Hardcore Biker
Neil, is the hoist just for the lid or also for the crucible?....looks to be of industrial strength...
Lohring, that's clever, but with an FDM the inserted part must be no higher than the top surface of the print at that time..
Have look at this one, looks like he is getting it pretty much right now..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YWukB0B404 Some good R&D for us...
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
L-Plate Rider
Hey,Originally Posted by Michael Moore
You are talking about photogrammetry here! Go to youtube and type "prusa photogrammetry", watch part II and be amazed!
Few years ago I tried it first time but did managed to achieve nothing. It just was too difficult. Now I did take second try with it and I'm just amazed how much programs have developed since then. Now the hardest part is to download and install meshroom.
Haven't used photogrammetry on two-strokes yet but most certainly will some day.
Forum whore
That's great!
Hardcore Biker
That video and the Meshroom website show a much improved product over some that I saw several years ago.
But it still only gives a mesh/point cloud that has to be processed for CAD surfacing if using it to create a CAD model is the goal. I didn't see any information on how accurate the mesh is to an original, and it appears to have similar problems to light scanners with wanting a certain texture/color/other factors for an optimum result. I think there was mention that the mesh created is without scale so you'd need to find features where you know the accurate distance between them to let you scale the mesh, where laser scanners are often at a .1mm accuracy or better on the mesh that is created from them.
But since far more people have access to a camera than a scanner, and just want to get something they can print at home, this seems to offer a great deal for a free product.
thanks for letting me know about it,
cheers,
Michael
Fair weather rider
Regarding the durability/suitability of PLA for patterns I took a good look at them after use. The issue with the core box where I thought I had scratched it while ramming them up, turned out to be lines from printing that I had failed to fill/sand. Other than that they worked fine and were rather quick to produce. I use the tetrahedral infill in cura with a 4mm spacing to give them good strength and print at a really slow speed with a setting to keep the nozzle always inside to body of the part. This minimizes the blemishes on the surface that have to be cleaned up. Then finished them with spot putty, primer, and sanding to get a smooth surface.
Next time I'll probably do a match board or at least mold in the runner and gates, did that for the riser and it worked very well. The pouring basin was a last minute idea the day before. printed it as fast as I could and hoped it worked, it did, so I'll be making a second rev a bit nicer.
Working on the fixtures now to finish the manifolds and should have them done next weekend.
Muddler/Dabbler.
Try and try as you might, but it just won't work! …..... what won't work? you ask - trying keep a good guy down won't work!- well done ALEX
Strokers Galore!
Hardcore Biker
Amongst other things, eg staying alive, we have been working on a cylinder head for son Brett's KTM 250 engined kart. One prime issue was that the head outlet faced forward, to suit the bike's radiators. Some simply reverse the head, allowing the coolant to basically escape the head without passing thru the single pass passages. Dumb, but there you go.
So we have been working on the design of a double pass coolant head, allowing the outlet to face rearwards to suit the kart installation. With the help of a certain Dominik, the design has been done in SolidWorks. For me though, I think it is well worthwhile to be able to "look, touch, feel" every now and then rather than just a screen. Enter the 3D printer.
Just did a half in PLA. 4.5 hours later @ 0.2 Z increments & $1.70 in filament, we have one.
Design is not final, with some small tweaks req'd.
Obviously designing is one thing, but one still has to make it.
2 main choices: lost PLA or casting wax type filament, or classic moulds using cope and drag with separate cores. As the cores will be fairly delicate, I don't think any cold box sand cores will do, given that we'd make coreboxes for these using 3D prints. So, I am thinking progressing the plaster approach as I posted a few times ago. How many we might make, ranging from just one, is a factor in deciding in how to make it. Certainly Alex on his "2 stroke stuffing" Youtubes is doing well with the lost PLA method.
Anyways, was nice to see the printer working, doing a good job without supports. A Creality CR10S Pro with Cura 3.6.0 win64 slicing software
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
Forum whore
An example of a similar solution by www.emot.nl
Fair weather rider
Finished up the MotoBi manifold and got it mounted on the bike.
Forum whore
real nice, looks like they machined well.
Anorak
How much angle can you get of those Yohi carb before they start floodingFinished up the MotoBi manifold and got it mounted on the bike.
Looking at them they always looked to be derived more from a Keihin PWK can the normal Yoshimura Mikunis
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Fair weather rider
It's angled down at 50°, float bowl is level at that angle so no drips. They are base on a PWK, I can take some detail shots if you're interested.
Anorak
yeah that would be neat
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Muddler/Dabbler.
Ken, still got bed adhesion probs or have you got that sorted? I had no problems till I lost the roll of tape I got from Bunnings. Got some masking tape from the local paint shop (Sellotape brand) - bloody useless, kept lifting! - Back to Bunnings and got a roll of (Scotch brand) masking tape - all fine again!
BTW, my old computer (C/W with a copy of Solid Works already installed by the previous owner) finally bit the dust! - bugger!
Strokers Galore!
Hardcore Biker
Will, certainly had a few issues initially, but I think it was down to:
1. Setting the print head height to ensure the first layer is of correct thickness.
2. Clean the bed surface every time with a wipe of isopropyl alcohol
3. Preheat the bed, in my case to 70 deg C
4. Giving the nozzle a few manual feeds beforehand to ensure it is all flowing well after soaking at 200 deg C.
Loss of SW is a nuisance, but I thought you were on Fusion 360.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
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