To be fair any time you give a stock setup that has seen a bit of age or mileage a freshen up of liquid, lines and pads you will see a marked difference. Unless you really screwed the pooch it will feel better even if you have used lower quality kit. The only real basis to say it was better from an anecdotal standpoint to have 2 lines over one is because you tried both back to back and felt or measured a difference.
I have seen bike mags bleat on about two likes are better than one because if they are equal in length then exactly the same force
Is applied to both callipers at all times due to identical "flexion" (if there is even such a word) of the hoses. That sounds like that is easy to measure huh?
These are the same magazines that have advertisements for these types of setup. I have also seen a brake special by one of
The titles mentioned that stated you would need some very fancy equipment to tell them apart and the only good reason for two lines is if a single line would be more prone to fowling, but that the most common reason for two is to make their bike look the part.
Ultimately buy what you like for your bike. If you're good enough for a difference that small to be that big a deal a professional will make a recommendation and you'll do a few laps with a data logger before someone else pays.
Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
Yeah. Doesn't necessarily mean for the better though (performance wise). When I had my FahrtSturm, I changed the standard rubbery lines for braided ones (twice! the first ones weren't WOF-friendly), overhauled the calipers (a bit fraught, given BlueWank Honda don't carry ANY spares, so I had to import piston seals). I found that although the overhauled brakes looked better, and braking was better, the feel took some getting used to, as the lack of any flex felt 'wooden' compared to the standard rubber lines. This is probably the reason (well... that, and laziness/cost) that I haven't bothered to change the DCBS system on the VFR for a lighter, uncoupled, braided system. Plus I kinda like the DCBS, as braking on gravel or greasy surfaces using the brake pedal works very nicely, ta!
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
Why - thank you Drew. I didn't believe I was that good ... (really, I have only experienced the difference between one rubber line with an extension or two braided lines).
Line expansion on even OEM rubber lines is minimal to the extreme, they just break down faster and are less efficient in radiating the heat from the fluid.
Hmmm .. I recently fitted braided lines to both of my bikes as and what a hell of a difference.
I did it because I thought it would give me better braking, and it definitely did that. I came to the first major corner on my usual route home, touched the brake as normal - and the bike nearly stopped dead .... a lot less pressure required. That means In a real emergency the bike will stop a lot faster without having to haul on the lever.
On the front I used two lines from the master cylinder (One to each side - if you know Suzuki brake lines, they drop from the master cylinder to the right-hand caliper, with an extension over the mudguard to the other caliper.) A mate pointed out that you could feel the shift on the lip around (where the rivets are) the brake rotor and the rest of the mounting unit on the right hand side, but not on the left, indicating that there was more braking pressure on the right than on the left ... causing the right hand rotor to distort a little more than the left
I've pointed this out to the Suzie riders too ...
Anyway - the braided lines are a HUGE improvement .. I won't argue physics or any of that shit .. I just now they are HUGELY better ...
I recommend two braided lines from the master cylinder - one to each caliper ..
"So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."
Okay. . . It is the AMA that requires 2 line settup on race bikes I'm pretty sure. The Suzuki over the guard setup is clean and cheap as no union boxes. Suzuki do cheap.
The issue is that the loop is easier to get a tiny bit of air in as it's at the top of the system with no bleed point. That was the AMAs rational I guess not every race bike is going to have new fluid freshly bled like they should.
I'd bet half the race grid at most any meeting would have fluid a year old and at club level there would be a good handful that was same fluid as came from the factory no matter the age of the bike.
Two lines will increase braking pressure by 20% but only if you use copper crush washers and 6.0 brake fluid.
Ok that last bit is a troll
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
In and out of jobs, running free
Waging war with society
Anyone that remembers 80s Yams will have noticed the feeling go totally wooden with braided lines. The master cylinder size accounting for a bunch of flex in the lines that only got worse with a few years.
They would have benefited from a size smaller master size to get some lever travel back, and usefully some more power.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
From memory (it was over 10 years ago) that was a problem on the Firestorm too, so replacing the stock set up with braided lines made them MUCH easier to bleed.
VFR is easy to bleed - I just pay someone else to do it. After 40 years, I'm kinda over doing much of my own car/bike maintenance myself, and (almost) comfortable with paying ridiculous amounts of money for other people to get greasy hands and skinned knuckles. Still happy with the 'interesting stuff', like electrical work, customising, etc.
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks