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Thread: Kawasaki GPX250

  1. #1
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    Kawasaki GPX250

    Just looking at getting one of these and was wondering how reliable they are?
    what are the faults with this model and what sort of things should i look out for when i go to inspect it, any information hints and tips with this model would be appreciated, thanks
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  2. #2
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    I had one of those a few years back... My bro's still got it.
    Done about 60k, but now making god awful knocking noise when cold.
    Suspension is VERY soft, so if you are a big fulla, consider improving that with stiffer springs and what-not.
    16" tires limit you somewhat, but only of you want sticky rubber.
    Brake discs are solid, non floating type, so easily made, (guy in Waihi does them), as well as farings by the bloke in hamilton.
    Actually go pretty well for a 250, although not as sporty as a CBR or ZXR.
    Parallel twin, good sound, you should get much enjoyment from if for a few years as a commuter after you get the urge for something faster.
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  3. #3
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    yeah thats all i want is something fully faired, thats good and reliable, and still packs a bit of a punch, not to worried if the guys on the zxr's etc can go a wee bit faster, they're paying 2-3k more for their bikes so thats sort of expected, the one i'm looking at has done 37000km:
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-39514226.htm
    so it'll probably need the cam chain replaced soon?
    looks pretty tidy tho, they have the same engine as the zzr250 don't they?
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.W.R
    hi there gamgee,

    The GPX is just the younger bro of a ZZR250, basically same specs etc just minus the fancier body work.
    If i remember right, their about the same hp as your vt but just a bit more rev happy, the motors are fairly solid & reliable used to be good for around 185kmh & are fairly light on the juice. The last models with the twin disc front end are the pick of the bunch (only because of slightly better braking).
    Main things to check would be linkages in the uni-trak suspension (needle roller bearings & collets), they can get overlooked & the dust caps never sealed very well (they get gunged-up with crap easy). top end is slightly noisey but most kwackas were of that era (but not really rattley)
    A GPZ500 donk can be slung into the frame pretty easy too! (a mate did it)
    They handle well when the front is dropped about 5mm in the triple clamps (just puts a bit more weight over the front, makes it a bit more stable).

    T.W.R
    just so i can keep it all in one thread for future reference
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  5. #5
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    Just had a nosey at the link to trademe, it looks tidy enough Gamgee.
    the pipes aren't stock but thats to be expected though.

    The easiest way to check the rear linkage apart from a visual check (check for a rusty/brownish stain around the linkage knuckle & perished dust covers by the link pins) is to put the bike on the centre stand (as per the t/m pics) stand at the rear of the bike lean over the seat & grab the rear wheel with both hands and pull it up towards the guard ( there shouldn't be any noticeable slop/ notchy movement) it should feel as though your just compressing the suspension(smooth & firm).
    It would pay to check the head-bearings as well (can be prone to getting sloppy on a bike that age), either get someone to sit on the bike(on pillion seat) while its on the C/S so the fronts off the ground then turn the bars from lock to lock (should be smooth & firm) & also giggle back & forth (there shouldn't be any slop) another way is to grab the bars from the front hold the front brake on and pull the bike towards you (if the bearings are worn it will feel notchy.

  6. #6
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    yeah, I believe the gpx is quite similar to the zzr (I even have a front mudguard from a gpx on, when there weren't any zzr ones).

    Motor-wise (it apparently being the same as the zzr) I would seriously doubt the 185km/h figure. I have had mine to 160 flat tack down a small hill. On the flat, 150 is about it, on the tank.

    How much do you weigh?? Suspension is very soft on the zzr, just had mine hardened a lot. Otherwise, they are supposed to be a reliable bike, basically a slower version of the zxr type bikes.

    Not sure, but I think the US got the gpx, zzr is japan, but the US might have got the zzr, rebranded as EX... just guessing a bit
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  7. #7
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    [QUOTEMotor-wise (it apparently being the same as the zzr) I would seriously doubt the 185km/h figure. I have had mine to 160 flat tack down a small hill. On the flat, 150 is about it, on the tank.

    this was in the days when they were brand new fella, the ZZR250 is hauling around more weight plus more restrictive exhaust etc, ( almost detuned compared to the original GPXs)

    the GPX was only an update of the GPZ250 ( the oddly styled 1s) which were derived frin the original Z250 scorpion ( it was air cooled, & styled like the classic Zs)

    The 185kmh is from when they were new (its only 115mph) and at the time they were the top 4stroke 250 sportsbike on the block competing with 2strokes that were hitting the 200km+ zone. and 7yrs earlier the VT when released was the first 250 4stroke to do a genuine 100mph

  8. #8
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    thanks for all the info, so mechanically they sound pretty reliable, which is what i want, i'll make sure to check the things you've listed and will probably get the cam chain done as soon as i buy it, roughly how much will it cost to get a cam chain replaced on one of these (i can't do it myself)
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  9. #9
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    The GPX250 has the same engine as Yungatart's EL250. They are solid & reliable, but apparently prone to bottomend knock at idle when cold. I'm told this is normal & nothing to worry about. The petrol tanks on the GPX are bad for rust & replacement tanks that are any better are hard to find. As far as top speed - I'd say 150-160 should be about it. Talk to Speights_bud, he just bought one.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  10. #10
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    would welding up holes as they appear work? also what sort of price (roughly) would i be looking at to have a new cam chain fitted?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamgee
    thanks for all the info, so mechanically they sound pretty reliable, which is what i want, i'll make sure to check the things you've listed and will probably get the cam chain done as soon as i buy it, roughly how much will it cost to get a cam chain replaced on one of these (i can't do it myself)
    probably around the $90 mark for a chain & possibly a gasket(what ever the list price is for that?) depending on how efficient the shop is it shouldn't be more than a 2hr job so what ever the shops charge rate is?(the cost is in the strip-down & re-assembly)
    it would pay to check the wheel bearings & swingarm bearings as well.

    change the plugs, do an oil & filter change & check clean/or replace the air filter also.

  12. #12
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    yup yup yup, will do all that as soon as i get it, if i win the auction, it is definitely top priority on my watchlist right now, thanks guys
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamgee
    would welding up holes as they appear work? also what sort of price (roughly) would i be looking at to have a new cam chain fitted?
    hassle getting tanks welded (brazed), its mainly around the seams underneath. only happens when the tank has been run empty & left for ages etc, if its been continually used and kept reasonably full most of the time you wont have any probs

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.W.R
    hassle getting tanks welded (brazed), its mainly around the seams underneath. only happens when the tank has been run empty & left for ages etc, if its been continually used and kept reasonably full most of the time you wont have any probs
    yeah i'll be using it every day so it just depends what sort of treatment it's had from the previous owners i'll give the tank a decent look over as well, but from what you've said i'll probably buy it anyway and just stick a tank off a different bike on it or something (if i do run into problems)
    http://thenc30project.blogspot.com/

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  15. #15
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    just have a good perv inside the tank with a torch.And any bubbles in the paint along the seams externally is a sure sign of problems
    there is a tank additive you can get to cure any possible rust problems ( can't remember the name though, sorry)

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