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Thread: CB750 cafe racer build

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkmaia View Post

    If you have a chance to soda blast the engine, frame and wheels do it. Will save probably a month of work and will look sharp.
    That should take the finish back to a nice "as cast" finish and get that shitty lacquer which has yellowed and flaked and peeled off it.

    But, once you've done that, how do you keep it looking nice? because the surface will get tatty really quickly won't it?
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  2. #17
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    19th January 2014 - 20:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    That should take the finish back to a nice "as cast" finish and get that shitty lacquer which has yellowed and flaked and peeled off it.

    But, once you've done that, how do you keep it looking nice? because the surface will get tatty really quickly won't it?
    I haven't done the soda blasting because my gun does not have the pressure for that. But it has many benefits like an even cleanup, safer for the engine and you can hire someone to do and avoid having to build a blast room and buy loads of media.

    Instead I did:
    - sand blast for the engine, before anyone say anything, yes it was very very sealed and no I would not recommend if you don't know how to seal properly.
    - a drill with paint strip and steel wheels in the frame and many other parts
    - acid for the wheels and tank

    The problem with acid is that you will need a lot ($$$) and you will have to use a toxic mask and be careful with you eyes and skin because it burns.

    The engine was the one where I got the best result so far. Blasting really gets the surface texture even and ready for paint. The thing is: you should move fast because it rust in hours and will ruin your paint job.

    Don't use anything that causes friction - drill with paint strip or a sander - on aluminium parts like: wheels, engine, etc... it will damage the surface.

    Sand/soda blasting will leave a surface that is a bit flaked and rough. With a good epoxi primer coat it will look smooth. Then top coat. The engine does not take primer, but will look good with one coat of hi-temp paint.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Deuce View Post
    Don't argue with the pigs, man. They'll tap your phones and steal your weed and make your old lady do things she won't do for you.
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    Sexually transmitted diseases are one thing, sexually affected carnage is something else entirely. Ladies, if his cock's that small that he's prepared to put you at risk for a root, look elsewhere. Seriously.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkmaia View Post
    The problem with acid is that you will need a lot ($$$) and you will have to use a toxic mask and be careful with you eyes and skin because it burns.
    You could always use a decent paint stripper, and scratch the surface of the original paint. Usually sorts it out
    Clear coat the engine with high temp clear, sorted
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  5. #20
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    19th January 2014 - 20:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    You could always use a decent paint stripper, and scratch the surface of the original paint. Usually sorts it out
    Clear coat the engine with high temp clear, sorted
    Where do you get high temp clear coat? Do u know if it is possible to get high temp satin clear coat?

  6. #21
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    10th December 2005 - 15:33
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    Good progress! Iīm not sure how well clearcoat will hold up on oil-air cooled head/barrels the crankcases will be ok but around the exhaust ports and barrels it might yellow. If I was doing it again I would strip the engine and see if someone could do an aluminium ceramic coating. Vapour blasting makes them look like new but not for long if you ride all year round.
    I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkmaia View Post
    Where do you get high temp clear coat? Do u know if it is possible to get high temp satin clear coat?
    VHT do a high temp clear and high temp satin colours. I don't know of a high temp satin clear, sorry, but if you have a gun and mix your own paint you can chuck a flattening agent in
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
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  8. #23
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    19th January 2014 - 20:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    VHT do a high temp clear and high temp satin colours. I don't know of a high temp satin clear, sorry, but if you have a gun and mix your own paint you can chuck a flattening agent in
    I do have a gun and also mix my own paint. It is quite hard to find a good variety of high temp paint and most of it come as aerosol or you can go for those basic glossy POR15... both options I don't like very much.

    Eastwood does some really good ones and they have tons of variations for HT but the importer imports just an insignificant part of their line... shame.

  9. #24
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    I was following an old CB750 round the other day , was a bit too fast for me to pass

    My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yow Ling View Post
    I was following an old CB750 round the other day , was a bit too fast for me to pass
    That was F******* awesome dude!!! :^)
    Last edited by Gremlin; 1st April 2014 at 21:12. Reason: Quoted Embedded Media Removed

  11. #26
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    VHT do a high temp satin clear. I have a can in my garage. Repco got mine for me a couple years back. I was using it on a muffler - did not want gloss, flat black was like a blackboard. Satin over flat was sweet. No idea how it will last on a engine but it is designed for exhausts! You need to heat cycle that paint to get it fully cured - easy with a engine or exhaust.

  12. #27
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    29th August 2015 - 01:11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkmaia View Post
    Hey guys. New to the forum. Started this project 8 months ago.

    Any one else around who did something similar or want to do?
    What type of mufflers are those? I'm starting my cafe conversion and really like where you have gone with yours.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkmaia View Post
    I haven't done the soda blasting because my gun does not have the pressure for that. But it has many benefits like an even cleanup, safer for the engine and you can hire someone to do and avoid having to build a blast room and buy loads of media.

    Instead I did:
    - sand blast for the engine, before anyone say anything, yes it was very very sealed and no I would not recommend if you don't know how to seal properly.
    - a drill with paint strip and steel wheels in the frame and many other parts
    - acid for the wheels and tank

    The problem with acid is that you will need a lot ($$$) and you will have to use a toxic mask and be careful with you eyes and skin because it burns.

    The engine was the one where I got the best result so far. Blasting really gets the surface texture even and ready for paint. The thing is: you should move fast because it rust in hours and will ruin your paint job.

    Don't use anything that causes friction - drill with paint strip or a sander - on aluminium parts like: wheels, engine, etc... it will damage the surface.

    Sand/soda blasting will leave a surface that is a bit flaked and rough. With a good epoxi primer coat it will look smooth. Then top coat. The engine does not take primer, but will look good with one coat of hi-temp paint.
    Comstars can be converted to wire spoked wheels.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Comstars can be converted to wire spoked wheels.
    http://motosynthesis.blogspot.co.nz/p/products.html


    I know someone with the machinery to build this. CNC machined not water jet? the key would be to set up the CAD model.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    http://motosynthesis.blogspot.co.nz/p/products.html


    I know someone with the machinery to build this. CNC machined not water jet? the key would be to set up the CAD model.
    I first seen it doing the Covered disk ala VT250/500 or CBX550 (Enclosed disk )so it looked like a drum brake it was pretty neat.
    Of course it would be likely cheaper to just buy a couple of hubs and modify the fork axels etc



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

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