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Thread: GN250 Bobber/BRAT BRATTYBOBBER YES ANOTHER ( apparently)

  1. #1
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    14th May 2016 - 10:24
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    GN250 Bobber/BRAT BRATTYBOBBER YES ANOTHER ( apparently)

    Gn250 Bobber brat

    Yup so have heard now this has been done before sounds like not too many people like it?
    guess its like owning a hella lush rb20e r32 skyline.... the only person that thinks its cool is you...

    picked it up for 900 bucks seems like a solid bike. unsure tho cause i know nothing about bikes don't even have my learners yet
    it goes and changes gear, the starter button doesn't work but it crash starts. so starter motor is stuffed? solenoid sparks when you ark it but starter don't budge.
    will put up pics of the big bike when photo bucket starts working again,

    have a few ideas on how to get it looking mint(in my mind)

    bigger tyres single seat yellow light cover you no all that cool stuff you put on bigger bikes

    will try update this as much as i can for anyone who cares other wise it will just help me keep a log of my build.


    chur DROP THE MIC

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey205 View Post
    Gn250 Bobber brat

    Yup so have heard now this has been done before sounds like not too many people like it?
    guess its like owning a hella lush rb20e r32 skyline.... the only person that thinks its cool is you...

    picked it up for 900 bucks seems like a solid bike. unsure tho cause i know nothing about bikes don't even have my learners yet
    it goes and changes gear, the starter button doesn't work but it crash starts. so starter motor is stuffed? solenoid sparks when you ark it but starter don't budge.
    will put up pics of the big bike when photo bucket starts working again,

    have a few ideas on how to get it looking mint(in my mind)

    bigger tyres single seat yellow light cover you no all that cool stuff you put on bigger bikes

    will try update this as much as i can for anyone who cares other wise it will just help me keep a log of my build.


    chur DROP THE MIC
    Pimp'd ya'll

  3. #3
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    14th May 2016 - 10:24
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    Hard out pimp.

    Ok so just went for a blast round the block. It cuts out when you stop after bout 5mins of driving. Have to crash start it with lights of goes for it turn the lights back on will be ok while driving but as soon as you get down to first gear and slow to a stop it cuts out. Any ideas? Battery alternator?
    Yolo hella flush! Jdm spec! Boosted drift pig.
    Wait wrong fourm......

  4. #4
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    I can understand doing a heap of stuff to a skyline to lower, hot up etc to get more performance bla bla bla but what you are talking about doing to this bike in fact any bike is best described as unmodifying. If you want to learn to ride, don't do any of it! In fact get the bike going, learn to ride it and then spend the money you would have spent on unmodifying on a performance bike that will put a smile on your dial. If you are doing it ONLY for the satisfaction of doing it then that is fine but you will get nothing else out of it. Bikes are expensive as it is and you get nothing back money wise by modifying.
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    I can understand doing a heap of stuff to a skyline to lower, hot up etc to get more performance bla bla bla but what you are talking about doing to this bike in fact any bike is best described as unmodifying. If you want to learn to ride, don't do any of it! In fact get the bike going, learn to ride it and then spend the money you would have spent on unmodifying on a performance bike that will put a smile on your dial. If you are doing it ONLY for the satisfaction of doing it then that is fine but you will get nothing else out of it. Bikes are expensive as it is and you get nothing back money wise by modifying.
    Bikes are about far more than getting money back imho but then bikes are different period.Ive owned at last count 42 of em and to be honest the longest one ive ever owned is still in the shed,ive spent far more $ on it than it will ever be worth but that said its the one thats given me the most bang for buck period,dont ride as much as i used to but if i bother going to say a rally i can park the old thing in a sea of new stuff and when i go back to it theres plenty standing around it having a gander,if you factor money into motorcycling for my money your barking up the wrong tree.Just my opinion.Fwiw ive been offered stupid money for it but see no point in parting with it.
    Be the person your dog thinks you are...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    I can understand doing a heap of stuff to a skyline to lower, hot up etc to get more performance bla bla bla but what you are talking about doing to this bike in fact any bike is best described as unmodifying. If you want to learn to ride, don't do any of it! In fact get the bike going, learn to ride it and then spend the money you would have spent on unmodifying on a performance bike that will put a smile on your dial. If you are doing it ONLY for the satisfaction of doing it then that is fine but you will get nothing else out of it. Bikes are expensive as it is and you get nothing back money wise by modifying.
    Fair comments boss! But why drive a stock bike? Might as well make it my own if i can. I had a datsun b310 lowerd put rims on it tidy it up simple stuff. Was slow as but it was the best car ive owned for so much fun to drive an crusie to the pub in. I dont care enuf about speed to get a big bike. As for money and getting it back dosnt faze me id spend it on somthing else if it aint on a bike. Thanks for the imput tho!
    Yolo hella flush! Jdm spec! Boosted drift pig.
    Wait wrong fourm......

