Anyone own a Hiace ZX (Jumbo)?

[Gremlin]

I don't know why, as I still enjoy my ute, but I've found myself looking at vans... (yeah, odd like that). Mainly the latest model Hiace as it maximises load space within length, but does sit you over the front wheels. Haven't driven one yet.

So I'm curious how guys find them. Bit more practical than a ute in terms of inside storage, can leave stuff in them (like a spare mountain bike) etc. However, because the GSA is not much shy of 1.6m tall the only option is a hi roof (or mid in Transit - but I want auto and Transit is a manual only option partially for availability, partially for reputation) which also means I'll have to watch for clearances - and the main reason it's stopping me is one client has a 2m parking building, the ZX standing at just under 2.3m. Also means it's going to be a bastard in wind (why I like my ute).

Getting the Jumbo means extra wide, long and height. Wide maximises space, especially for bikes side by side, length, I'm hoping to get two rows of seats in the back, and with the 2nd row folded up against the first enough space for motorbikes. I figure I'd need 2.5m at the back, which leaves just under 1m for foot space, seat and a 2nd folded up. I don't want the sandwich board seats, but has anyone come across folding seats with 3 point belts? Ideally sliding as well. Otherwise, have both seats down, and you've got plenty of seats for mates (would be about 8 seats 2-3-3) with plenty of luggage space.

So... thoughts?

[awa355]

We have a number of the Jumbo versions fitted out for carrying people. Nice to drive but awkward to climb in and out of. When driving with wet boots, it is easy to have your foot slip forward off the pedal pads.

[xXGIBBOXx]

Diesel not the petrol , all the tie down eyes are in the corners of the tray , have had the sandwich seats down and a bike in the back . Have had three big bikes in it before, two in the front one backwards . The front two passenger seat doesn't move . It can get tight if your a big unit . can get a bit tail happy in the wet with no payload .

[Gremlin]

Nice to drive but awkward to climb in and out of. When driving with wet boots, it is easy to have your foot slip forward off the pedal pads.

Not too phased about climbing in and out being 6'3, however, seated position when driving (as below) might be an issue. Mate has a one model back Hiace, in and out doesn't concern me much.

Diesel not the petrol , all the tie down eyes are in the corners of the tray , have had the sandwich seats down and a bike in the back . Have had three big bikes in it before, two in the front one backwards . The front two passenger seat doesn't move . It can get tight if your a big unit . can get a bit tail happy in the wet with no payload .

Diesel v Petrol? Stats wise with the limited mileage I do (I've done 8k in the ute since May last year) the petrol will likely be cheaper to run. Jumbo has the 2.7 Petrol, 3.0 Diesel, unless there are known issues with motors?

Yeup, understand tail happy, ute is the same. A bit of reading advised suspension/wheel changes to improve handling... but always some sort of trade off to carry up to a ton.

[Ocean1]

Not too phased about climbing in and out being 6'3, however, seated position when driving (as below) might be an issue. Mate has a one model back Hiace, in and out doesn't concern me much.


Diesel v Petrol? Stats wise with the limited mileage I do (I've done 8k in the ute since May last year) the petrol will likely be cheaper to run. Jumbo has the 2.7 Petrol, 3.0 Diesel, unless there are known issues with motors?

Yeup, understand tail happy, ute is the same. A bit of reading advised suspension/wheel changes to improve handling... but always some sort of trade off to carry up to a ton.

If a Hiace comes anywhere vaguely close to ticking most of your boxes get one. Even being probably the most expensive option up front nothing else is as cheap to own, and that's from the manager of a fleet of different vans.

Before you look at transits ask about the cost of replacing the ignition key when it wears out, (and they do), and the ignition and all of the door locks.

Edit: and apparently the diesels are still cheaper to own up to 300k, at least.

[xXGIBBOXx]

The petrol auto will rev to to moon and not go any where , as the diesel is all torque but low revving and pulls from any gear with or without a load on

[BMWST?]

jumbos are huge for load space and i jump straight in from a small hatchback and dont feel overly big to drive,A queen size bed flies in.Diesel is much more economical day to day but you pay ruc and rego is much more expensive.If you dont do many Ks diesel may not be the way to go.
Do some sums,get the rego and ruc costs of nzta website

[Gremlin]

If a Hiace comes anywhere vaguely close to ticking most of your boxes get one. Even being probably the most expensive option up front nothing else is as cheap to own, and that's from the manager of a fleet of different vans.

Yup, transit not in the picture. As you say, Hiace is expensive but cheap to maintain, plus it should hold it's value quite well.

