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Thread: Long riders?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimekus View Post
    I'm sorry not to have replied earlier. I haven't had a computer for the last few days.

    I'm planning to take just over a week down the West Coast to Milford Sound to get to Invercargill by the 27th and up to two more getting back. I'll be tenting as much as possible but need to be prepared to hunker down in a backpackers for days at a time in case of bad weather. On the way back in Christchurch I could need a new front tire and an oil change.

    I'm flexible of course if I could team up with others coming or going either way.
    South Island roads are a lot more agressive on tyres than North Island roads. If you think you may need a new tyre in Christchurch on the way back, then plane on changing it in Wellington on the way down. This is particularly important if you are going down the west coast. It is 500 km between tyre suppliers, if they even have one in stock.

    As an example, this time last year before leaving Hamilton to head home I looked at my tyres and decided that I would get home with ease. Checked again at Wellington and the rear was squaring off, but still looked fine. Checked again at Christchurch, and decided it would be close, but I should make it OK, and being a sunday I couldn't get a new one that day anyway. At Geraldine it was "Bloody Hell" there was sign of the rubber in the middle of the tread breaking away. By Omarama it was steel belting showing through around 2/3 of the circumference. I rode over the Lindis pass at 50 kmh or less, just waiting for it to give out. Well I made it to Alexandra, with air escaping through what was left of the casing, and about 10 psi pressure. That was through the center with plenty of places to stop if things went pear shaped. Down the west coast you don't have that luxury.
    Time to ride

  2. #32
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    17th October 2014 - 20:34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    South Island roads are a lot more agressive on tyres than North Island roads. If you think you may need a new tyre in Christchurch on the way back, then plane on changing it in Wellington on the way down. This is particularly important if you are going down the west coast. It is 500 km between tyre suppliers, if they even have one in stock.

    As an example, this time last year before leaving Hamilton to head home I looked at my tyres and decided that I would get home with ease. Checked again at Wellington and the rear was squaring off, but still looked fine. Checked again at Christchurch, and decided it would be close, but I should make it OK, and being a sunday I couldn't get a new one that day anyway. At Geraldine it was "Bloody Hell" there was sign of the rubber in the middle of the tread breaking away. By Omarama it was steel belting showing through around 2/3 of the circumference. I rode over the Lindis pass at 50 kmh or less, just waiting for it to give out. Well I made it to Alexandra, with air escaping through what was left of the casing, and about 10 psi pressure. That was through the center with plenty of places to stop if things went pear shaped. Down the west coast you don't have that luxury.
    That's quite a hairy tire story, so if I decide to get in a couple more two day rides before I go south then I'll change the oil and tires in Auckland before my SI trip. Otherwise what about me going down to Christchurch first? That way I could decide on either Wellington or Christchurch to get the work done. Or would I be too exhausted later on to enjoy the West Coast?

    The rear tire has only about 10k on it but vandals had put screws in the tire, so do those repairs and the True Blue Puncture GOO now in mean it needs replacing? The front Michelin has about 2.5mm of tread in the center. It's done about 20k. The oil has only been in for 3K. On the subject of sealant, is this recommended? Should I put it into both new tires?

    As far as weather goes, though I have the rain gear, I've always relied on the Metservice to predict the fine days and don't have any work commitments except for my computer programming hobby. I would judge bad weather by an internet connection and head out again when I see the days are clear. I've still got stuff to do on my Android, for example checking into my seedbox regularly, otherwise over 3 weeks I'll loose some episodes.

  3. #33
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    10th June 2008 - 15:44
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    I would replace both tyres first without any goop but do buy a string repair kit and an extra air cylinder and do the oil change when in ChCh on the way back.

    Do go the west coast first then back up the east after invers, its gonna be awesome for ya

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimekus View Post
    .......The rear tire has only about 10k on it but vandals had put screws in the tire, so do those repairs and the True Blue Puncture GOO now in mean it needs replacing? The front Michelin has about 2.5mm of tread in the center. It's done about 20k. .......
    Replace both before you even start out.

