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Thread: Axle lengths?

  1. #1
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    Axle lengths?

    I have an ideayes that's right AN IDEA.

    I have a 88 fzr750 and have found a 17 inch rim setup that will fit without much remodelling.
    Is three spoke but straight not on an angle but when im on track I wont be lookin at it.

    I do have two options to fit it though.
    I will have to remove the swingarm and get a lug welded underneath it for the brake calliper brace(anything to worry about there?) but that's ok.

    the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

    1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

    2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.

    So who has an axel in there bike that's 20ml and about 350-360 ml long (not counting the bolt head but counting the threaded bit).

    After some makes and models if possible so I know what im looking for.

    Would this axel thing work or am I pissing in the wind?.
    I know I would have to get the chain adjusters milled out but that could be cheaper than getting reducing spacers made and would make it easier to change to wet rims.

    Any thoughts welcome
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

    1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

    2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.
    3/ find a different wheel bearing with same OD and 17mm ID
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    3/ find a different wheel bearing with same OD and 17mm ID
    Too easy, but not always possible.

    When I changed the wheel on the front of my FZR to one from a Thunderace, I had 'top hats' made to reduce the bearing ID. No one made what I needed.

    It's cheap and simple, and means the original wheel can go back in if needs must.

    For the torque arm lug. It needs to be strong as fuck, without weakening the swingarm. Alluminium is touch to weld and retain rigidity, pay for a real good engineer to do it.

  4. #4
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    Akzle length? 9 inches.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Too easy, but not always possible.

    When I changed the wheel on the front of my FZR to one from a Thunderace, I had 'top hats' made to reduce the bearing ID. No one made what I needed.

    It's cheap and simple, and means the original wheel can go back in if needs must.

    For the torque arm lug. It needs to be strong as fuck, without weakening the swingarm. Alluminium is touch to weld and retain rigidity, pay for a real good engineer to do it.
    It is possible to change the bearings but I would need to get a new spacer made for the rim and would still need to get reducers made for the brake calliper bracket and the sprocket carrier (oh I wish my bro still had his lath).
    Im not worried about the original rear wheel going back in cos its a race bike only.

    As for the torque arm, if it was going to be too risky welding a lug on I could get a calliper that goes on top of the swing arm and try to get a bracket made to fit it?.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    It is possible to change the bearings but I would need to get a new spacer made for the rim and would still need to get reducers made for the brake calliper bracket and the sprocket carrier (oh I wish my bro still had his lath).
    Im not worried about the original rear wheel going back in cos its a race bike only.

    As for the torque arm, if it was going to be too risky welding a lug on I could get a calliper that goes on top of the swing arm and try to get a bracket made to fit it?.
    OK, then modify the standard calliper to fit and just get top hats made to sleeve the bearing ID down.

    Be sure to use the crush tube from the original wheel, so the little flat surface on the top hats doens't have to take any actual sideways force.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    OK, then modify the standard calliper to fit and just get top hats made to sleeve the bearing ID down.

    Be sure to use the crush tube from the original wheel, so the little flat surface on the top hats doens't have to take any actual sideways force.
    The standard calliper probably wont fit the way the calliper is designed with the mount bolts being angled down not parallel to the swing arm if you know what I mean.

    I wont know for sure until I get a disc on the rim and see if the bottom bolt would clear the swing arm.

    I was going to get a calliper off an impulse or something and make a new mount.

    What is the crush tube?.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    I have an ideayes that's right AN IDEA.

    I have a 88 fzr750 and have found a 17 inch rim setup that will fit without much remodelling.
    Is three spoke but straight not on an angle but when im on track I wont be lookin at it.

    I do have two options to fit it though.
    I will have to remove the swingarm and get a lug welded underneath it for the brake calliper brace(anything to worry about there?) but that's ok.

    the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

    1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

    2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.

    So who has an axel in there bike that's 20ml and about 350-360 ml long (not counting the bolt head but counting the threaded bit).

    After some makes and models if possible so I know what im looking for.

    Would this axel thing work or am I pissing in the wind?.
    I know I would have to get the chain adjusters milled out but that could be cheaper than getting reducing spacers made and would make it easier to change to wet rims.

    Any thoughts welcome
    Only "Original" ideas are worth praise ...

    Welding only needs certification for on road use ... (as far as I know anyway)

    You can put a bush in to accept the bearings or find a bearing with the inner/outer specs to suit the 17 mm axle .... (Budget Bearings in Alex .. ??)

    Just make sure the final drive cog is the correct distance out (for your bike) from the center of the rear wheel ... for correct alignment. Slight misalignment could chew cogs and chain apart. OR ... throw it off ...

    Most engineering workshops could Build an axle to ANY required dimensions ... with any required threads ..

    AND ..... ALWAYS piss downwind ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    The standard calliper probably wont fit the way the calliper is designed with the mount bolts being angled down not parallel to the swing arm if you know what I mean.

    I wont know for sure until I get a disc on the rim and see if the bottom bolt would clear the swing arm.

    I was going to get a calliper off an impulse or something and make a new mount.

    What is the crush tube?.
    Nope, dunno what you mean about the calliper bolts. Or whether the the disk bolts are gonna miss the swingarm.

    Crush tube is the bit of pipe between the wheel bearings. It is what you are actually tightening the axle up on.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Only "Original" ideas are worth praise ...

    Welding only needs certification for on road use ... (as far as I know anyway)

    You can put a bush in to accept the bearings or find a bearing with the inner/outer specs to suit the 17 mm axle .... (Budget Bearings in Alex .. ??)

    Just make sure the final drive cog is the correct distance out (for your bike) from the centre of the rear wheel ... for correct alignment. Slight misalignment could chew cogs and chain apart. OR ... throw it off ...

    Yep got that part ok.

    Most engineering workshops could Build an axle to ANY required dimensions ... with any required threads ..
    What about heat treatment??.
    I think they have some sort of treatment from what I read in the net.


    AND ..... ALWAYS piss downwind ...
    I sit down
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    I sit down
    Bloody girl .... (as I always suspected)

    Heat treatment is easy for qualified engineers ...

    (and read your rep ... )
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Bloody girl .... (as I always suspected)

    Heat treatment is easy for qualified engineers ...

    (and read your rep ... )
    It's cooling the whole thing down slowly, that's important. Once it's been heated up to fucken hot in it's entirety of course.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    It's cooling the whole thing down slowly, that's important. Once it's been heated up to fucken hot in it's entirety of course.
    AND ... depending on the choice of metal you use ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    Akzle length? 9 inches.
    What degree of magnification are you using ..
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    Akzle length? 9 inches.
    Your a midget then. Bet you got a small cock.
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

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