Cracked swing-arm?

[Mike.Gayner]

Cheers for the help.

I can get it X-rayed through work for about $75, which may be cheap peace of mind anyway. I'm still on the lookout for a used swingarm if I can get one at a decent price.

[The Reibz]

Thats a piss easy weld.
Swingers are made of good Ali. Not like the horrible cast iron in casings which never weld easily.
Seriously easy weld.


I Graduated from Pap NZWS in Jan last year.

[Mike.Gayner]

Awesome mate, I started with NZWS March last year, but there haven't been a lot of staff changes since then so all the guys are still there.

[manxkiwi]

Looks suspiciously like the axle has been tightened without the adjuster being inside the SA. That's exactly where it would crack if this was done.

Drop the wheel out and see if the adjuster is now very tight inside the SA. This would show for sure if the SA has been 'squeezed' in. Also throw a straight edge vertically on the SA and compare both sides for deformation.

There's probably nothing you could do, even if you found this to be the case I guess?

[Crasherfromwayback]

Looks suspiciously like the axle has been tightened without the adjuster being inside the SA. That's exactly where it would crack if this was done.

I'm not thinking that'd do it. The axle spacers etc should take the load...not the axle adjusting block. If that took any load...the sa would still distort when tightening up the axle.

[manxkiwi]

I'm not thinking that'd do it. The axle spacers etc should take the load...not the axle adjusting block. If that took any load...the sa would still distort when tightening up the axle.

But the swingarm is hollow and the axle adjuster assembly is fully load bearing. If the adjuster block isn't in place the outer wall of the SA will cave in under tightening pressure, surely? It's only a thin piece of extrusion after all. If a wheel spacer were missing, the whole arm would flex I'd imagine. That crack is exactly where you'd expect to see it if the adjuster wasn't in place.

[Crasherfromwayback]

But the swingarm is hollow and the axle adjuster assembly is fully load bearing. If the adjuster block isn't in place the outer wall of the SA will cave in under tightening pressure, surely? It's only a thin piece of extrusion after all. If a wheel spacer were missing, the whole arm would flex I'd imagine. That crack is exactly where you'd expect to see it if the adjuster wasn't in place.

Nah. If the axle adj plate wasn't there I'd still not expect you to be able to crush the sa unless there was a spacer etc missing or in the wrong place. The sa is still thin enough there that it'd crush even with the plate in if there was another *issue* think you'll find.

[Mike.Gayner]

I'm going to pull the end cap off tonight and see if there's any signs of anything like that. In any case, as you say there's not much I could do about it.

[Mike.Gayner]

This is how the SA and axle adjuster fit together: http://imgur.com/1Fl7sFC.jpg

This is the chain adjuster itself, which presumably takes all the load - I must say it's a flimsy looking piece itself, though hard to tell without seeing it in person: http://imgur.com/AzM2876.jpg

[manxkiwi]

Nah. If the axle adj plate wasn't there I'd still not expect you to be able to crush the sa unless there was a spacer etc missing or in the wrong place. The sa is still thin enough there that it'd crush even with the plate in if there was another *issue* think you'll find.

Yeah, I didn't mean the plate supports the SA. The threaded adjuster bolt is welded to a spacer with a hole in it that the axle goes through and fully supports the SA structure. Lots of Suzukis have this set up.

Anyway it's all a bit academic as the OP still has to remedy the problem.

[manxkiwi]

Just looked at that picture. The threaded bolt isn't welded to the spacer in this case, rather, it screws into the adjuster block. I'm imagining that piece number 16 wasn't in place, thus no support for the extrusion. I'm only guessing of course, based on one photo. But that's what it looks like to me.

[Grumph]

Welding it wont be a problem, and totally acceptable but just be aware that it shouldn't be able to pass a WOF afterwards (assuming the tester follows the law), it's a major load bearing suspension component, and as such is it allowed to be modified, someone could argue semantics about this, but it's not (as far as the law is concerned) legal.

It would have to be crack tested to pass MOT's...... Hopefully a welder can arrange this, but it has to come off the bike to happen

Most guys would likely pass it... Im just playing devils advocate... It will make it harder to sell later too.

That said, in my opinion, it's totally safe.

You've been in Germany too long dealing with their TUV is it ? Never be noticed here....

If it gets welded, yes, off the bike - and a dummy axle and spacers inserted to maintain the arms parallel.

Mr ocean, pretty well all Suzuki alloy fabrications are in an air hardening alloy which can be welded no probs at all. can't remember the numbers but the alloy used is very similar to the Italian Ergal ones - and unobtainable here...

[Mike.Gayner]

Images with the end cap off - notice the direction of the crack. At least it's in one piece still. I feel confident enough to at least ride it to the shop/engineers/etc.

http://imgur.com/a/HxZSV

edit: Best hi-res close-up: http://i.imgur.com/xjCNoF3.jpg

[Mike.Gayner]

can't remember the numbers but the alloy used is very similar to the Italian Ergal ones - and unobtainable here...

Can it be substituted with a suitable similar filler?

[Grumph]

Can it be substituted with a suitable similar filler?

you forced me to go and look it up....

the arm is most probably 7003,7004 or 7005. the japs have been using this from the beginning of their alloy frames and bits. it welds well with commonly available fillers. AFAIK 5356 is probably the best choice for fillers. Pro welders feel free to chime in....