    West Coast weather is not as bad as some here make out. When it rains it rains hard, but as most fronts pass through fairly quickly, just wait a few hours and it'll be fine and sunny.
    Time to ride

  5. #35
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    17th October 2014 - 20:34
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    Quote Originally Posted by mulletman View Post
    I would replace both tyres first without any goop but do buy a string repair kit and an extra air cylinder and do the oil change when in ChCh on the way back.

    Do go the west coast first then back up the east after invers, its gonna be awesome for ya
    I have two left over Slime strips and a bicycle pump. That allowed me to get in about 15psi after 3-400 strokes which got me to a gas station. Should I take the pump and an air cylinder for extra pressure or just take cylinders? What brand and size of cartridge is best?

    A 15m thin 200kg cord is used doubled on windy days to tie the bike to a lamppost and a tree. A bad gust a month ago threw the bike off its center stand. I have no off-street parking and use a strong wind resistant 3x3m webbed matting tied down over a flimsy waterproof cover, but it was no match for the wind here in Meadowbank. I now only use the side stand on a block of wood with the front tire against the curb. I ask about the cord because I want to know if it will suffice as a tie-down for the ferry crossing.

    Online I just bought a pretty decent second Android phone from Telecom for $69 including 30GB/500MB of prepay Wifi/3G to overlap with 500MB of my prepaid Vodafone 3G. My headset buttons control it in my backpack and want to whip out the other phone for easy photography, tethering and regular uploading. I have a Google account but never have done much in the way of photography. What mobile broadband service is best down there and should I plan to use camping grounds near Telecom Wifi Zones or just forget the Internet?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimekus View Post
    .... I ask about the cord because I want to know if it will suffice as a tie-down for the ferry crossing.....
    No, do not use cord as a tie down. Proper tie downs are inexpensive, and available at all motorbike shops I always take 3, although 2 would be sufficient. Take your own. There are some provided on the ferries that may do in a pinch, but they don't suit all bikes.

    On the ferry, place your front wheel in the stand povided, and facing in towards the wall. Side stand down and in gear. Put the left hand tie down from your handlebars down to a ring in the floor at about a 30 degree angle and just take up the slack, do not pull tight just yet. Use a cloth or similar between the tie down and the fairing. Now put on the right hand tie down in a similar manner, but pull this one tight. The bike will stand up straighter, and pull itself down onto the front suspension. Now tighten each side in turn until the bike is hard down on the front suspension. It will not move from this position no matter how rough the crossing may be.
    Time to ride

  7. #37
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    29th July 2014 - 10:18
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    You should use the lower triple clamp as the primary tie down point. The bars/clip-ons should be a secondary tie down point to stabilize the bike and not used in the manner prescribed below.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    On the ferry, place your front wheel in the stand povided, and facing in towards the wall. Side stand down and in gear. Put the left hand tie down from your handlebars down to a ring in the floor at about a 30 degree angle and just take up the slack, do not pull tight just yet. Use a cloth or similar between the tie down and the fairing. Now put on the right hand tie down in a similar manner, but pull this one tight. The bike will stand up straighter, and pull itself down onto the front suspension. Now tighten each side in turn until the bike is hard down on the front suspension. It will not move from this position no matter how rough the crossing may be.

  8. #38
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    17th October 2014 - 20:34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSheepLogic View Post
    You should use the lower triple clamp as the primary tie down point. The bars/clip-ons should be a secondary tie down point to stabilize the bike and not used in the manner prescribed below.
    Thanks for the tie down hints.

    On the question of oil, as I'm now half way between changes and as I've other plastic repairs to do, meaning I maybe unlikely to ride much between now and then, is there anything wrong with keeping the existing oil to put back in when I get back or has it done its dash? The oil filter has done 3k and would then be ready for replacement after doing 5k for the South Island and a further 2k on the decanted oil. Incidentally, I'm running the oil slightly lower now, half way between the high and low marks, so it doesn't put excessive pressure on the engine that's done 76k. I read that stunt riders overfill their oil but what about an intensive road trip? Is there any way to judge the oil when I get back?

  9. #39
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    Long riders?

    The cost of the oil vs the cost of the servicing. Or failure to service is the question.

