Rear caliper bolt broken & fallen out?

[Mike.Gayner]

I was braking kind of hard for a corner (front and back obviously) and I heard and felt a very loud clunk. The bolt that links the rear caliper to the torque link is missing, either fallen out or broken. This caused the caliper to swing around and smack the shock mount on the swing arm. What am I in for here? Obviously a new bolt and a new brake line (this one got badly twisted around/stretched). What do you think of the damage to the swing arm mount - anything to worry about?

Unlike my last issue, I'm fairly sure I can put the blame squarely on the shop this time. The last work that was done was a chain about 500km ago, and obviously someone didn't use the correct torque or something similar. It's incredibly frustrating being let down by someone you trust with something so crucial.

Pictures - the first one was taken after I managed to free the caliper from the swingarm. If you look at the second picture you can see why I can't get it any further around without removing the wheel - moving the caliper further back causes the line to get caught between the swingarm and the brake mount.

http://imgur.com/a/B9tAD

[FJRider]

Unlike my last issue, I'm fairly sure I can put the blame squarely on the shop this time. The last work that was done was a chain about 500km ago, and obviously someone didn't use the correct torque or something similar. It's incredibly frustrating being let down by someone you trust with something so crucial.

Is the brake caliper actually needed to be removed to replace the chain ... ???

[nzspokes]

Is the brake caliper actually needed to be removed to replace the chain ... ???

I wouldnt have thought that would need to come off for a chain.

May I suggest spending 10 mins before a weekend ride to check bolts on the bike? Things come lose.

[bogan]

Is the brake caliper actually needed to be removed to replace the chain ... ???

Depends if they wanted to do some honest price gouging I guess...

I mean fuck, I can't remember the last time I removed an axle to replace a chain. And I'm damn sure you can remove an axle/wheel while leaving the caliper link done up.

In saying that, it should be a minimum of a locking nut on that, so somebody has fucked up.

[FJRider]

I wouldnt have thought that would need to come off for a chain.

May I suggest spending 10 mins before a weekend ride to check bolts on the bike? Things come lose.

A pretty rough accusation to make against the shop after a chain replacement.

[pete376403]

Must be something about rear brake torque arm bolts - on the GS1100 the torque arm bolts are one of the few (if not the only) places on the bike where the bolts uses castle nuts and split pins. Everywhere else relies on the bolt /nut being torqued correctly.

[AllanB]

Actually all my older bikes have split pins.

The Hornet does not have a arm - a bit is on the swingarm that the calliper holder slots into. Good plan.

[F5 Dave]

. .
I mean fuck, I can't remember the last time I removed an axle to replace a chain. . . .

Those sprockets never wear huh?

Last time I had a tyre changed on the bike the next day I was riding & heard a clunk & something bounce off. If was the front torque arm bolt on my CBX550 which has a strange arrangement due to the inboard discs.

I've only given wheels since then. About 1989 I think it was.

[Hoon]

Nah swingarm mount should be fine. Just give it the bounce up in down test and make sure it still moves freely. Brake line might be OK too as long as it had enough length and isn't leaking fluid. I'd just give the brake pedal a good stomping afterwards just to check - but I never use the rear brake so not a major issue for me.

The shop wouldn't have to take the caliper off unless the wheel was coming off e.g. sprockets or wheel bearings/balance etc. Unlikely to get any admission of fault or compensation - you can try (and good to because at least the boss can ream out the mechanic or keep an eye on him next time unless they are one in the same) and if you go about it the right way they might even meet you halfway, untangle everything, throw a bolt in, and have a quick squizz for free. If not all you can really do it is go elsewhere next time.

[Mike.Gayner]

I should have mentioned it was chain and sprocket, but having given it some thought, if it were me I'd still leave the caliper bolted to the torque arm on removal of the wheel. In any case it doesn't matter, shit happens and all. I have a bad habit of getting pissed off when things go wrong and trying to find out whose fault it was. Given a couple of days I always cool off and take it in my stride. I replaced the bolt (but just with a cheapo temporary one until I get a decent bolt) and decided to keep the hose. It got pretty stretched, so I thought about upgrading to a braided one (only about $70), but I'll just wait to see if the original one leaks or bulges before doing anything.

I had to take the hose off to get the caliper back around, so new fluid and bleed and it actually feels better than ever right now. It's also pretty obvious that a little dent in the swingarm isn't going to be an issue - as I said, I get a bit over the top when these things happen.

[bogan]

Those sprockets never wear huh?

a) that would fall under replacing the sprockets then wouldn't it
b) SSSA master race means even then I don't have to

[AllanB]

I'd be inclined to pop in and have a reasonable chat to them. You'd be more annoyed if the arm had somehow got embedded in the wheel or the caliper locked the rear and you crashed. Indeed if you had crashed and were seriously injured there would have been a suitable inquiry and once you could speak again (28 days in a induced coma) the shop would have had questions to answer...

I've seen workshops where once a wheel or brake parts are removed, serviced and reassembled a second individual checks over the bolts and nuts to ensure they have been tightened. Covers the owner and shop.

[imdying]

There's no reason to take that off, and mechanics are smart/lazy depending on your perspective. It's probably just bad luck/coincidence.

I think they're shouldered bolts on those. Replace both ends of the torque arm with OEM bolts and nuts. It'll cost you about USD$20 + freight.

I don't know the reason why those bolts often have split pins. If I had to guess, the manual would show quite a low torque value which allows them to pivot, therefore the clamping load isn't keeping it tight, so the pin stops it backing off?

[pete376403]

There's no reason to take that off, and mechanics are smart/lazy depending on your perspective. It's probably just bad luck/coincidence.

I think they're shouldered bolts on those. Replace both ends of the torque arm with OEM bolts and nuts. It'll cost you about USD$20 + freight.

I don't know the reason why those bolts often have split pins. If I had to guess, the manual would show quite a low torque value which allows them to pivot, therefore the clamping load isn't keeping it tight, so the pin stops it backing off?

Good thought so I checked the manual for my 1100 - the rear torque link bolt has the same setting (14.5 - 21.5 lb ft) as most of the other 10mm diameter bolts. Also the nut tightens against the bolt shoulder, the link rotates on the shouldered part of the bolt, so...

[Drew]

I doubt a shop or mechanic would take the torque arm bolt out for any reason, other than removing the caliper.