Erm no it has a nice leather belt if that helps.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Erm no it has a nice leather belt if that helps.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Bogeyman
That old eh? I have used flat belts, but I must admit it's been a while.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Easy to slip from one pulley to the next to change speed. Not sure how I'd replace it.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Bottom cases for the sleeve engine ( and FOS cylinder ).
Black stuff is graphite powder to make everything non stick and slippery, to aid the pattern extraction.
Off to Heat Treatments on Monday.
Forum whore
Yes the thermal wrap does deteoriate but yes easy to fix.
I won't be making Autoflight gearboxes from this furnace, not good enough quality ( I'm a bit rough ).
Right, now to finish some cylinders I started making a while ago, I'm going to have a rehash of the RG cylinder as I think I can do a much better job now.
Muddler/Dabbler.
I see you have added risers to the patterns, are they made of ceramic wool too?
Looks like I won't be trying any casting for a day or two (weather), the first pours will be very simple ones of course, but I do need to get familiar with using the gear and acquire the feeling for pouring first, as I'll most likely try it at home by myself before I move it out to the country.
However, I've really got to take the plunge soon or I'll be written off as a "gunna".
Forum whore
The J61W sand Flettner uses is available from Placemakers, so not necessary to have it shipped from Auckolofa
My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues
Forum whore
CNC is busy doing real jobs so I had use the boring and facing head, only problem is it's slow.
Anyone for a 1400cc square four?
These are the LM13 cylinders back from Heat Treatments
Cases ready to line bore the crank, output shaft bearing housings and balance shaft housing.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Sounds promising, what's the fuel economy like?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
economy is not a word you would use with such an engine.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Castings look pure where they have been machined, fantastic stuff.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Yes I'm real happy with the alloy quality, you have got to get lucky sometimes ( don't you? ). It's all responded to heat treating well.
I'm useing grain modifyers, degassing tablets and not overheating the brew, this must help.
Forum whore
Raided the bee hive yesterday, lots of yummy honey but with that comes bees wax, excelent for lost wax castings ( minimal shrinkage ).
Muddler/Dabbler.
From my experiments I found that wax derived from palm trees was the strongest but it also had high shrinkage, also it was too quick to solidify, so maybe the beeswax could counteract this, - good old beeswax, I didn't realize it had a very low shrinkage rate! - thanks.
I tried the hard "plastic" crayons which my grandkids used at school for some of the ingredients - (didn't nick them from the school though) bought them from the Warehouse and I did actually come up with a useable machinable wax.
By the time I had finished buying all the ingredients in small quantities though, I found that I might as well have gone to the foundry supplier and bought the ready made stuff!
Not sure on lost wax casting with this stuff, because it seems that as well as high shrinkage with hard wax, there is also high expansion when heating, therefore cracking the moulds when heating them up to de-wax. - nearly as complicated as modifying two strokes!
Hardcore Biker
Fellers, your timing is good. We are doing a little project where we have 3d printed out some short manifold stubs. We then created a 2 piece mould using a Vinamold equivalent, creating the inside and outside shapes of the printed item. Then into the cavity (after the printed item was removed) we poured in moulding wax. Beautiful, good surface reproduction etc.
Then what to do next. Firstly we set the wax model into a plaster/sand/water mix. After semi drying for a day or so, we put it into an oven and gradually melted out the wax, going finally to around 110 deg. The wax appeared to be basically melted out, but there was still a surface residue. Anyways, as we were doing a piston cast, we put the plaster mould on the furnace and its temp probably was around 250 or so. Then we splashed some metal in. Started off ok, but then lots of bubbles and aeration of the metal, and no minor shortage of thick smoke.
When cool, we broke away the plaster and one could see that the casting started off ok at the bottom, but went to shit further up. The plaster though, showed that the wax had permeated into the surface to a depth of around 10 mm or so. I guess this was the cause of the problem as it was heated and started to vaporise and burn. Maybe we should have baked the plaster to a mush higher temp, say 600 or so, before casting to burn off all the wax within the plaster
The other option was to invest the wax,. However with some investment we have here, as soon as the wax item is removed, the investment just runs off. Sort of what you'd expect. So, to counter this, the advice was to cover the wax with shellac. However, even this is not great with the investment, which is water based, still running off.
Thoughts?
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
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