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey205 View Post
    Fair comments boss! But why drive a stock bike? Might as well make it my own if i can. I had a datsun b310 lowerd put rims on it tidy it up simple stuff. Was slow as but it was the best car ive owned for so much fun to drive an crusie to the pub in. I dont care enuf about speed to get a big bike. As for money and getting it back dosnt faze me id spend it on somthing else if it aint on a bike. Thanks for the imput tho!
    My main point was doing mods for your own satisfaction only. Mainly because it is a big waster of money. Check out all the machines for sale with extensive mods that just don't sell. If you are after performance (not necessarily you) you can just buy it, cheaper and better than you modify yourself. Cars are prob very different. Don't get me wrong re mods, it can be satisfying but don't expect everyone to like it or even appreciate it.
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey205 View Post
    Hard out pimp.

    Ok so just went for a blast round the block. It cuts out when you stop after bout 5mins of driving. Have to crash start it with lights of goes for it turn the lights back on will be ok while driving but as soon as you get down to first gear and slow to a stop it cuts out. Any ideas? Battery alternator?
    Bike sounds pretty tired. Could be a few things.

    Check:

    Rust in the tank clogging the carburettor - carbie will have a drain with a screw, get an old kitchen stainless steel bowl and drain into that. If you see rust flakes in the petrol then rust is probably getting into the jets and blocking the gas.

    Clogged or holed air filter - pull it, give it the once over. Have a new one to hand so you know what it should look like. If you need to change it, the new one's right there.

    Oiled or carboned spark plug - pull it and give the insulator inside the nose the once over. Black, sooty, wet looking - you'll lose your spark to electrical leakage through the black stuff. Sooty is too rich, wet black means oil (rings or valve guides / seals). If it's a tan colour then you're OK.

    Vacuum leak between carburetor and cylinder head - heat damaged gasket or insulator, or rooted old rubber boot connecting to carbie. Get a torch and look for dirt trails, they'll show up as a fantail on top of the other dirt. Or you'll just see old rubber, if it's cracked then it's fucked.

    Charging system not working - start bike, check battery voltage with engine running (crank the throttle if you have to, helps to have a mate around). Should be just over 12 at idle and increase to 14-ish with some revs.

    Rooted old battery - pull battery, look for a date marked on it with vivid. If it's more than four years old then it's suspect, if it's more than eight then it's probably fucked. Check battery voltage, too. It should be around 12 V with the bike not running. If you get lower than 10 V - even after the bike's been running, and given the battery a charge - then chances are that the battery is shot.

    Starter - undo and check spade lug connections at every stage between battery terminal, solenoid, and starter motor. Then check that the starter motor is still tight in the engine casings, then check the earth cable between the frame and engine is OK, then check the earth cable between frame and battery negative. It's running a high current when trying to start. Doesn't take much oxide or oil on a bolt / terminal post / spade lug etc etc to upset things.

    Could be one of these, could be any / all of them. Check everything, even if you think you've found it.

    All of this said, it's probably an old battery.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by OddDuck; 14th May 2016 at 22:27. Reason: technical notes about starter motor

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=OddDuck;1130971204]Bike sounds pretty tired. Could be a few things.

    Check:

    Rust in the tank clogging the carburettor - carbie will have a drain with a screw, get an old kitchen stainless steel bowl and drain into that. If you see rust flakes in the petrol then rust is probably getting into the jets and blocking the gas.

    Clogged or holed air filter - pull it, give it the once over. Have a new one to hand so you know what it should look like. If you need to change it, the new one's right there.

    Oiled or carboned spark plug - pull it and give the insulator inside the nose the once over. Black, sooty, wet looking - you'll lose your spark to electrical leakage through the black stuff. Sooty is too rich, wet black means oil (rings or valve guides / seals). If it's a tan colour then you're OK.

