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Thread: The Bucket Foundry

  1. #1396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Zurg replica, made in casting resin.
    I see you are using good "premium" quality bog!
    You seem to be using quite a few varieties of wood in that corebox too - which one do you find to be best for machining?
    Guess I shouldn't pry as to how that inlet/transfer system works, (it's way above my head so far), but it sure looks interesting, I have some clues but not quite enough to finalise it all in my mind!
    I do hope though that it doesn't need conventional chambers as well! - would mean a lot of bulky pipework and accessories to be added I should think, (but then of course I realize it's all still in the early experimental stages).

  2. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post
    I see you are using good "premium" quality bog!
    You seem to be using quite a few varieties of wood in that corebox too - which one do you find to be best for machining?
    Guess I shouldn't pry as to how that inlet/transfer system works, (it's way above my head so far), but it sure looks interesting, I have some clues but not quite enough to finalise it all in my mind!
    I do hope though that it doesn't need conventional chambers as well! - would mean a lot of bulky pipework and accessories to be added I should think, (but then of course I realize it's all still in the early experimental stages).
    The wood I'm using is just what I had around, some Rimu I think and some pine. Kiln dried pine (or just old stable dry pine as you might find in junked couches etc ) is best to work with and glue / bondifill.

    How does it work? Don't laugh, it's just an experiment, uses a high pressure crank case pump. I can do this because there is now no crank case involved and under the piston I can stuff right up. This is not ideal as to total gas transfer (high pressure, low volume) but this system has reeds to allow augmentation ie draw more fuel air in after the initial charge is shot out into the chamber, that part is not visible yet.
    The "ears" are extra high timing ports (with non return valves, reeds) that should allow more air only gas flow at higer engine speeds. The short chamber under the reeds will pressureise with exhaust gas then as cylinder pressure drops will empty into the cylinder. This and chamber activity should help these ports draw.
    The combustion chamber part of the cylinder is missing as it will be bolted on afterwards with the in cylinder ring sandwiched in, piston will have no rings.
    Clear as mud?

  3. #1398
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    The wood I'm using is just what I had around, some Rimu I think and some pine. Kiln dried pine

    How does it work? .......... uses a high pressure crank case pump. I can do this because there is now no crank case involved and under the piston I can stuff right up. This is not ideal as to total gas transfer (high pressure, low volume) but this system has reeds to allow augmentation ie draw more fuel air in after the initial charge is shot out into the chamber,........
    The "ears" are extra high timing ports (with non return valves, reeds) that should allow more air only gas flow at higer engine speeds. The short chamber under the reeds will pressureise with exhaust gas then as cylinder pressure drops will empty into the cylinder. This and chamber activity should help these ports draw.........
    piston will have no rings.

    Clear as mud?
    Kauri seems to be a good fine grained timber which turns quite well, but there seems to be quite a wide variety of pine which I have to sort through, some useless some good, but I'll get there.

    Yes, clear as mud for the moment! but I now have it registered in my mind which will tend to quietly work on it without my knowledge. but I suspect that harmonics comes into play here big time! (and that's something which I know virtually nothing about).

    However,it seems that there is also a missing link somewhere, which I probably didn't discover because I stopped looking at the ESE thread way back ( in order not to clutter my feeble brain with too much stuff) and it would seem that I missed out all the important stuff that came online.

    So, I'm completely in the dark regarding the oilless "crank"? or whatever it actually might be. I did think it was a joke at first!
    In fact, I'm still not fully convinced that it isn't! - but if it is for real, (and going by the sparse information I have), then it's some sort of "straight line" mechanism driving an output shaft and which involves gears or levers, but I can't for the life of me think of anything transmitting straight line forces to a revolving shaft which could run without oil! - but maybe they are seperated from the gases by labyrinth seals? - or again, maybe there are miracles!

    Unfortunately, I am not a great fan of going back and plodding my way through all the back posts to pick out all the relevant material from reams of sundry tuning stuff, also other crap - I need to use my precious time in the workshop and not on the computer, this is the only time I have left, after family matters etc.

    Regarding the chambers with the reeds, ....... I seem to remember that the early racing two strokes of the sixties (Suzuki, MZ etc.) tried using the back boost port in this fashion - ie. it opened ahead of the exhaust port to pressurise the crankcase and force the charge into the cylinder but didn't (as far as I know anyway) take in extra air into the cases.

    I also seem to remember that some model aircraft engines from that era used something called "supplementary sub piston air induction" - the air came in under the piston skirt when it momentarily exposed the exhaust port (it was just a port - no pipe). - that idea seemed to disappear though!
    These arrangements of course were not the same as your idea here, but possibly they may have a few similarities.

    I really don't expect that you'll want to give away all your secrets either! so I need to assure you that I won't tell a soul, (not that anyone in my family would even notice if I did tell them - all bean counters etc.).


  4. #1399
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    Will, you are right, there is a little more I'm not saying but I need to be sure of what I'm saying before I open my mouth.
    I'm organizing the water core at the moment, a little tricky.

