The Bucket Foundry

**Hemi Makutu** · 1st November 2016, 19:47

Well F, looking at the recently repro'd H2 heads/dry clutch conversion & what they go for..
Dunno about the nikasil bore though, due to sleeve thickness/rigidity issues on the H2.

These guys seem reasonable re-sleeve price-wise.. www.advancedsleeve.com

**ken seeber** · 3rd November 2016, 16:56

SLIDER EXHAUST(s): Here is one of the three, so hopefully before weekend get the laser cut items.

Been so bloody busy of late.

However Fletto, I had an idea. Could I send over the paper cones and get you to cast these (using the "yet to be perfected" lost paper investment casting technique) in 1.0mm malleable mild steel.

Thanks. Cheque is in the mail already.

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**Flettner** · 3rd November 2016, 17:02

No problem Ken, just send the papers and I'll roll them up, on the roller thingy.

**Hemi Makutu** · 3rd November 2016, 17:33

Dobee a doobee or what eh, Ken.. that's a real fat smoking requisite..

**Hemi Makutu** · 6th November 2016, 15:03

Seems there are sufficient numbers of classic Norton aficionados - willing to pay heaps for a repro cyl head production run...

http://roadnrace.com.au/servicing.php

For comparison, here is another Aussie made replacement head for a niche market, but for ~AU$ 3,000- you get quite a bit more stuff..

http://www.chiheads.com.au/shop/head...cylinder-head/

**Flettner** · 10th November 2016, 19:31

OK, back to cylinder making, no more riding for the F9 for a while. I will be casting in LM13 and as such am buying in some more ingots (40kg) ish. Anyone else want some? $5 a Kg to me plus GST I expect. There are mountains of it to be had as it was all headed to the Aussie car industry but not now. Anyway if interested PM me.

**Flettner** · 12th November 2016, 17:43

Water jacket pattern, made in thirds, easier to make.

**Flettner** · 13th November 2016, 18:40

Water core box bottom half made. Next step is to paint everything in wax then press the top half on with a shit load of Bondifill to take the shape. The gaps you can see in picture two are where the aluminium will fill (when the cores are sand) . The beads will go on top of these water core shapes once three are made (from this original core box) and glued in place.

**breezy** · 13th November 2016, 20:51

Originally Posted by Flettner

Water core box bottom half made. Next step is to paint everything in wax then press the top half on with a shit load of Bondifill to take the shape. The gaps you can see in picture two are where the aluminium will fill (when the cores are sand) . The beads will go on top of these water core shapes once three are made (from this original core box) and glued in place.

These patterns are killing me!!

i remember when leaving school i had a little exam with the construction industry training board to see if i was stupid enough to be trained as an electrician. they had one test that showed a shape and then five others of the same shape which had been rotated or shown in a different position, a small description of how the first shape had been moved around followed and you had to pick one of the following five which matched the description.. the examiner told me i had failed that particular test quite badly but still felt i was in fact stupid enough to have an apprenticeship. Every time i see these pattern shapes i have a flash back to then , my head starts screaming.. i still takes me an age to figure out how it all comes together. is it just me ?

**Flettner** · 14th November 2016, 11:36

Frits, this will be an interesting cylinder. It's your FOS but with some ryger high pressure ports as well, only three as the other three are direct to atmosphere. Might not be apparent yet but the under piston volume will be important. I've set it up so as to use the HCCI top end on it if I want to. Will use pulsed injection into the crank case (under piston) via the direct to cylinder ports. Direct to cylinder ports are double use, also piston port to the crank case. I think I've worked out how to promote HCCI using the squish area to safely stop it happening before TDC.
Breezy I too was dumb enough to be put into an apprenticeship. Headmaster said to me as I left high school 'well at least you won't be a drain on society' bastard

**Flettner** · 14th November 2016, 19:55

Now I can make as many cores as I want, sand or resin. The water core box is done.

**Frits Overmars** · 15th November 2016, 00:21

Originally Posted by Flettner

Frits, this will be an interesting cylinder. It's your FOS but with some ryger high pressure ports as well, only three as the other three are direct to atmosphere.
Might not be apparent yet but the under piston volume will be important.

Important as in 'big' or important as in 'critical' or important as in 'small'? In the latter case, will you also employ your epicycloid crankshaft?
In any case you're bringing together a lot of interesting ideas. Carry on!

**breezy** · 15th November 2016, 07:17

Originally Posted by Flettner

Frits, this will be an interesting cylinder. It's your FOS but with some ryger high pressure ports as well, only three as the other three are direct to atmosphere. Might not be apparent yet but the under piston volume will be important. I've set it up so as to use the HCCI top end on it if I want to. Will use pulsed injection into the crank case (under piston) via the direct to cylinder ports. Direct to cylinder ports are double use, also piston port to the crank case. I think I've worked out how to promote HCCI using the squish area to safely stop it happening before TDC.
Breezy I too was dumb enough to be put into an apprenticeship. Headmaster said to me as I left high school 'well at least you won't be a drain on society' bastard

Flettner, will you be injecting pre mix or just fuel? you mention crankcase.. will you not be isolating the traditional crankcase area?

**Flettner** · 15th November 2016, 07:30

Originally Posted by breezy

Flettner, will you be injecting pre mix or just fuel? you mention crankcase.. will you not be isolating the traditional crankcase area?

Yes there will be a separated crank case to under piston. I was just going to inject standard twostroke fuel (help the ring and just because) but ultimately it would be good to just use straight fuel. Start safe first.
The bloody epicycloid crank, the anodizes wreaked my alloy rod and I haven't made a new one yet. BUT I will as I need to use something to make the piston rod go straight up and down. I have another method (not the leaver arm/beam) but that will require starting from scratch, never the less a worthy opponent to the epicycloid I think.

**Frits Overmars** · 15th November 2016, 10:25

Originally Posted by Flettner

The bloody epicycloid crank, the anodizes wreaked my alloy rod and I haven't made a new one yet. BUT I will as I need to use something to make the piston rod go straight up and down. I have another method (not the leaver arm/beam) but that will require starting from scratch, never the less a worthy opponent to the epicycloid I think.

You sure do know how to keep me curious!