Side case came off again as the gear change mechanism was touching the case, just. See the balance shaft drive (and water pump)
Side case came off again as the gear change mechanism was touching the case, just. See the balance shaft drive (and water pump)
Exhaust stubs with high temp oring grooves machined in, crappy pictures, not sure why?
Neil, many of the foundry/tooling boards are said to be pretty abrasive on cutters, where the machinable wax is self-lubricating and easy on the cutting edges, while still giving a very good finish with dimensional stability. I don't want to wear out my small assortment of HSS tapered 3FL ball-end cutters any faster than I can avoid doing.
Plus it can be melted and recast into new blocks multiple times and additional wax in whatever size I need (or a less-expensive bag of bulk chips to make my own blocks) are just a few days away via a web order. So if I'd had a serious "oops" moment (nearly happened) I could have melted the wax down and started fresh with what I had on hand instead of potentially damaging some expensive Renshape and having to order more of it.
I also had some wax falling, as with the controls on a well-designed motorbike, readily to hand (and foot).
What plastic have you found is both easy to machine, holds up against sand abrasion, and is relatively inexpensive (keeping in mind that I can recover/reuse much of the wax swarf, where I presume other plastics would be scrap)?
cheers,
Michael
Acetal is a common plastic we use in our CNC, machines well, is stable, not abrasive but it does cost. Supplied in black, white and blue, not all in the same block![]()
I've used some acetal and it is nice, but I think it is more expensive than some metals (and the wax) if purchased new. At least the wax is reclaimable, I've got a container being filled with the clean swarf. I'll probably go with wood for more open-shape patterns that will be easy to hand-finish.
cheers,
Michael
I've used Acetal a lot over the years - It is great stuff for turning, milling etc. but it pays to clean up the swarf well when you are finished with it because hot metal chips falling on it are a hazard and the fumes produced will overwhelm you before you know it - as I found out for myself one one occasion!![]()
Strokers Galore!
Don't ever ask me to put your engine together! I'm looking at the photos of the sleeve engine, happily, then notice something. There seems to be a capscrew missing behind the clutch so this morning I pulled the clutch case off again and sure enough there was a hole where the capscrew should have beenhow did I miss that?
Now down to fueling, exhaust, ignition and starter. And put some oil in it I guess.
Once again I know this is not the forum to be talking about trail riding, BUT.
The F9 had another outing today at the Epic Events Taupo ride, still no DNF's, runs better than ever, way too much engine for this 1973 frame / setup. I haven't touched the EFI in ???? don't know when the computer was last plugged in?
It's nice to able to finally just haul it out, fuel it up (clean the air filters) and ride it. It is the most reliable F9 I have ever owned and by far the most powerful. Sorry just had to say it, must be the adrenaline still working.
I'd better ring up Kawasaki and tell them I've finally cracked the nut on the F9 350, they can now go ahead and put them back into production![]()
[QUOTE=WilDun;1130999530]I guess I'm just chirpy because I had such a good day. Couldn't help thinking about the 360 RV engine in the YZ 250 frame I've half finished / started, if it goes half as good as this F9 engine it will be a lot of fun to ride. maybe the next project to finish!!!!.
Dirtbikes are awesome, everyone should own one. I wish I had been able to start riding them before the 30yrs old I did
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
To be honest, it wasn't all plain sailing, drum brakes, anyone remember them? Half way round on the first circuit the engine started to labour after a long down hill, thought shit it's going to seize but as I pulled the clutch engine freed up and the bike stopped suddenly. Rear brake was jammed on! Kicked the leaver on the drum and we were away again, no more rear brake for the rest of that circuit. Luckily the full service workshop tool kit I take had enough spares to repair it for the next long loop. Mandatory for all Kawasaki owners![]()
But aren't they buggers of things (drum brakes) not much wear in the shoe and the actuator cam starts to overcenter, and jam up. In the old days I used to fit a sleeve over this cam to make it bigger for use with worn shoes so as to get the most usage out of the shoes. Might have to go there again! Aren't discs a giant leap forward. I guess I shouldn't grizzle as I see the hour meter is just on 70 hours now.
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