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Thread: The Bucket Foundry

  1. #2311
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    Ok, EpoxAcast 655, not worth it. All it seems to want to do is stick to my molds, paint on able wax sort of works but can not be trusted. So I thought teflon spray, nothing sticks to that, wrong I found 655 will stick real well
    Buggered one of my port dies! As I've said ,that is why it's a good idea to put the original shape on the shelf, make a copy and use that. In this case the die is unrepairable so at least I can start again without having to make the original shape from scratch again.
    Today I learned of another resin called FG 130, apparently special for patternmaking like the Rencast. AND paint on able wax will work as a release agent. Saved

  2. #2312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Ok, EpoxAcast 655, not worth it. All it seems to want to do is stick to my molds, paint on able wax sort of works but can not be trusted. So I thought teflon spray, nothing sticks to that, wrong I found 655 will stick real well
    Buggered one of my port dies! As I've said ,that is why it's a good idea to put the original shape on the shelf, make a copy and use that. In this case the die is unrepairable so at least I can start again without having to make the original shape from scratch again.
    Today I learned of another resin called FG 130, apparently special for patternmaking like the Rencast. AND paint on able wax will work as a release agent. Saved
    I linked this earlier, it seems really inexpensive Neil, I don't know anything about it though.

    http://www.nzfibreglass.co.nz/2015/shopexd.asp?id=106



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #2313
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    I linked this earlier, it seems really inexpensive Neil, I don't know anything about it though.

    http://www.nzfibreglass.co.nz/2015/shopexd.asp?id=106
    Tried that, gets too hot (in thick sections) and shrinks too much, it's rubbish, can't be any good if it doesn't cost a lot, but thanks anyway. Am I heading out to Main Freight shortly, Husa?
    The key with pattern making resins is it can't shrink or expand because when you do a copy of a copy it needs to stay the same size. AND it needs to NOT stick to the mold it's in, quite important, a real bugger if it does!

  4. #2314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Tried that, gets too hot (in thick sections) and shrinks too much, it's rubbish, can't be any good if it doesn't cost a lot, but thanks anyway. Am I heading out to Main Freight shortly, Husa?
    The key with pattern making resins is it can't shrink or expand because when you do a copy of a copy it needs to stay the same size. AND it needs to NOT stick to the mold it's in, quite important, a real bugger if it does!
    from what I have seen all the proper casting resins have some metal in them such as Aluminium maybe time for DIY.
    As for mainfreight if I get fnished before dark tomorrow I will do some packing.


    https://www.smooth-on.com/products/task-18/

    OK it seems polyester is hot stinky sticky and not so dimensionally accurate
    It seems after a quick net troll it needs to be a urethane casting resin on the most part reinforced with Aluminium.


    https://www.fibreglassshop.co.nz/pro...casting-resins
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../0722301868041
    http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/smooth-cast-385/
    http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/smooth-cast-380/
    https://bjbenterprises.com/index.php...anes/castable/
    http://www.silpak.com/pdfs/SUPURCAST80PDS.pdf


    this is a very interesting product Neil
    http://www.speedliner.co.nz/hydrospan-100/

  5. #2315
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    There's a place near us that sells Rencast and lots of other related stuff

    http://www.kirkside.com.au/D125/rencast-fc52/

    That Hydrospan look interesting. I guess you'd need to experiment a bit to control the expansion accurately.

  6. #2316
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    http://www.motohistory.net/news2009/news-oct09.html
    Some rotary valve engines I have never seen.
    Some new to me as well.

    Surprised though that the Aspin valve is described as a "disk" when I would think of it as conical.