Diesel is much more economical day to day but you pay ruc and rego is much more expensive.If you dont do many Ks diesel may not be the way to go.
Do some sums,get the rego and ruc costs of nzta website

I started that spreadsheet thread a while ago, petrol v diesel. Need to dig out some consumption figures, but generally diesel is better if you're doing more km. Less km and petrol is cheaper.

How common is cruise control? I know it's become standard this year, but my budget is probably about half a new one... can't seem to find much reference to cruise control, but then I did see some references to having it fitted.

Also, I'm thinking about a 4WD one. Not to join the local 4WD club obviously, but to help mitigate it's tail happy nature.

[Zapf]

Also, I'm thinking about a 4WD one. Not to join the local 4WD club obviously, but to help mitigate it's tail happy nature.

4WD won't help. Traction is a function of downforce and friction. You can increase downforce by buying a few bags of cement and putting it on top of the rear axle.

Ever seen a RWD HiAce reverse up a slop with no load?

[Gremlin]

Ever seen a RWD HiAce reverse up a slop with no load?

Tried with the ute on a gravel road... same result... going nowhere

[Ender EnZed]

4wds are (relatively) rare and expensive. I'd go 2wd unless you really want the premium spec model and manual unless you're a taxi driver.

The manuals use way less fuel and are a lot easier to manage on hills, especially with tight corners. A long van with no load can be a real hassle without a clutch.

[Gremlin]

4wds are (relatively) rare and expensive. I'd go 2wd unless you really want the premium spec model and manual unless you're a taxi driver.

The manuals use way less fuel and are a lot easier to manage on hills, especially with tight corners. A long van with no load can be a real hassle without a clutch.

According to Toyota, 0.2L/100km difference between manual and auto petrol. Negligible difference. Diesel is 0.5L/100km, bit more noticeable. However, diesel (on those figures) will end up cheaper after 4000km a year... that's a very low point mostly due to petrol combined consumption being around 12.5L/100km and diesel being 9.2L/100km.

I'll stay with auto tho, partly because I haven't driven a manual in years, and mostly because of stupid Auckland gridlock, which I do have to deal with now and then. Auto is a hell of a lot easier.

[Ocean1]

According to Toyota, 0.2L/100km difference between manual and auto petrol. Negligible difference. Diesel is 0.5L/100km, bit more noticeable. However, diesel (on those figures) will end up cheaper after 4000km a year... that's a very low point mostly due to petrol combined consumption being around 12.5L/100km and diesel being 9.2L/100km.

I'll stay with auto tho, partly because I haven't driven a manual in years, and mostly because of stupid Auckland gridlock, which I do have to deal with now and then. Auto is a hell of a lot easier.

Fuel consumption difference between petrol and diesel is well more than that in real life.

And the full time 4WD uses probably 10% more fuel, and I don't think the newer ones come with any other sort...

[BMWST?]

Fuel consumption difference between petrol and diesel is well more than that in real life.

And the full time 4WD uses probably 10% more fuel, and I don't think the newer ones come with any other sort...

agreed and the variance i use of a diesel seems to vary a lot less than petrol.My BMW 120d just about always averaged 6.5 l 100 ks in normal use day to day.My" town " running didnt include stop start commuting,but a relatively free run out to the hutt.If i did do a lot of round town stuff over weekends,errands etc,that tank full never varied much from the previous.Even open road trips didnt chang e much really 5.5 l 100.Was a manual,too high geared for nz speed limit.Go to fuelly.com to get real world mpg figures

[Ender EnZed]

According to Toyota, 0.2L/100km difference between manual and auto petrol. Negligible difference. Diesel is 0.5L/100km, bit more noticeable. However, diesel (on those figures) will end up cheaper after 4000km a year... that's a very low point mostly due to petrol combined consumption being around 12.5L/100km and diesel being 9.2L/100km.

I'll stay with auto tho, partly because I haven't driven a manual in years, and mostly because of stupid Auckland gridlock, which I do have to deal with now and then. Auto is a hell of a lot easier.

Suspect there's more than that in it in the real world but auto is obviously better for gridlock traffic.

I've only driven the 3.0 diesels but the auto felt a lot further away from a car than the manual. Obviously they both handle like vans but they've got the power to leave cars behind if you cane it. The auto is programmed for carrying big weight so the rest of the time it feels like it's chasing revs it doesn't need. This works alright if you want to floor it everywhere because it's not yours but for a brisk normal pace I much preferred even the older 75kW ('07?) manual over the 100kW ('12?) auto. I think the new ones are 125kW.

Might be alright with a GSA and some gear in the back. At 4000km a year running costs aren't really an issue and the petrol autos probably have less resale value so you'll get one cheaper/better kms/condition. I'd still strongly recommend taking a diesel manual for a drive though.