    I'd drop it out and either throw it out or put it through a coffee filter and put it in an oiler can for squeaky gates etc.
    There is all kinds of contaminants the sump side of the oil filter. Many heavy enough to never leave the sump. Not true if you the. Mix it all up then put it back on an old filter.


    I am a stingy bugger, but not double dip the tea bag stingy.

    I also change the filter with every oil change rather than every second as is recommended for some bikes. Again a < $20 oil filter vs crud building up in difficult to clean or expensive to replace places.


    Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

  10. #40
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    One less thing to worry about on trip also.


    Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

  11. #41
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    17th October 2014 - 20:34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dog View Post
    The cost of the oil vs the cost of the servicing. Or failure to service is the question.

    I'd drop it out and either throw it out or put it through a coffee filter and put it in an oiler can for squeaky gates etc.
    There is all kinds of contaminants the sump side of the oil filter. Many heavy enough to never leave the sump. Not true if you the. Mix it all up then put it back on an old filter.


    I am a stingy bugger, but not double dip the tea bag stingy.

    I also change the filter with every oil change rather than every second as is recommended for some bikes. Again a < $20 oil filter vs crud building up in difficult to clean or expensive to replace places.


    Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
    It's more like not wanting to throw out a half eaten favorite home-cooked meal because a friend comes round and invites you out to dinner. Anyway I've heeded the advice given and decided not to go until my tires and oil are ready to be changed, but I'm not throwing away thousands of kilometers because I picked the wrong time to go. I first chose end of November early December to miss the school holidays and because my sleeping bag is for really cold weather. I prefer colder rides, less mosquitoes, etc. I don't have heated grips and should hypothermia strike I just dismount put on a few more layers or grab hold of the mufflers until my hands are warmed up.

    In my planning I found the Burt Munro Challenge and was intrigued with the idea that there might be like minded bikers on the ferry crossing that I could team up with. Once I was alone on a lonely Northland road when a rat trap was sprung by my front wheel. It launched a couple 5" wooden spears through my back tire. It was 11km to the nearest village which wouldn't have been out of place in the movie Deliverance. I was robbed and spent the whole day getting out of the place.

    Is not riding alone in the South Island is something to consider? What are the best South Island riding months?

  12. #42
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Advice is like a box of chocolates.
    Only people with chocolates can offer you one.
    Not all chocolates are good.
    You don't have to take all offers of chocolate, bit if you don't take any you don't have any you didn't have to start with.

    And that is a bit like having a wank when a root was on offer.


    Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimekus View Post

    Is not riding alone in the South Island is something to consider? What are the best South Island riding months?
    Riding alone has never been an issue as far as I'm concerned, but I've only been doing that since 1971.

    The best months for riding in the South Island dpend on just what you want to see. For spectular snow covered mountains then July August and September are the best months. For colourful blossum them September and October are hard to beat. November and December are always good for less traffic on the roads and spectacular rivers and waterfalls. January to March are generally hot and dry, perfect for camping out and going to the beach. April to June, great autumn colours and lovely balmy evenings, althoug June can be starting to get cold on inland routes.

    What months to avoid? Only those months starting with a W. My bikes are registered all year round.

    Regarding BlackSheepLogic's comment about using the lower triple clamp rather than handlebars for your tie downs. I have had bikes where that would work, but my last four bikes would all end up with damaged fairings if I tried that. Inter Islander recommends using the handlebars, and on the packaging for my last set of tie downs the diagram showed the handle bars being used as well. Try both methods on your bike before you leave home and see which suits your bike best.
    Time to ride

  14. #44
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    1st July 2007 - 17:40
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimekus View Post
    after buying a 20 year old road bike, only my forth since the 60s, i didn't think it was going to be off the road for many months over the last year, but now i think it is ready to go to the south island. After doing 14000km around the north island i'm thinking seriously of leaving from auckland in time to reach invercargill by the end of november. Who else has planned such a trip?
    me me me.

  15. #45
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    27th July 2007 - 21:35
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    Do try to avoid tying down by the handlebars if at all possible... The bars on my last bike were bent just enough to be annoying. I know it had been over on the ferry a few times, and suspect it was either tightened down too much, or had a rough crossing.

    Or if you tie it down by the handlebars, make sure it's in close to the risers?

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