Didn't watch it but Brake cleaner is apparently hideously poisonous if you spray metal & weld so avoid, it & big heat.
Didn't watch it but Brake cleaner is apparently hideously poisonous if you spray metal & weld so avoid, it & big heat.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Brake cleaner and argon or argoshield combined and heated makes phosgene gas, I think
Aye, serious shit: http://www.brewracingframes.com/safe...sgene-gas.html
There may be very little chance of me putting myself in that position but the consequences are dire enough that I don't have it in the workshop at work.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
Before we get too excited here there is I repeat no argon involved in the casting.
![]()
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Back in town. The video was pretty good, old mate seems to know his stuff. When I saw brake cleaner, I automatically thought of using metho, same as Willy. Schnapps is for drinking I believe.
Over here, we get particle board (or chipboard) and then MDF which is harder and denser. This is not too bad in that the centre is reasonably well packed. The bloke next to us does a lot of CNC routing, and the sheets are held down by vacuum. However, to allow the cutters to go slightly beyond the thickness of the material being cut (chipboard, MDF, plastics and aluminium etc), he uses a sacrificial board of 5 mm chipboard on top of the machine bed, that eventually has to be replaced after it gets too many cutter paths in it. The point of this is that the 5 mm chipboard is porous enough to allow a vacuum (of unknown pressure) to be maintained between it and the job, despite the various leakages. Bit of trivia really.
While in the good old mother country, I went to the Imperial Science Museum and had a squiz at the steam section, you know, James Watt and all his mates. There was a model of a beam engine. See pics at various positions. Quality is poor due to it being in a glass case. There is a linkage mechanism there which seems to provide some sort of compensation allowance for the radius of swing of the beam so that it provides a planar force onto the end of the piston rod. Can't see it doing 30k though.
CO2 sand. My experience is that a sand core, once gassed, does not have a very long life before it begins to lose its strength and is easily crumbled. This might be a matter of hours or a half day or so, possibly dependent on temps and humidity. Is this your experience Neil? Shell cores are great, they last forever, but need heat and metal moulds. I guess it, as always, is dependent on the job, design maturity and quantities etc.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
Its not the argon Argon. Its the heat.
Keep Solvents Away From Flames and Heat Do not use or store chlorinated solvents near open flames or excessive heat (such as ovens, furnaces, space heaters, welding operations and pilot lights). When solvent vapors are exposed to extreme heat, they can decompose, yielding highly corrosive or toxic products such as hydrogen chloride, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and chlorine, which can create greater hazards than the solvent itself, including metal corrosion in the workplace and toxicity to employees. Under certain conditions such as welding, very low levels of phosgene may form. http://www.dow.com/webapps/lit/litor...1.pdf&pdf=true
![]()
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Yes I can't see Argon doing much damage but the heat produced from the argon arc welder may do, when combined with this stuff! - quite honestly it's bloody frightening!
I have been exposed to a lot of dangerous chemicals in my lifetime - hasn't killed me ....yet, - However, I have had a very rough ride health wise and although I can't actually say that it's caused by any of these things without clear proof, I'm fairly convinced that they have caused many of my problems.
So, what I would like to say is that anyone who is a smartass and ignores the warnings (and there are plenty of warnings these days, more than we had) is flirting with health problems, or even an early death - ignoring warnings doesn't mean you are clever or brave, it means you are bloody stupid!
Ok, (now that I've stepped down from my soap box), where was I? - yes, does anyone know what type of wood I posted in those pictures?
Give it the spark test![]()
The pattern maker I used to work with used only kiln dried pine. It glues well shapes well with the sanding disc (not so good for turning unless you glue segments around in a ring so the grain runs all the same way, this is how it should be done anyway. Bondi sticks well and paints with 2K primer/filler very well.
If you want real nice stuff to turn use Armorboard and glue bits together with 24Hr two pot high strength glue (arildite). It turns a little like free machining alloy. It's what I use in the CNC to machine patterns from solid.
In saying all that I do use whatever wood I can so long as its dry and not full of natural oils like Kauri.
There is a picture of the sanding disc earlier in this forum, somewhere? That is what should be used when pattern making, Yow Lig has one.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks