From memory it has a cut out switch on the side stand and clutch, it should not start with the stand down, in gear or out of gear.
Mine would not start when hot with choke or if you touched the throttle
From memory it has a cut out switch on the side stand and clutch, it should not start with the stand down, in gear or out of gear.
Mine would not start when hot with choke or if you touched the throttle
And what shit would i be making up???
i am simply answering questions, I'm not intentionally repeating myself, but some people seem to not understand what i have said so i have to say it again.
I repeat ALL electrics on the bike have been checked. This includes the switches.
This is not a huge problem for me as the bike does start up easily enough, it took me a bit to figure out the bikes starting procedures, but now its okay.
I'm just interested because i can't figure out why it does this, and when i have shown people with mechanical knowledge in motorcycles they seem confused as to why it does this also.
Who did the last service?
If you paid for it - take it back to them and ask them to sort it. Service time is the time you look at plugs and air filters (among many other things). Changing the oil simply changes the bandage on a bad wound in many cases. Doesn't fix the problem.
As for someone looking at the electrics - what specifically did they check? Did they follow the loom around or just turn on light - point at it and say "See electric!"
Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.
we get it, but if we ask you to test something, 'if i remember right' is not how to start the sentence, try 'okay, so i did what you said and....'
engines give very little fuck about seasons or weather.
If you told the woman that 'checked it' about this, and it isnt fixed, get your wee size 8 steel caps on and cunt punt the bitch.
I think it is worth disabling the clutch switch, sidestand switch and neutral switch to see what's going on.
But the fact it starts in gear with the clutch in suggests the neutral switch is either failing under heat or the immobilising system is stuffed, it's one of the two plugs on your fuse box. Easy solution, take a pic of the fuse box and I will see if I have one the same.
I had issues like this with the ZXR4/600thing when making the loom, getting the silly system in the fuse box tricked in to showing the CDI unit the correct voltage so it would make pretty little sparky bits
I know it is a car but I used to have a similar problem with 2 of my old falcons. One was fixed with a new starter motor solenoid. The other was fixed by replacing the earth cable to the starter. Heat from running motor causing aged parts to run inefficiently.
Other symptom was a good battery would drain super fast If you persist in trying to start while hot.
Other thing that I have known to cause a problem similar was in my gsx1100f when the oil was hot it would not start. Just sort of whirred. Clutch in fires up first crack. I just lived with it because the mechs all suggested various fixes that cost a lot of money but none were sure of the fault. Just a lot of might be. Issue went away when the clutch basket and springs were replaced at the end of their lives.
Personally I suspect it ha more to do with the fact they cleaned all of the sensors and earths in the vicinity at the time.
Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
I think you have a dodgy starter motor as you are saying you can still hear it try to turn over when it fails.
This means the contacts bushes are worn and at certain points of rotation it will struggle to get a circuit to energise the starter.
When you are putting the bike into gear it is rocker the starter ever so slightl to the right spot by luck, same as tapping the flywheel with hammer on a car or truck with same problem.
Think the hot and cold part is just random bad luck...
Every great cause begins as a movement, becomes a business, and eventually degenerates into a racket - Eric Hoffer
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