Piston ring - fzr250 86 2kr

[The Reibz]

yeah thats a good deal, but still, you need a 10.2mm adaptor to get into the fzr threads.
They are a small plug, hayabusa uses exactly the same plugs too.

[Shak]

Ok will have look into it

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[ducatilover]

Ok I remeasured making sure timing marks are in line. Here are results.

Do I try and forcefully fit the largest I can? Or fit the largest guage in with little effort into the gap? Because I was able to fit larger sizes with some force. Attachment 294238Attachment 294239

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Yeah mate, should be a wee bit of drag on the feeler gauge but not tight/forced

I checked the tubes while cleaning out the carb. They seemed in good nick.

About the leak down test whats the best way without taking engine out? Youtube clip I saw was an engine out job

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Did you check very hard for ovality?
I need to re-cap I think already forgetting what the original issue was

that would be awesome, only thing is im not too sure how to exactly do the compression test my self, i had a look at some vids on utube though. are you able to guide me? make sure im doing it correctly? if your free that is, and i have a cricket game at 12 so will have to be done by 11am.. or another day is ok if you cant make it.

il keep reading on the compression test though

i might be able to get a 10.2mm adapter

Thanks again!

Righty-ho,
Comp test:
Remove all plugs and leads
Screw compression tester in to plug hole
Open the throttle wide open (you must do this)
Hit teh starter button and watch compression rise on the gauge 'till it stops, should only take a few seconds

Leak down test:
Remove plugs/leads
remove air box
remove rocker cover
remove radiator cap
Screw leak down tester in to spark plug hole
Put the cyl you are testing on TDC with the valves closed
Hold the crank with a powerbar and socket, or make a crank holding tool
Dump around 100 psi in to it

More than 20% of the air escaping means an issue is present, especially in a tight wee motor like that. Leakdown tester will have a gauge to tell you how much leakage is going on
Air coming out the intake/carbs = leaking intake valve
Air coming out the exhaust = leaking exhaust valve
Air coming out the head (now you have rocker cover off, or out the crank case breather) = shagged compression rings
Air out radiator filler/bubbles = head gasket

Small motors like yours are known for being very hard on exhaust valves, due to the heat they go through and the extremely small area contacting the seat, meaning they do not cool well at all, also the valves are so skinny (usually run a 3.5-4mm stem) they won't sodium fill them
And the fact that everyone lets them get out of tune and chucks a gay exhaust on them, meaning they run lean as shit

I haven't gone to the start of the thread again, but I recall you saying it is bogging down at 8000rpm-ish? Because I could have thought it'd be a carb issue..

[Shak]

awesome, very informative. thanks!

for leakdown test (do the test when engine is dry?) - also saw this with the soap trick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8

for compression test (do when all fluids are filled?)

and yeah was bogging around 8000rpm and making it very hard to hit 100kms

[ducatilover]

You can do leak down either wet or dry.
Soap test isn't really going to help on a 4 stroke

[Shak]

Will pickup some oil. Filter and coolant and go ahead with these test.

Would you say its better to call in dave I think it was (mobile bike mechanic) and get him to do the tests. That way I dont have to buy the kits and it gets done correctly?

I wonder if hirepool have these bits for hire. ( just that I highly doubt il use these items more than once lol) probably next bike will be a bit newer

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[ducatilover]

Get the mobile mechanic man in, he'll be used to doing such stuff

[Shak]

Ahh totally fd up.. finally had some time and put the valve cover back on properly and the last bolt just seperated while tightening... going to need a screw extractor kit and a new bolt..
Grr

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[SNF]

Ahh totally fd up.. finally had some time and put the valve cover back on properly and the last bolt just seperated while tightening... going to need a screw extractor kit and a new bolt..
Grr

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That's exactly what happened to me last time when I was going to check clearances, which I still need to do. The bolts go through the rocker and into the metal things covering the cams? - forgot technical name. I think we managed to twist it out in the end. I have a spare one if you need it.

[Shak]

Yes I do need one please. Would be awesome! Did u just use a plier to get it out?

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[DanielM8]

Yes I do need one please. Would be awesome! Did u just use a plier to get it out?

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Jeremym001 posted how he did it for FZR250 on your other topic:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130690520

[Shak]

Hi guys, finally after months of no time got around in the break to get the bike started and found fuel leaking from the carbs..
Opened it up and tried to fix it but snapped a bolt inside... arr

Looking to just buy another set if anyone has one for me.

Let me know please as im working onit myself but at a mechanics shop and dont wont to keep it there for long.

did the comp test again.. was fine
So engine ruled out
Thanks guys

[ducatilover]

What was the bolt?

[Shak]

This is Not an image of my carb

but its the golden bolt from this pic (looks same)

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/540/pax1.jpg

[ducatilover]

Was there anything under the others? looks like an emulsion tube to me and will be specific to your model