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Thread: The Bucket Foundry

  1. #3916
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    We used to hot water test our powder coated enclosures. Would get the pressure up to less than 10psi. That would push it's way past the paint. 100psi Should quite easily. Heck that could be dangerous if there was any volume.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  2. #3917
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Its usually a bit of air pressure and throw it in the water trough. My Auotgyro engine frames and forward masts are steel tube, fully seal welded and under pressure all the time as a crack detection system (small gauges fitted in the instrument pod) so it's important there are no leaks when manufactured. I put 100 psi in them and submerge them in the sheep trough (that would be the CAA certified pressure test regime), once sealed, good to be painted over.
    So every hour of every day these components are under pressure crack test. No pressure reading on the gadge, don't fly untill you know why.
    I know, slightly off subject.
    Fairly common on big crane masts, with inert gas under pressure and a transducer for every tube section. Some of them have pre-defined safe zones, and if a pressure drops the PLC moves the load over the safe zone and puts it down, regardless of what the operator's doing.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  3. #3918
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Ok, time to get serious, out with the old Heath Robinson furnace and in with the new. Old furnace did its job but it's time is up. Two crucibles so if there is a cock up on a weeked pour, (shit happens) I have a spare.
    Bags are furnace linner cement, they don't give this shit away!
    So, turns out the supplier under supplied.
    Should have been 16 bags, but olny shipped 10.
    Good way to make money I guess.
    Anyway it has taken this long to supply the last six bags, lucky it wasn't urgent, buggers.
    Might be a furnace building weekend at last.

  4. #3919
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    Anyone tried this filament material, looks like it might be useful? Interesting that he does a quick brush on plaster coat first, probably a good way to ensure no bubbles form on the surface.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjDfApnS_b0&t=302s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeTp...ature=youtu.be
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  5. #3920
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Anyone tried this filament material, looks like it might be useful? Interesting that he does a quick brush on plaster coat first, probably a good way to ensure no bubbles form on the surface.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjDfApnS_b0&t=302s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeTp...ature=youtu.be

    I spent quite a bit of time trying to get wax to print well and finally gave up. it does not do overhangs well at all, bed adhesion was a nightmare, and even at it's best the surface finish was not all that good. The larger and taller the part was, the more of a mess it became.

  6. #3921
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    Quote Originally Posted by OopsClunkThud View Post
    I spent quite a bit of time trying to get wax to print well and finally gave up. it does not do overhangs well at all, bed adhesion was a nightmare, and even at it's best the surface finish was not all that good. The larger and taller the part was, the more of a mess it became.
    OCT, it sort of looked good, but yu never know. We tried some stuff called Moldplay a few years ago, had some success, but were time limited. Dragged it out today to show someone, and it was brittle. Tried to unroll it and it just broke into pieces. Will concede "operator error" on my part in terms of correct storage, maybe under nitrogen to keep out oxygen etc.,

    Can't stop thinking of some simple pure wax deposition process. Advantages being low melt temp, possible easy polishing and easy burnout, but the same disadvantage as PLA in that you have to print the whole thing (days + at a small Z increment, say 0.05, but obviously model size dependent, thinking of a 125 cc cylinder here)
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  7. #3922
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    Moldlay looks like the easiest to print of the readily obtainable filaments. Polycast looks better, but I don't know where to buy it. Maybe you could get a sample from the manufacturer.

    Lohring Miller

  8. #3923
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    Quote Originally Posted by lohring View Post
    Moldlay looks like the easiest to print of the readily obtainable filaments. Polycast looks better, but I don't know where to buy it. Maybe you could get a sample from the manufacturer.

    Lohring Miller
    Lohring, the Polycast looks to be the good oil. Have emailed them as to the best way to get some. Cheers for that.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  9. #3924
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    i watched a tv program the other that showed how the make cast bronze/tungsten drill heads for oil drilling etc.
    they just milled out blocks of graphite to the shape filled them with powered tungsten and bronze and then placed the whole mold in a furnace at 1100 or so degrees.
    the tungsten doesn't melt at this temp but mixed with the bronze to from some sort of matrix. they then glued in the diamond cutters.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  10. #3925
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    These guys have a metal printing system for FDM printers, but I'm not sure it's easier or better than investment casting a printed object. I have a burn out furnace and am tempted to try either the bronze or stainless steel filament for model race boat propellers.

    Lohring Miller

  11. #3926
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    Kind of related...

    https://youtu.be/JQ-ZdoXqHOQ

  12. #3927
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    Whilst not completely trembling out of control with excitement (or even more), I am now waiting on getting a Creality3D CR-10S Pro 3D Printer and, separately, a roll of Polycast filament.
    Next thing is to work out a coating system. Some use a simple plaster coating backed with sand, others just use a total mould of plaster (or 50:50 sand plaster mix) and then there's the classic "lost wax" ceramic coating. Bit keen on the latter, so if anyone has a recipe for this, I'd be keen.
    First up, need to make a cylinder head coolant flow guide for the Slider engine using ABS, then it's into the world of Polycast.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  13. #3928
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Whilst not completely trembling out of control with excitement (or even more), I am now waiting on getting a Creality3D CR-10S Pro 3D Printer and, separately, a roll of Polycast filament.
    Next thing is to work out a coating system. Some use a simple plaster coating backed with sand, others just use a total mould of plaster (or 50:50 sand plaster mix) and then there's the classic "lost wax" ceramic coating. Bit keen on the latter, so if anyone has a recipe for this, I'd be keen.
    First up, need to make a cylinder head coolant flow guide for the Slider engine using ABS, then it's into the world of Polycast.
    Ken, good luck with this new stuff, those printers seem to be very popular with their simplicity and price, (it seems to be a good, 'no bullshit' machine).

    I have just bought a little one, it's a Malyan 200, cheap, small (120 x 120 x 120), but adequate for what I will be doing, ie small 'lost PLA' castings.
    It's a good design concept, however it is shoddily built - (you do tend to get what you pay for) - but there's nothing that can't be modified or fixed - I don't want to go through the hassle of sending it back to HK! - I am very happy with how it's working, a lot still to learn though!

    Slowly coming to grips with Learning Fusion 360 - to me it's mind blowing! all very interesting and good for foundy projects.

    Wish I had the facilities and space to do it all like Neil has done but i don't have any of this ..... or time left!

    Good luck, keep going!
    Strokers Galore!

  14. #3929
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    YouTube is your friend for learning Fusion 360. My favorite channels are Lars Christensen to get started and Two Stroke Stuffing for how to draw transfers and exhaust passages.

    Lohring Miller

  15. #3930
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    Quote Originally Posted by lohring View Post
    YouTube is your friend for learning Fusion 360. My favorite channels are Lars Christensen to get started and Two Stroke Stuffing for how to draw transfers and exhaust passages.

    Lohring Miller
    Lohring, the Lars youtubes are really good. However, after looking at these for a bit, I think I'll stick with an old version of Solidworks as my old brain has limited skills these days. Also, my son has a really good knowledge of S/W, so I can use him as a backup.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

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