The Bucket Foundry

[WilDun]

I'm thinking it must take a lot of back to front thinking! but I guess it becomes easier when you've had a lot of practice.
However, I certainly won't be taking on making complicated cores like that for a while!
Will you be making any of the cores (ports) as separate pieces to be glued in place to the main core later?

[Flettner]

Core box production

Should end up with a core box like this. This is the 360 engine core box.

[WilDun]

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words!

[Flettner]

Down to the last piece of the puzzle, tommorw perhaps.



Then on to the transfer core boxes, Macrocarpa from my extensive wood pile.



This is the weapon of choice to shape all the wood pieces. 3HP three phase with a micro drive all sitting on a Fordson Major gearbox housing. Full adjustable angle plate out front. 600mm Dia disc, all made of bits found lying around.

[WilDun]

Useful looking beast!
Looks like all your cores use tapered core prints, guess it must take a lot of accuracy ( in coreboxes and patterns) to get the cores to mate up with the prints in the pattern cavities (lengthwise)? - if that makes sense

[Flettner]

As you will see, this core print accuracy is not a problem. The pattern is made from copies made from the core boxes, so everything will line up, no matter how bad the manufacture is.

[WilDun]

As you will see, this core print accuracy is not a problem.

I believe I can learn something here!

[Flettner]

Cylinder core box finaly finished.





Die grinding out the wood blocks to fill with Bondi, then press in transfer port shape, pre waxed.

[ken seeber]

Neil,

Are you a CO2 or a Fenotec sand man?

Ken

[Flettner]

Fenotec, you need to buy 20L at a time and it has a shelf life so I don't use it now.
CO2 sand is not as strong but cheaper for me. Both these systems are more prone to gasing (when casting) and are less permable ie make more gas and have more trouble getting rid of it.
I like to use Shell molding sand system but you need metal dies to set the stuff in. It doesn't gas nearly as bad and is very porous to let gas out.
So for now probably CO2 sand and pre heat the mold before pouring.

[Yow Ling]

I havnt contributed much for a while, so I am starting my foundry work with a small job.

The project is a thumb choke, Diesel Pig has one on his bucket and its pretty cool, he had a spare from his TZ which he haslent me to try and copy
Its entirley possible I will cock it up, but sucess is a poor teacher.
The assembled Thumb Choke


Two main parts , the bracket and the lever


made some bungs to fill the big holes


then bogged up everywhere cable slots etc


Tomorrow I will do a bit of sanding and a bit more bog to enable the plug to be removed from the sand
Thats it for today, hopefully Ill get some more done tomorrow night

[Flettner]

Where would we be without Bonifil.

[WilDun]

[QUOTE=Yow Ling;1130769712]I havnt contributed much for a while, so I am starting my foundry work with a small job.
/QUOTE]

Good to see you back.

[Flettner]

Pour a new mould from the core box







These will be used to build the actual pattern. The core boxes will sit on the shelf for now until required to make the sand cores.



The original parts used to build the core boxes are on the shelf never to be used again unless somthing gets very wrong and I need to remake the core boxes.

[Yow Ling]

Now back to beginners class

Using Flettners copy technique I made a mould of the 2 parts
the lever is easy it can be cast in an open mold like an ice block, the pedastal is a bit harder as it gets a top and bottom mould
I have finished the bottom , and will get onto the top shortly. I was a bit worried the plugs wouldnt come out but they did without too much damage.



I will use this mould to make some copies which I will use to cast from , then give Diesel Pig his parts back before I ruin them