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Thread: LED indicators problems

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    You need an LED flasher set for the lower current draw of the LEDs.
    Only if you have completely replaced all the bulbs on the circuit with LEDS. If you are still running bulbs then you don't need one. The fact that open side goes and the other doesn't suggests this is not needed.

    But the problem is that LEDs are polarity sensitive - I didn't know that until I recently wired in some LEDS - and they did not work.

    Swap the polarity on the left indicators - that will probably fix it. (Unless you've wired them in at a different place - I wired mine in on the circuit to each side ...)
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banditbandit View Post
    Only if you have completely replaced all the bulbs on the circuit with LEDS. If you are still running bulbs then you don't need one. The fact that open side goes and the other doesn't suggests this is not needed.

    But the problem is that LEDs are polarity sensitive - I didn't know that until I recently wired in some LEDS - and they did not work.

    Swap the polarity on the left indicators - that will probably fix it. (Unless you've wired them in at a different place - I wired mine in on the circuit to each side ...)
    Nah I reckon Imdying has the gist of it. And he'll need a LED suited flasher if that is the case.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  3. #18
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Yes, will need a LED flasher relay. The swap to LEDs causes the bimetal in a regular flasher relay to heat up too quick and thus flash too quickly. The LED ones are basically a small timer chip that does not rely on load to set the timing... which is why you lose your flash quickly when lamp is blown by changing to one... of course, the LED indicators should have an extremely long life time (assuming they're not bottom end Chinese tat) thus negating the problem.. although I believe some jurisdictions require that functionality for legal reasons, but I can't comment on whether NZ is one of those or not. You'd have to be an arsehole, or get an arsehole WOF man, to ever get nicked on that.

  4. #19
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    My guess would be a combination of the above.....

    left side indicators wired backwards so left side doesn't go and not drawing enough current to make the flasher work. Other way right hand indicators go and draw enough current for the flasher, right hand indicators can get enough through the dash indicator lamp to light up.

    Of course if I'm right, you may still end up with nothing lighting up due to not enough current being drawn by the flasher, but also possible you'll get all 4 all the time.

    This might help.....
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  5. #20
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    I've just had some issues with my LED ones, not related to OP but something to bear in mind anyway. A relay (I'm thinking solidstate not so much but they probably do it anyway) LED flasher still needs to do some current sensing to determine when it needs to flash, ie, when its output is actually connected to one side. Mine were quite intermittent, so have put small resistors (still a much larger resistance than the bulb) to just draw that little bit extra to ensure it triggers the current sensing circuit and makes em flash.

    And while tracing out the wiring on my 88 bros, it seems perfectly logical that the dash light could allow current to flow through all four and light em up.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  6. #21
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    The flasher relay I use ticks away consistently no matter if indicators are connected or not, Tridon LED04 iirc.

  7. #22
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    23rd March 2007 - 22:40
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    I think mitch has indicated his interest in this thread.....

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