New biker from Auckland (biketimus_prime)

[GSeX]

Was going to suggest a loose chain, but you're not talking about how to do a burnout are you?? If you need the chain adjusted or aren't sure how, can bring it around sometime

[bogan]

The jerking could be not getting up enough revs before changing up a gear.

Oh yeh, that reminds me; biketimus, there are quite a few people on here who tend to give advice to hear themselves type, rather than to give helpful advice... so take it all with a healthy grain of salt.

[biketimus_prime]

Oh yeh, that reminds me; biketimus, there are quite a few people on here who tend to give advice to hear themselves type, rather than to give helpful advice... so take it all with a healthy grain of salt.

Haha thanks that is the case on all forums I reckon but cassina did give some good advice about the torque wrench

Buy yourself a torque wrench for wheel nuts as I found tightening them by hand may just not be enough. I found out a wheel I had tightened by hand had worked loose over 2 days. I do normally tighten with a torque wrench anyway but did not do it as I was in a hurry to get a WOF before they closed. They are handy to have for any aluminium threads too as they can be easily stripped by hand tightening.

Yeah I've got one in my tool set. Do you know what torque they tighten that nut to? Can't find any info on the owners manual.

Was going to suggest a loose chain, but you're not talking about how to do a burnout are you?? If you need the chain adjusted or aren't sure how, can bring it around sometime

Nah not how to do a burnout! Tyres save lives! I did think it was the chain being loose, but the thing is I have it tightened to within spec and it still did it even on the first drive. It feels more like when I get on the gas that the clutch once again engages to the engine with a hard hit (but I'm not using the clutch, it was already engaged). Like your diff in a car clunking when you let on and off the gas, it's that feeling.. Also thanks for the offer for adjusting the chain though

[GSeX]

My bike done that when the clutch needed adjusting cause it wasn't fully engaging. It's the adjuster at the lever itself - could be that?

[biketimus_prime]

Owners manuals don't usually give torque settings. You have to buy a workshop manual for them and they would be different for each bike/size of bolt.

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.

My bike done that when the clutch needed adjusting cause it wasn't fully engaging. It's the adjuster at the lever itself - could be that?

I'll have a look, the clutch engages very close to the end of the lever's stroke

[george formby]

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.



I'll have a look, the clutch engages very close to the end of the lever's stroke

Yeah, jerkiness could be clutch or chain. I'm not gonna go back through the thread but releasing front brake & winding on the throttle when you pull away takes practice, correctly adjusted levers, throttle & preferably large hands. Use the back brake instead.
You may not be fully releasing the clutch lever if it bites so close to the end of it's travel. Try & get into the habit of having four fingers on your levers to use them or four fingers on the grips. I used to ride with a couple of fingers covering brake & clutch until I got some training which pointed out the error of my ways. I still do this when I may need to react very quickly, high pedestrian areas, chaotic traffic situations etc. Otherwise it's the full fist round the grips.
If you can get the part number for the work shop manual, google it. Prolly be able to download it for free.

[Murray]

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.

I have to get a workshop manual myself for a bike and agree with you they are hard to get.

Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...manuals-online

[george formby]

Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...manuals-online

Thank you. I struggle wid search function but that is what I had in mind. Must bookmark.

After a quick squiz I never realised how many different GSX 250's there are.

[biketimus_prime]

[QUOTE=cassina;1130692669]

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.

I have to get a workshop manual myself for a bike and agree with you they are hard to get. Maybe the shops don't want to sell them anymore as it does their service depts out of business with not so many being bikes being sold today. Ordering one online from overseas would be the way to go I guess.

Yeah I did some searching and best thing I could find was that most nuts for the rear axle get tightened to 72.5 FT-Lbs, so I set my wrench to that and got tightening, I had the nut way too loose when I did it by hand...
Checked chain tension and it was still the same as before though. Round 30mm of movement.

Yeah, jerkiness could be clutch or chain. I'm not gonna go back through the thread but releasing front brake & winding on the throttle when you pull away takes practice, correctly adjusted levers, throttle & preferably large hands. Use the back brake instead.
You may not be fully releasing the clutch lever if it bites so close to the end of it's travel. Try & get into the habit of having four fingers on your levers to use them or four fingers on the grips. I used to ride with a couple of fingers covering brake & clutch until I got some training which pointed out the error of my ways. I still do this when I may need to react very quickly, high pedestrian areas, chaotic traffic situations etc. Otherwise it's the full fist round the grips.
If you can get the part number for the work shop manual, google it. Prolly be able to download it for free.

Thanks for the advice
I use the back brake to hold me before I take off, be it on a hill or flat, just so I have my whole hand free to operate the throttle. Oh also my left hand grip rolls around and isn't fixed in place, what is the best thing to glue it down with or what are you meant to do?

Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...manuals-online

Thank you, couldn't find what I was after though but it's somewhere to start.



Oh also I signed up to the bronze course of this: http://www.prorider.co.nz/motorcycle....php?course=31
For the 30th of March, anyone else going?

[GSeX]

There will be bolts or screws holding the two halves of the lever mount to the bar - tighten those up

[HollowsX]

Going all the way back to you're original question about lane splitting. I've been told by multiple sources, its a good idea to travel <20kph faster than the rest of traffic when filtering or lane splitting and to not undertake, ever. Preferably.

[HollowsX]

Also as a new rider, it may be worth checking out the ACC and AT sponsored courses. Pro Rider does them in Auckland. At the price they are, you can't go wrong even if it was just to ask everything

Sent from my GT-S7500 using Tapatalk 2

[biketimus_prime]

There will be bolts or screws holding the two halves of the lever mount to the bar - tighten those up

Not my lever that's loose. The rubber grip on my handlebar, it squirms around.

Going all the way back to you're original question about lane splitting. I've been told by multiple sources, its a good idea to travel <20kph faster than the rest of traffic when filtering or lane splitting and to not undertake, ever. Preferably.

Thanks for the tip. I'll first get better at riding before attempting anything in traffic

Also as a new rider, it may be worth checking out the ACC and AT sponsored courses. Pro Rider does them in Auckland. At the price they are, you can't go wrong even if it was just to ask everything

Sent from my GT-S7500 using Tapatalk 2

Yep I signed up to the Pro Rider course coming up on the 30th