Deep breath, Dive! (GSX400X Impulse)

[Reubix]

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Cheers for those manuals, RDjase! I'll get on to sifting through them.

Update:
So I got 2x '81 CB900 coils and tested them out using the same method... No secondary resistance still. So my testing method is shite! I highly doubt that 4/4 coils are naffed. In any case I thought I'd chuck it in the bike anyway and see how it got on... Still no spark

What do I test next to trace back from the coils?

[F5 Dave]

Cheers for those manuals, RDjase! I'll get on to sifting through them.

Update:
So I got 2x '81 CB900 coils and tested them out using the same method... No secondary resistance still. So my testing method is shite! I highly doubt that 4/4 coils are naffed. In any case I thought I'd chuck it in the bike anyway and see how it got on... Still no spark

What do I test next to trace back from the coils?

You test HT lead to HT lead & you'll get say 18k give or take several k. or considerably less with caps removed.

The feeds will go direct to the ign box. The pulsar coils will feed to the ign box to tell it when to fire. I'd suspect it unlikely that both sides had gone at once.

[Akzle]

What do I test next to trace back from the coils?

First you need to make sure your magneto is collapsing the coils properlike...

[Akzle]

also. If you cant jewgle how to test ign coils, this job could be beyond you. Invest beer in a knowing friend.

[bogan]

Reckon I have it figured out, found this image



So for dual spark coils, instead of having two secondary windings in parallel and testible as per single spark coils, there is a single winding that generates a spark across both plugs. So the resistance test is from one HT lead to the other, not back to the primary winding or to ground. Which makes perfect sense for the reading we were getting on them coils.

[F5 Dave]

Hmm, that does sound familiar, but I can't put my finger on it. . .

[bogan]

Hmm, that does sound familiar, but I can't put my finger on it. . .

Well, now you mention it; it kinda sounds like something a smart guy would say, and people would skim read instead of learning the thing, and such people now feel suitably embarrassed

[F5 Dave]

meh I was trying to remember myself cause the memory is a bit soggy & I openly admitted I skimmed the thread a few posts back

[Reubix]

So to update!

With great thanks to Bogan he managed to track down a dodgy connection to the CDI box. On top of that we also learned how to test... Coils for a multi-cylinder engine...

Next step!
Get an inline fuel filter
Buy some HT leads for the CB900 coils
Replace stripped screws
Attempt to start the bike!

For later reference; specs of the carbs:

type - AISAN AS27VW
I.D. No. - 04A10
Bore - 27 mm
Idle r/min - 1300+/-100 r/min.
Fuel level - 9.0+/-0.5 mm
Float height - 20.5+/-1.0 mm
Main jet - #94
Main air jet - 1.2 mm
Jet needle - 5B10-3rd
Needle jet - 2.60 mm
Throtlle valve - 11.0
Pilot jet - #34
By-pass - 0.8,0.8,0.8 mm
Pilot outlet - 10.8 mm
Valve seat - 2.5 mm
Starter jet - GS1 #60, GS2 #54
Pilot screw - PRE-SET (2 turn out)
Pilot air jet - 1.35 mm
Throttle cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm
Choke cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm

[RDjase]

So to update!

With great thanks to Bogan he managed to track down a dodgy connection to the CDI box. On top of that we also learned how to test... Coils for a multi-cylinder engine...

Next step!
Get an inline fuel filter
Buy some HT leads for the CB900 coils
Replace stripped screws
Attempt to start the bike!

For later reference; specs of the carbs:

type - AISAN AS27VW
I.D. No. - 04A10
Bore - 27 mm
Idle r/min - 1300+/-100 r/min.
Fuel level - 9.0+/-0.5 mm
Float height - 20.5+/-1.0 mm
Main jet - #94
Main air jet - 1.2 mm
Jet needle - 5B10-3rd
Needle jet - 2.60 mm
Throtlle valve - 11.0
Pilot jet - #34
By-pass - 0.8,0.8,0.8 mm
Pilot outlet - 10.8 mm
Valve seat - 2.5 mm
Starter jet - GS1 #60, GS2 #54
Pilot screw - PRE-SET (2 turn out)
Pilot air jet - 1.35 mm
Throttle cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm
Choke cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm

Great find !

