New shock - first impressions

**sil3nt** · 24th March 2014, 19:02

End of last year I started talking to Mr RT about shock options for my VFR 400 NC30. I had asked him a few years ago but never had the money. Back then Ohlins was the only decent option he had. This time though he had a Nitron to temp me. He reckons they are a quality brand comparable with Ohlins. I should have asked how many MotoGP championships they have won

But seriously I always do my own research and Nitron are a popular brand in the UK so I thought why the hell not! I just had to hope I didn't get a dud like this poor bugger:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh-yDSjkvXk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QasHG2ZiN8

There were 4 different options too choose so I went for the most expensive '3-Way Race Shock'

I couldn't get to New Plymouth to get RT to do all the work but no worries RT said 'You could fit it yourself, easy as'

Obviously doesn't know me at all. I have managed to fuck up every oil change I have done

So I went to the shop last week and asked them how much. They said they have never done one before but quoted 2 hours. Fine by me it would have taken me 2 weeks and I would have broken something important. Dropped it off this morning a long with my Haynes manual with a cheeky bookmark to the shock removal page. They obviously used it because the bookmark wasn't there when I got the bike back! They also had to tighten up the steering head bearing. Glad they found that because the bike was handling like shit yesterday. First half of the ride was fine but coming home the bike felt incredibly loose like it had a puncture.

So after work I pick the bike up and take a slightly longer route home. This route took in some bumpy country roads. First impression? Not much different to the old shock. The old shock had its preload maxed out so it was very harsh. Zero static sag and about 20mm rider sag (I never measured the rider sag properly). It would kick me out of the seat on large bumps. The Nitron was doing the same although not quite as bad. It also seemed to upset the front end a fair bit. I will have to do some more testing on roads I am familiar with.

As the shock was custom built in the UK by some bloke that only knows my weight and not what I am using it for I believe it is currently set up for the track. I will have to go through and set up the static and rider sag at some point. So first impression is not so good.

But there were positives. Eye to eye the original shock is 310mm. The Nitron is adjustable and I left it as it came in the box which was 330mm. So a 20mm increase in shock length plus whatever the linkage multiplies that by and I have a higher rear end. This is meant to help the bike turn in. Did it? Yep! The raised rear end (combined with a tightened steering head!) had the bike easily turning into corners and quite happily holding a line rather than pushing wide. I test rode a 2013 ZX6R and that thing blew me away how it would fall into corners so easily. I reckon my old bike is almost as good now!

So some negatives and positives and with my riding most likely going to be 50:50 track and road I need to find a setup that works for both. I also need to send the forks off to get the magic touch from RT. Hopefully I can get that done before the next track day in April.

**nzspokes** · 24th March 2014, 19:11

Its set 20mm longer???? Did Robert set it up like that? Ive not lifted many bikes but the most ive heard of is 6mm.

Learn something everyday.

**nzspokes** · 24th March 2014, 19:15

I would be checking that with RT before you ride it again.

**sil3nt** · 24th March 2014, 19:30

Originally Posted by nzspokes

I would be checking that with RT before you ride it again.

For years I have been reading about ride height changes to this bike. Just had a quick look and 35mm is what most people seem to aim for. They do this by changing linkages with the NC35. From what I understand the NC30 linkage is 3.5:1 so to raise the rear end 35mm you would need a shock that is 10mm longer. So if my measurements were correct the 20mm extra on the shock translates into a 70mm increase in ride height. That does sound like a lot! I can't say I noticed anything too drastic when sitting on the bike. I can still touch the ground easily. Changing the ride height would mean removing the shock which is not something I am prepared to do right now!

**nzspokes** · 24th March 2014, 19:34

Originally Posted by sil3nt

For years I have been reading about ride height changes to this bike. Just had a quick look and 35mm is what most people seem to aim for. They do this by changing linkages with the NC35. From what I understand the NC30 linkage is 3.5:1 so to raise the rear end 35mm you would need a shock that is 10mm longer. So if my measurements were correct the 20mm extra on the shock translates into a 70mm increase in ride height. That does sound like a lot! I can't say I noticed anything too drastic when sitting on the bike. I can still touch the ground easily. Changing the ride height would mean removing the shock which is not something I am prepared to do right now!

Thats the biggest lift I have heard of, seriously check with RT first as he is the expert. I see a tank slapper in your future.

I could be wrong but It would pay to check.

**sil3nt** · 24th March 2014, 19:37

Originally Posted by nzspokes

Thats the biggest lift I have heard of, seriously check with RT first as he is the expert. I see a tank slapper in your future.

I could be wrong but It would pay to check.

I am fairly confident Nitron wouldn't be selling something that is going to kill me. Although maybe it could explain the unstable front end over the bumps. Testing a death trap is all part of the fun

I have no idea if any of my calculations are right. Although I am sure I measured the shocks correctly.

**nzspokes** · 24th March 2014, 19:52

Originally Posted by sil3nt

I am fairly confident Nitron wouldn't be selling something that is going to kill me. Although maybe it could explain the unstable front end over the bumps. Testing a death trap is all part of the fun

I have no idea if any of my calculations are right. Although I am sure I measured the shocks correctly.

Well I would be happier wrong than you crashed. Was it adjustable for length?

**Mort** · 24th March 2014, 20:00

+1 for Nitron

I have one on my R1 and it is superb. Great engineering and well below Ohlins cost. Very happy with it.

