The Bucket Foundry

[Flettner]

You're determined to make it look like a foul-stroke, aren't you Neil?
I imagine you won't be using a three-part water jacket any more then. I've never really understood why you chose that 3-part jacket for the present sliding cylinder.
I like the thought of using one tooth belt for the lot; it sort of brings KISS back into the idea.

The three sided jacket was about assembly, hard to slide orings over ports so I decided to pull the three sides in on the three exhaust orings, then push the whole cylinder assembly up a few mm to engage the last, large dia, crankcase/transfer oring port seal. I've done this type of thing before and it's turned to custard, orings don't like sliding over big holes while under assembled mechanical pressure. other reason.

This HCCI (AG100) is about ready to run again, only my big clumsy hands broke one of the rings. LS2 100, Yamaha, first oversize, thought I had two pistons and rings but do you think I can find the other set, answer, no. Still needs a longer belt and a 1/8 BSPT ball valve for the crank case drain. And a new phone so I can film it.

[ken seeber]

3 piece or 1 piece? Not sure what the winner is. The big test will be when trying to assemble. Do the O rings pop out into the exh passages? X rings may even be worse as the leading lip could more easily catch. Fortunately one can see up the exh passages and will be able to prod the rings as they pass over the openings, hopefully without damage. Obviously a nice gentle lead-in radius is needed plus lots of grease or rubber lube (KY jelly ? ) will be in order.

[speedpro]

feeler gauges or bits of shim may help as well

[Frits Overmars]

orings don't like sliding over big holes while under assembled mechanical pressure.

Understood. O-rings don't like sliding over holes, period. Carbon rings are better in that respect. Even if you spring-load their backsides they will have less friction than O-rings. And they can stand the heat better. Felix Wankel already used them in his rotary disc four-stroke heads where the rubbing speed was much greater than what you will ever have in your sliding cylinder layout.
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/wankel...-we-1671467222

[ken seeber]

Some sort of daily ritual.
Come home, look at the emails and, of course, Kiwibiker.
Grab a red
Pull the silder to bits and have a think. Current brain drain is about cooling the stationary head insert, catering for the various vertical positions of the sliding cylinder. Can see a 3D printed water deflector insert becoming useful. Once this is done and a couple of mods to the cylinder, it is then off to have the 3 off O ring grooves put around each exh outlet.

[Flettner]

Lucky, seems Australia has three sets of rings available and now I have one set on route to me. I will get Wayne at Blackwoods to fit the rings this time, after all they are Yamaha rings.

[ken seeber]

Slider update. The sliding cylinder is now out with a friend to have the 3 O ring grooves cut around each of the exhaust ports. When back, it goes off for plating.

Current thinking is about the head cooling. Below is a pic of the blank insert and cover plus a pic of the design of a 3D printed insert to help my old brain work visualize and out a flow path.



The issue being that when the liner is at its highest position that the top of the sealing band of the insert is buried around 10 mm below the top of the liner. The quick 3D printed insert inside the grey pipe (representing the liner) shows these dead areas.

[

If one had a very general, non- directional water flow, this wouldn’t provide any form of decent cooling of both the back of the squish band and also the plug thread. So, the solution, in my mind is for the head insert to have some vertical flutes within the 3 major reliefs to direct the flow, but in conjunction with a 3D printed directional flow device. Watch this space. As usual, time is the thing.

[Flettner]

Slider update. The sliding cylinder is now out with a friend to have the 3 O ring grooves cut around each of the exhaust ports. When back, it goes off for plating.

Current thinking is about the head cooling. Below is a pic of the blank insert and cover plus a pic of the design of a 3D printed insert to help my old brain work visualize and out a flow path.



The issue being that when the liner is at its highest position that the top of the sealing band of the insert is buried around 10 mm below the top of the liner. The quick 3D printed insert inside the grey pipe (representing the liner) shows these dead areas.

[

If one had a very general, non- directional water flow, this wouldn’t provide any form of decent cooling of both the back of the squish band and also the plug thread. So, the solution, in my mind is for the head insert to have some vertical flutes within the 3 major reliefs to direct the flow, but in conjunction with a 3D printed directional flow device. Watch this space. As usual, time is the thing.

What water pump are you using? Or just the hose for now?

This should wake the neigbours, just waiting for the LS2 rings.

[ken seeber]

What water pump are you using? Or just the hose for now?

This should wake the neigbours, just waiting for the LS2 rings.

Think that for first running (ie same as you with the HCCI) that I'll just cobble up a small aquarium pump, but for on a kart, probably will just use a common axle driven , via a belt drive, pump.

At least with your exhaust you should know if it is running, same as the rest of the population of Hamilton.

[ken seeber]

The huge part for the core box took 18,5h. The matrial cost is about 8 EUR.
I had to print the part skewed, because there is a printer limit with 200x200x180mm.

Polinizei,
Just wondering how you went with making the sand cores and if you ever did a complete casting?
Thanks
Ken

[lodgernz]

Neil, this is probably a silly question and I might be very embarassed by the answer.
I thought I was following this thread, but somewhere I missed the reason why your "ignition" piston has to run at twice engine speed?

[Flettner]

Neil, this is probably a silly question and I might be very embarassed by the answer.
I thought I was following this thread, but somewhere I missed the reason why your "ignition" piston has to run at twice engine speed?

No problem, I jump from poject to project so fast even I don't know whats going on most of the time. But in this instance I do, the little piston is required to raise the compression very quickly at just the right time hence the double speed. I may be fitting oval gears soon to get even faster rise time, but we will see how this goes first. Original proposal was for three times engine speed but I think that is just silly.

[polinizei]

Polinizei,
Just wondering how you went with making the sand cores and if you ever did a complete casting?
Thanks
Ken

Hi Ken,
instead of casting, I did a intensiv engmod review...
Since that session I'm redesigning my CAD drawingins, to solve my virtual issues.

[breezy]

The three sided jacket was about assembly, hard to slide orings over ports so I decided to pull the three sides in on the three exhaust orings, then push the whole cylinder assembly up a few mm to engage the last, large dia, crankcase/transfer oring port seal. I've done this type of thing before and it's turned to custard, orings don't like sliding over big holes while under assembled mechanical pressure. other reason.

This HCCI (AG100) is about ready to run again, only my big clumsy hands broke one of the rings. LS2 100, Yamaha, first oversize, thought I had two pistons and rings but do you think I can find the other set, answer, no. Still needs a longer belt and a 1/8 BSPT ball valve for the crank case drain. And a new phone so I can film it.

Neil, just watched your last video of the hcci engine, just before it broke it sounded like it was really getting going... what caused the rpm to pick up and start to race before it broke?

[Flettner]

Neil, just watched your last video of the hcci engine, just before it broke it sounded like it was really getting going... what caused the rpm to pick up and start to race before it broke?

The Ryger phemomenon

Don't know? I think I need a pressure transducer to find out, and some load. It's all ready to fire up again, just waiting on these LS2 rings.