    More info and images of Aspin and many other rotary valves here:

    http://www.villiers.info/Aspin/AspinEssay/essay.htm

    http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/P...aryValveIC.htm

  7. #2317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Me too, I've been pondering over a modern triple myself. Every time I get enthusiastic I remember all the unfinished projects
    But In saying that I do have an interested party that want's one (as well as me) so the design process continues. First it was going to be a 1050cc three using my own cylinders off the 700 twin gyro engine, but then it got down graded to a 700 twin (with a balance shaft). BUT now it's down graded again to 480 three. I'm building a 160cc (58 x 58 ) cylinder to suit this bottom end bolted in the YZ250 frame, with just standard, modern, port arrangement (two versions, one a bridged port and one a single with eye ports). So three times 160 cylinders but in a line? Firing the two outside cylinders together and the middle one 180 degrees later, (better for mechanical balance) or turn it into a V?
    I'm keen on the three in line as it will be easier to make, center cylinder pointing backwards, water cooled cases, possible EFI too.
    But this is all just dream land at the moment.
    You know I do have these patterns here for a rotary valve 700 tandem twin engine (ex gyro engine ), can't help day dreaming about that as a street bike. Thin and lite, goobs of power
    Might be 153cc, not 160cc opps.
    I've played with the V idea and the inline. I had given up on the inline due to how much extra width it took but recently revisited the concept this weekend. A friend that played in the outboard world got me thinking about canting the cylinders 25 degrees or so. This allows the transfers to overlap. Look up the Mercury 1.5L Optimax series for a visual reference. When I tried this conceptually it took 40mm off the width and brought it to a point where the width was nearly the same as the V configuration I drew up. I was working with a 250cc single cylinder and believe I could make additional width improvements with a few tweaks. I was planning on a 750 and 900 triple using common cases.

    While mechanical balance is better as you described I was thinking of opting for the 120 layout. This would allow for a 3-1 pipe which would yield strong pulse tuning between the cylinders. This could provide a very broad power curve and help with packaging. Of course, I would also design so that I could fit 3 pipes in just in case!

    Paul

  8. #2318
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    Wouldn't exit direction waves cancel the returning wave?

    My head is turning inside out trying to visualize it.

  9. #2319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Tried that, gets too hot (in thick sections) and shrinks too much, it's rubbish, can't be any good if it doesn't cost a lot, but thanks anyway. Am I heading out to Main Freight shortly, Husa?
    The key with pattern making resins is it can't shrink or expand because when you do a copy of a copy it needs to stay the same size. AND it needs to NOT stick to the mold it's in, quite important, a real bugger if it does!
    I used to use araldite K83..... this: http://www.nuplexconstruction.com/pdf/Araldite_K83.pdf

    Which worked very well. Does get hot in large lumps, but all epoxies will to some extent and it wasn't a problem with sections 20mm thick. The exothermic over-reaction problem often starts in mixing it in a deep container, it needs to be in a shallow pool or it will take off.

    In fact I've probably still got some K83 somewhere. If so it'll be 5-6 years old but may be still good...
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  10. #2320
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by PVO View Post
    I've played with the V idea and the inline. I had given up on the inline due to how much extra width it took but recently revisited the concept this weekend. A friend that played in the outboard world got me thinking about canting the cylinders 25 degrees or so. This allows the transfers to overlap. Look up the Mercury 1.5L Optimax series for a visual reference. When I tried this conceptually it took 40mm off the width and brought it to a point where the width was nearly the same as the V configuration I drew up. I was working with a 250cc single cylinder and believe I could make additional width improvements with a few tweaks. I was planning on a 750 and 900 triple using common cases.

    While mechanical balance is better as you described I was thinking of opting for the 120 layout. This would allow for a 3-1 pipe which would yield strong pulse tuning between the cylinders. This could provide a very broad power curve and help with packaging. Of course, I would also design so that I could fit 3 pipes in just in case!

    Paul
    Have a look also at the Suzuki 750 triple which used twisted cylinders to narrow the block. I have some experience with the inline 180 degree triple layout - Laverda used it. Interesting....the 120 is easier to balance and the 3:1 pipe does work. Balancing using only crankwebs and retaining the same volumes for each crank chamber is way easier with the 120 layout too. Invariably with the 180 triple, the center webs must be heavier. Easy in a 4 stroke, but not so in a 2 stroke.

  11. #2321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Have a look also at the Suzuki 750 triple which used twisted cylinders to narrow the block. I have some experience with the inline 180 degree triple layout - Laverda used it. Interesting....the 120 is easier to balance and the 3:1 pipe does work. Balancing using only crankwebs and retaining the same volumes for each crank chamber is way easier with the 120 layout too. Invariably with the 180 triple, the center webs must be heavier. Easy in a 4 stroke, but not so in a 2 stroke.
    What about a counters had to balance, or have I got the purpose of them wrong?

