If I can make it easier on my self, I will.

If your motor sits right back by the swingarm pivot, you could make your cell packs sit in front of it in a removable cage. I've seen what happens when spanners get dropped trying to work on the packs in place...not pretty.

[Delphinus]

Ok so you're opting for that style of frame more for handling (and space).
I sorta see what you're saying about space, but why does that increase the space so much more than the older style frame? You'd need to build the support structure to hang off the frame anyway.