  5. #1400
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    I dont rember seeing it on here but this is quite cool, Gilera 4 being made from a 175 single, bit of casting in this
    http://www.pacarweb.com.ar/Cuatroingles.html
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  6. #1401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    I dont rember seeing it on here but this is quite cool, Gilera 4 being made from a 175 single, bit of casting in this
    http://www.pacarweb.com.ar/Cuatroingles.html
    Thats pretty incredible. Using the cases gives it a little air of authenticity as well
    Neil how come you never "adjust it the conjunts"
    A French guy that's something like nouieger used to do similar and more he had Jow Crai sold on a four he made but Joe couldn't get it past the board
    I will post it in multispage when JAW has gone.



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  7. #1402
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilDun View Post

    So, I'm completely in the dark regarding the oilless "crank"? or whatever it actually might be. I did think it was a joke at first!
    In fact, I'm still not fully convinced that it isn't! - but if it is for real, (and going by the sparse information I have), then it's some sort of "straight line" mechanism driving an output shaft and which involves gears or levers, but I can't for the life of me think of anything transmitting straight line forces to a revolving shaft which could run without oil! - but maybe they are seperated from the gases by labyrinth seals? - or again, maybe there are miracles!
    Like this Will? This is the bottom end I will be using, there is witch craft and hobbits inside, also an oil pump. The tube does 52mm stroke, piston will be attached to the tube. Cylinder is designed to bolt on the top (four 8mm threaded holes). Bottom end is fully oiled, top end is dry, fuel only, nothing touching in the top end. In this unit I can adjust the possition of the stroke on the fly by 2mm. It certainly isn't pretty Oh and a plastic flywheel.
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  8. #1403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    I dont rember seeing it on here but this is quite cool, Gilera 4 being made from a 175 single,
    Helluva dedication required there! - probably harder to do than starting something from scratch!

  9. #1404
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Like this Will? This is the bottom end I will be using, In this unit I can adjust the possition of the stroke on the fly by 2mm. It certainly isn't pretty
    Yes, I remember now! the crank with the 'beam' or 'rocker" type operation, straight line? - I think there was a swinging link at one end?
    It's fun when all these little (apparently orphan) pictures floating in your head decide to come together! - hope I'm assembling them (ie the pictures) correctly!
    The plastic flywheel could be forgiven ie if it's not PVC!

  10. #1405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Like this Will? This is the bottom end I will be using, there is witch craft and hobbits inside, also an oil pump. The tube does 52mm stroke, piston will be attached to the tube. Cylinder is designed to bolt on the top (four 8mm threaded holes). Bottom end is fully oiled, top end is dry, fuel only, nothing touching in the top end. In this unit I can adjust the possition of the stroke on the fly by 2mm. It certainly isn't pretty Oh and a plastic flywheel.
    Nothing unusual for you then. Wil' missed the "plastic flywheel" joke.

  11. #1406
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Nothing unusual for you then. Wil' missed the "plastic flywheel" joke.
    Well, as I don't often go there, I'm not privvy to all the wise and intellectual 'goings on' you get in ESE and the mind tends to become a little dull! but I'm sure you can make allowances for me and probably talk a little more slowly so I can 'get it'.
    Maybe I should do a long and 'protracted' study on it!

  12. #1407
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    Quote Originally Posted by seattle smitty View Post
    (Insert long sigh here) I hate, I hate to ask this, because I know I've seen the answer somewhere, ... but could one of you skilled info-locators please once-and-for-all-time give a detailed step-by-step set of search directions here, to show us how to find something WITHIN the ESE superthread.
    Hi Will I know what you mean about the ESE thread, go to Seattle Smitty's original post, its the start of a short thread with many tips on how to search and find good stuff on the ESE thread or any thread for that matter.

  13. #1408
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Hi Will I know what you mean about the ESE thread, go to Seattle Smitty's original post, its the start of a short thread with many tips on how to search and find good stuff on the ESE thread or any thread for that matter.
    Thanks TZ,
    I have always been interested in the ESE thread, but with nothing to relate to (as in having an actual bike) it is hard to keep up with the play and so I don't have the incentive to get deeply involved, but I will keep looking in so as not to miss out in any new developments and of course I'll check out the thread you have mentioned.
    As you know, I am plodding on with the foundry stuff, and have made that my priority - I need to manage my time from now on and that will mainly be juggling between family and workshop/foundry, with not a lot of time for learning heaps of other new stuff. - I really need to rewind about 20 years to try and do all the things I would actually like to do!

  14. #1409
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    bondi fill

    I saw a post on the first pages, to make the molding cores using 'bondi fill'. Is it some sort of gypsum? is there a more general terms about bondi fill?

    Thank you!

  15. #1410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arifidyan View Post
    I saw a post on the first pages, to make the molding cores using 'bondi fill'. Is it some sort of gypsum? is there a more general terms about bondi fill?

    Thank you!
    Hello Arifdyan, Bondi is the filler used to repair dents in cars before they are repainted , it comes in a tin with a small tube of hardener. When it is set it is like a hard plastic that can be sanded , some people call it Bog, just google automotive body filler
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