    Vacuum leak between carburetor and cylinder head - heat damaged gasket or insulator, or rooted old rubber boot connecting to carbie. Get a torch and look for dirt trails, they'll show up as a fantail on top of the other dirt. Or you'll just see old rubber, if it's cracked then it's fucked.

    Charging system not working - start bike, check battery voltage with engine running (crank the throttle if you have to, helps to have a mate around). Should be just over 12 at idle and increase to 14-ish with some revs.

    Rooted old battery - pull battery, look for a date marked on it with vivid. If it's more than four years old then it's suspect, if it's more than eight then it's probably fucked. Check battery voltage, too. It should be around 12 V with the bike not running. If you get lower than 10 V - even after the bike's been running, and given the battery a charge - then chances are that the battery is shot.

    Starter - undo and check spade lug connections at every stage between battery terminal, solenoid, and starter motor. Then check that the starter motor is still tight in the engine casings, then check the earth cable between the frame and engine is OK, then check the earth cable between frame and battery negative. It's running a high current when trying to start. Doesn't take much oxide or oil on a bolt / terminal post / spade lug etc etc to upset things.

    Could be one of these, could be any / all of them. Check everything, even if you think you've found it.

    All of this said, it's probably an old battery.

    Thanks! Bike runs mint with out lights so im guessing its a charging or battry issue. Im charging than battery over night try in the morning if that works
    Yolo hella flush! Jdm spec! Boosted drift pig.
    Wait wrong fourm......

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    My main point was doing mods for your own satisfaction only. Mainly because it is a big waster of money. Check out all the machines for sale with extensive mods that just don't sell. If you are after performance (not necessarily you) you can just buy it, cheaper and better than you modify yourself. Cars are prob very different. Don't get me wrong re mods, it can be satisfying but don't expect everyone to like it or even appreciate it.
    Cheers bud. I always do it for my self got over what people think about my ideas alittle while ago haha
    Yolo hella flush! Jdm spec! Boosted drift pig.
    Wait wrong fourm......

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey205 View Post
    But why drive a stock bike?
    nobody should drive a bike, you ride, there's a vast difference

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    nobody should drive a bike, you ride, there's a vast difference
    Sorry mate! Why ride a stock bike




    Charged batt over night put in this morning started first pop with start button. So either batt is stuffed? Or altnator is not charging enuf with lights on? Will take it for a blast tonyt and see if it happns again
    Yolo hella flush! Jdm spec! Boosted drift pig.
    Wait wrong fourm......

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey205 View Post
    Charged batt over night put in this morning started first pop with start button. So either batt is stuffed? Or altnator is not charging enuf with lights on? Will take it for a blast tonyt and see if it happns again
    OK - got a cheap recommendation. Pull the battery again, chances are that it's a bit dirty... get a sponge and give it a good wipe down all over (don't turn it upside down or over), dry it off again with an old tea towel before replacing. Dirt + batt electrolyte can mean that it's trickle discharging across its own case, so it'll gradually go flat with the bike standing. This is only likely to be a serious problem if the battery really is filthy and covered in weird crusty chemical-looking stuff though.

    On that note - if you leave the battery standing somewhere, never leave it on concrete. Wood's OK. Lino's OK. Concrete is not, it'll kill a battery in a few weeks due to trickle discharge.

    Also - check electrolyte level, it should be marked on the battery side. If it's low, top up with distilled water - NOT tap water. You can get distilled out of a home dehumidifier, clean the mould and dust out of the catch tray first though.

    Slightly more pricey recommendation - get a cheap multimeter (Jaycar probably) and start tracking battery voltage at the terminals, it'll tell you (and us) a lot more about what's going on.

  14. #14
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    GNs have a super duper shit charging system. If the battery accepted charge enough to fire it up off the button, I doubt it's the source of the problem.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98tls View Post
    Bikes are about far more than getting money back imho but then bikes are different period.Ive owned at last count 42 of em and to be honest the longest one ive ever owned is still in the shed,ive spent far more $ on it than it will ever be worth but that said its the one thats given me the most bang for buck period,dont ride as much as i used to but if i bother going to say a rally i can park the old thing in a sea of new stuff and when i go back to it theres plenty standing around it having a gander,if you factor money into motorcycling for my money your barking up the wrong tree.Just my opinion.Fwiw ive been offered stupid money for it but see no point in parting with it.
    Bit of a long shot comparing your PIMPED TLS to a POS BOBBER GN though, yours looks amazing but a bobber GN is still gonna be Be a POS bobber and never a classic, i will never sell my TLS either,

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