  12. #2322
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    Quote Originally Posted by PVO View Post
    I've played with the V idea and the inline. I had given up on the inline due to how much extra width it took but recently revisited the concept this weekend. A friend that played in the outboard world got me thinking about canting the cylinders 25 degrees or so. This allows the transfers to overlap. Look up the Mercury 1.5L Optimax series for a visual reference. When I tried this conceptually it took 40mm off the width and brought it to a point where the width was nearly the same as the V configuration I drew up. I was working with a 250cc single cylinder and believe I could make additional width improvements with a few tweaks. I was planning on a 750 and 900 triple using common cases.

    While mechanical balance is better as you described I was thinking of opting for the 120 layout. This would allow for a 3-1 pipe which would yield strong pulse tuning between the cylinders. This could provide a very broad power curve and help with packaging. Of course, I would also design so that I could fit 3 pipes in just in case!

    Paul
    V3 is always going to be the best use of space
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Another possible layout is the trapiziod ala Kawasaki
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Kawasaki also had a project in the shadows that was altogether revolutionary, built around a liquid-cooled two stroke “trapezoid” configuration. A trapezoid, shown at the head of this story, has one side shorter than its opposite. The Kawasaki trapzoid engine, with the front bank of cylinders narrower than the rear, is shown below left of the trapezoid diagram.

    Pictures exist of this engine in mule chassis like both the H2 and the Z1 (the second and third photos above). But emission standards in the United States had begun to close the door on the big two-stroke. Kawasaki’s H2 was gone by 1977, and Suzuki’s Water Buffalo was finished by 1978. If Kawasaki entertained any serious plans to up the ante on its quick two-strokes, the success of the Z1 proved it unadvisable. The street-going trapezoid Kawasaki never saw the light of day.

    Later, in 1978, Kawasaki brought forward a trapezoid two-stroke again, but only for racing purposes (pictured above right). The inboard/outboard relationship of its cylinders was the opposite from the street prototype (the racing engine, shown left, had its narrower bank of cylinders to the rear), but it was clearly a continuation of the concept. Designated the 602S and intended to capture the World Formula 750 title, it was tested by Gregg Hansford, but never entered in competition. Those familiar with the machine say the “trapezoidal” geared crank configuration allowed for quick adoption of a vast range of different cylinder firing order.

    Unfortunately, having never been fully developed for street or racing use, the Kawasaki trapezoids remained trapped in time by the new rules of the EPA and the demise of Formula 750, the last season for which was 1979.

    For space saving ideas with the cranks look at these.
    The Yamaha 125/200 twin one, uses a griddle that doubles as the transfer walls
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    JBB V twin
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    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  13. #2323
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    For space saving ideas with the cranks look at these.
    Pretty sure that Jawa were the first to use that idea with their old 250 and 350 twins - well maybe just the 350 I dunno!
    Strokers Galore!

  14. #2324
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    For space saving ideas with the cranks look at these.
    The Yamaha 125/200 twin one, uses a griddle that doubles as the transfer walls
    Pretty sure that Jawa were the first to use that idea with their old 250 and 350 twins - well maybe just the 350 I dunno!
    No idea, I'm not even sure the pic on the right is a RD on the second look.
    but these ones are
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...hmentid=318039
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...hmentid=318032



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  15. #2325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yow Ling View Post
    The foundry or metal casting stuff thats been going on the the ESE thread really inspired me to get on with having a go at this stuff.
    If you can cast metal theres really not much you cant do. I dont think its going to be easy, most of it has been a bit of 2 steps forward 1 step back so far.


    left over vinamold ready for next time
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../9999311398357
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Toys/Compo.../9999296240922
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Toys/Compo.../9999916587573

    how does it compare price wise?

    As per discussion off the same site Neil
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../0639266764809
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../0661799648615
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../0661799648608
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../9999828024716
    http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Arts_Craft.../9999033065005



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

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