Well I loled.
Well I loled.
Glyphosate: My favourite weapon of choice professionally for over 20 years.
I got to know a thing or two about along the way, and have the student loan to prove it.
What constitutes a poison? Almost anything to excess. Lethal dose of Glyphosate in 50% of cases in rats is ingestion of 19 Litres by Body mass index, the other 50% survived.
The LD50 for Sodium Chloride is 9-11 Litres, (common table salt)
What is Glyphosate and how does it work (kill plants) ? It is a synthetic clone molecule of a naturally occurring plant growth hormone (a salt based molecule, every plant has it). Its method of "killing" plants is to saturate the cells, translocate throughout the entire plant and basically instruct the thing to grow indefinitely, using up all its food reserves until it "grows itself to death". We ingest four differing plant hormones every time we eat a vegetable or piece of fruit.
The "half life" is 48 hours once in contact with soil. I won't explain half life, use google.
The most toxic part of application or use of glyphosate, is the dye used so people can see where they sprayed. I never use it.
Just a note to remember (I specialized in organics/sustainability while studying) just because something is "organic" doesn't mean its not toxic or a poison, and the reverse is also true.
Excuse me now I am off to hug a tree.
Edit: Tradescantia fluminensis eradication with Glyphosate:
Usage rate 150 ml to 15L water. (mix it stronger and it only kills off the foliage, and you want a full translocation to the roots and nodes)
Spray with an organo-silicone penetrant added at 10ml to 15L mixture.
Spray during growth periods, not when it is senescent (not growing, like in the cold months)
Spray three times over three Months, ensuring you get full coverage of the leaves.
The leaves will turn yellowish after first spray, brown and dry after second spray, and the third spray will finish off the whole patch.
It only takes ONE root joint to start the patch again.
Last edited by oldiebutagoody; 2nd March 2016 at 17:29. Reason: spelling
I agree with all of that other than the Penetrant is also likely worse than the Glyphosate as well.
Note Anytime Glyphosate is used on anything shiny or waxy looking a penetrant should be used.
The OP has likely never used Glyphosate or has anything more than a town section.
He likely thinks the world could be fed from organics, rather than the reality, that if everyone was organic, all the world current forested areas would have to be cleared and be devoted to food production
Also since the original patent rights of Glyphosate ran out the price point has reduced by a huge margin.
One of the interesting things I remember about 245T apart from its smell, was how amazingly fast the plants drooped after use, 5 minutes later you could see what you missed.
The other selective herbicides have improved remarkably over the years. No more solvent headaches.
yeah the penetrant can kill even without the Glysophate. I discovered that one day when I forgot to add Glyphosate to the knapsack. Surprised me it was just as effective.
I preferred to use generic branded Glyphosate as it was not colour Dyed, just clear-ish compared to the TM brand Roundup (The red marker dye additive is the most toxic), which was blue for easier tracking. There are also new derivatives of Roundup for using over wet areas such as wetlands and streams as it does not stay active in water like Straight Glyphosate.
I forgot to mention one interesting LD50 statistic:
LD50 for H2O is 21 Litres.
Similar issue with lack of understanding of Agrichemicals occurred a few years ago with the aerial "white spotted tussock moth" eradication campaign. If anyone remembers Auckland being aerially sprayed about 15-16 years ago, and people complaining about the use of BTK and its effects on their allergies or respiratory problems.
BTK (Baccillus thuringiensis) is a bacterial agent that is a naturally occurring organic control specific to Lepidoptera sp. (moths and butterflies)
What turned out to be the irritant culprit was the additive used to disperse it as it was dumped from the plane. BTK got a bad rap due to that debacle.
"float like a Lepidoptera, sting like a Hymenoptera"
Chainsaw with an old chain you are planning on trashing anyway. Chop it down to ground level, wait a few weeks until it sprouts afresh then nuke it with weak Glyphosate every month. Slow kill for a complete kill........
You want new growth, and not too much of it. Removing the bulk of the green growth above the ground will eventually starve the roots. Same theory as black plastic over plants to starve them of sun, except bamboo is very quick growing, can push through plastic/mulch etc, and can send runners sideways to find the light.
If you don't have a chainsaw (lots of care required if you are not an expert) a scrubcutter with a toothed circular blade is very efficient but can catch and grab sending you off in unwanted directions if not wary.
Failing that the slow way is cut each stick at ground level with sharp loppers, right near but not through a joint/node. A joint is way to hard to cut through, and too far away from one it just splits instead of cutting, so about 1 cm either side is ideal.
If you ignore the 2 stroke fumes, none of the above will cause your neighbours cancer. But early weekend mornings after a late night doing the chainsaw thing may be hazardous to someone's health.
Gardening advice column is now closed.
Bamboo is a grass so Gylphoshate and penetrant up and a lot of perseverance should work.
Or try Amitrole which is actually designed for bamboo.
http://www.bunnings.co.nz/mcgregor-s...00ml_p00119833
Failing all of these get yourself a giant Panda, Bitches love Giant Pandas. Plus your neighbours will be jealous as hell.
You missed the second bit.
The most ironic bit is the plants that are killed by the herbicides are far mostly 100 times more deadly to Humans and other animals than the herbicide is to Humans and animals.
Nightshade, Ragwort, Foxglove, Hemlock, Tutu
amitrole for bamboo, metsulfuron for ginger
In theory yes.
In practise Glyphosate knocks it back better and doesn't leave it sitting around with white leaves for ages. Amitrole is supposed to disrupt the transfer of nutrients through the nodes, which it does, but really ugly while waiting for it to die back, which it invariably fails to do before new fresh growth comes back.
Amitrole was developed as a woody weed killer. Trees and shrubs with hardwood suits its application, but fast growing green weeds like Tradescants, Bamboos etc can out pace its killing power.
Gingas are always troublesome. Plants can be too. Wild ginger is always best rooted out by hand and thrown in a 44 gallon drum to compost.
Gardening advice column is really closed this time. Promise.
Its on the neighbors property. Was wishing for a spray and walk away option.
Just spray it with Glyphosate then, keep on doing it. Best let them know what you are doing though as its a fine-able breach to spray drift over your neighbours fence. Minor, unless they kick up a fuss if they catch you doing it. It will die back over time.
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