**AllanB** · 24th March 2014, 20:02

The bells and whistle one is length adjustable.

**sil3nt** · 24th March 2014, 20:03

Originally Posted by AllanB

The bells and whistle one is length adjustable.

Yep. +6mm -1mm. Although no base setting was written anywhere and I didn't touch it so no idea what it is at now.

**Icemaestro** · 24th March 2014, 20:19

Pretty much everyone with an nc30 over in the UK raises the rear by at least 20mm....Rick O sells linkages purely for that it is so popular. It massively improves the steering, I have the BMW shock in mine that raises a similar amount, last one had the rs250 shock that did the same - swapped it out for a stocker last time to see what it was like - never again!

Not sure the Nitron guys would have been able to set up preload, damping for you though yeah? They just would have it at factory spec, but the spring would be for your weight? so you might find things improve when to fiddle around. Also as you said it will be set up for the track so could probably do with a little softening if the roads where I am are any indication.

My only other thought is as to have to set up your front with the rear now? as you will need to with a much improved shock...do you have stock latter cartridge forks? RO internals or anything?

**Robert Taylor** · 25th March 2014, 17:31

I have nothing to hide in respect of our work and backup, when asked for. In that light it might have been more ideal to dial in the shock prior to posting on a site ( like all forums ) that can be a haven for keyboard instant experts. And those predisposed to poking borax.

Did you measure the rider sag and if so where is it set? That is a major pre-requisite for any shock, irrespective of where it came from and supposedly that it is preset. Riders in themselves are so variable, therefore the setup required is variable. With the shock comes a setup card but also a manual explaining how to adjust it, if that is not completely understood I am but a phone call or e-mail away and have a habit of answering reasonably quickly.

In respect of Ohlins the shock for that is many many years out of production and I would have had to build it, albeit at a much higher price and it would have been arguable whether I would have made any profit on it given that building such a shock from scratch is rather more than a 5 minute job! Businesses including those that sell and service suspension have to make a fair and reasonable profit.

You have this shock in a 3 way. If you start backing out the high speed compression adjuster you will be surprised how much affect that has on ride quality. If the rebound is too slow that will cause harshness. See my videos on Youtube re setting clickers.

The increase in ride height is typically required for this model but if the rider sag is a smaller number than it should be then the increase that you have in base ride height will be a little distorted.

That same improvement in geometry is now highlighting the inherent weakness in the front end. Once that is reworked with at minimum suitable springing and oil viscosity / level it will work a whole load better, the bike will be balanced and it will make the rear shock work a lot better again because it wont be constantly ''see sawing'' that front end and therefore unloading the rear a little.

You may wish to try lowering the ride height a little ( after confirming what your rider sag is first ) If there isnt enough flexibility in that respect we will shorten the shock for you at no further charge excepting freight recovery costs

**Robert Taylor** · 25th March 2014, 17:48

Ive just watched those 2 ( on the face of it mischievous ) Youtube videos. Was there any elaboration? How much preload was there on the main spring and what was the base rebound click setting?
Aside from any stupid issues going on did the guy seek a resolution and or was it in his makeup to be a total cock? Theres always two sides to a story but there are always private individuals who go out of their way to be as nasty as possible and to feel important by posting such stuff on the net.
If there was a manufacturing problem the manufacturer ( like all good manufacturers ) and / or their representatives would put it right. Maybe they offered to put it right but refused ( as a randomn example ) to do it on a Sunday night? Like I said two sides to every story.
The good Swedish brand has the occassional issue and that is why we have a no argument warranty policy. Same for any product we sell.

Indeed that video is a good indicator of overslow rebound and this is something we come across many many times where the owner has screwed in the rebound clicker way too far

**sil3nt** · 25th March 2014, 17:59

Originally Posted by Robert Taylor

Ive just watched those 2 ( on the face of it mischievous ) Youtube videos. Was there any elaboration? How much preload was there on the main spring and what was the base rebound click setting?
Aside from any stupid issues going on did the guy seek a resolution and or was it in his makeup to be a total cock? Theres always two sides to a story but there are always private individuals who go out of their way to be as nasty as possible and to feel important by posting such stuff on the net.
If there was a manufacturing problem the manufacturer ( like all good manufacturers ) and / or their representatives would put it right. Maybe they offered to put it right but refused ( as a randomn example ) to do it on a Sunday night? Like I said two sides to every story.
The good Swedish brand has the occassional issue and that is why we have a no argument warranty policy. Same for any product we sell.

Indeed that video is a good indicator of overslow rebound and this is something we come across many many times where the owner has screwed in the rebound clicker way too far

Hi Robert. Full story about those videos here: http://www.400greybike.com/forum/vie...p?f=22&t=39722

Short story: Yes it was resolved.

Will be setting the sag tonight although probably won't get to ride the bike.

If I had any serious concerns about the product I would be emailing you not posting here!

**Robert Taylor** · 25th March 2014, 18:08

Originally Posted by sil3nt

Hi Robert. Full story about those videos here: http://www.400greybike.com/forum/vie...p?f=22&t=39722

Short story: Yes it was resolved.

Will be setting the sag tonight although probably won't get to ride the bike.

If I had any serious concerns about the product I would be emailing you not posting here!

Yes that guy is no longer the distributor in Australia, he was incapable of locally sorting out the issue.