Should be making all the right noises soon

The carb specs are handy too, Where did you find that info? I have found two style slides in the odds and sods of carb stuff for my Impulses, have enough for a complete matching set now, shame there still a horrible carb

[F5 Dave]

Wow that was lucky, good work B. Inline fuel filter, you can get right angle ones which can be ideal to avoid kinks which block off flow and hard to trace. But filter won't stop the dreaded Suzuki silt problems from rusting tanks. Seems to pass through filters and collect in float bowls somehow. Read up threads on tank sealing if that's the issue. I've had to do every bleeding one of my Suzis bar the RF now I think of it.

[Reubix]

Wow that was lucky, good work B. Inline fuel filter, you can get right angle ones which can be ideal to avoid kinks which block off flow and hard to trace. But filter won't stop the dreaded Suzuki silt problems from rusting tanks. Seems to pass through filters and collect in float bowls somehow. Read up threads on tank sealing if that's the issue. I've had to do every bleeding one of my Suzis bar the RF now I think of it.

I'm thinking the tank has already had some kind of coating put down inside of it, ask Bogan he'd know as I showed it to him. Looked like red paint sprayed on the inside of the tank.... Definitely NOT rust and there's no rust in there!

Bought a new relay switch for the bike. Now the blinkers are..... Less on the blink

Brake bleed this weekend, got the kit and got the fluids!

Bought 2x new spark plugs to replace corroded ones

Ordered a fuel filter, just need to get more piping to fit to the fuel tank.

Went into the Suzuki shop and asked them to track down 2x HT leads for the bike. The model of coil they suggested was the exact same shape and design as the CB900 ones I picked up off an old '81 Honda (For $40 each) compared to the $150 they wanted to charge for new coils (with NO HT leads)

So we're on track!

May need to re-enlist Bogan at some point to, very clued up fulla with genuine advice and good nature. +100 Brownie points to him

[Reubix]

So the brakes aren't looking so good... After being unused for 15+ years it looks like a lot of the seals are shot and the cylinders have pitting on them. Where should I go from here? Is it possible to get the calipers off another bike and apply them without too many hassles? Do manufacturers standardize rotor size and clearance to the forks, etc. ?

I'm seeking the wise council of the greater forum on this one...

I tried to clean the cylinders but some of them refuse to come out, then others refuse to go back in. What a nightmare!

2x 4 pot calipers by the way, pretty complicated for a 150kg bike!

[bogan]

So the brakes aren't looking so good... After being unused for 15+ years it looks like a lot of the seals are shot and the cylinders have pitting on them. Where should I go from here? Is it possible to get the calipers off another bike and apply them without too many hassles? Do manufacturers standardize rotor size and clearance to the forks, etc. ?

I'm seeking the wise council of the greater forum on this one...

I tried to clean the cylinders but some of them refuse to come out, then others refuse to go back in. What a nightmare!

2x 4 pot calipers by the way, pretty complicated for a 150kg bike!

You mean the cylindrical piston has pitting, or the caliper itself?

Not standardised much at all, there might be some with the same calipers, but will likely be hard to figure out which, if any.

I've dealt with a few old calipers before (getting pistons out often requires a bit of air pressure and a well placed bit of metal), sometimes you can get away with buffing the pistons and replacing seals, other times you need to replace the pistons as well, never seen one needing a caliper replacement.

Chuck up some pics of the damage and we can probably give you a better estimate of what is required.

[F5 Dave]

Changing to non std calipers gets the WOF man hot & bothered. Air will often shift them, but be super careful to wrap a rag around & something to limit play as they come out with super force. You have to strip out the seals & clean the white powdery stuff from behind them. Usually the seals are ok (seek advice) but the dust seals get buggered.