Been browsing through posts for information regarding chains - mine needs replacing. Got the information I needed from this post. Just wanted to say thanks guys![]()
Been browsing through posts for information regarding chains - mine needs replacing. Got the information I needed from this post. Just wanted to say thanks guys![]()
When I was googling I found this very helpful.
Takeaways -
- Riveted master link has 100% the reliability of the other links. Screw master link has 95% the reliability, clip master link 70%.
- All 520 chains are not equal. Some are heavier/stronger, others lighter/weaker. Some 520s may surpass weak 525s. More expensive does not necessarily mean lasts longer, it could just be lighter (in exchange for less life).
- Any decent aftermarket chain will be better than what it came from the factory with, and will offer fine service if looked after.
I borrowed a breaker/ rivet tool from a buddy to do my chain recently. Wasn't too tough for my first time. The one on there was a 108 link and was well fucked (no more swingarm adjustment), compared to my new one where it fitted with hardly any adjustment at the other end!
I found this helpful as well for making sure the rear wheel is square after. Not 100%, or as good as laser, but will be better than using the swingarm marks. Use duct tape on the rear tyre to hold the string in place. You might want to use a level to make sure the string is level-ish on the rear wheel too.
Other thing about that - set chain tension first, getting the rear 'roughly' aligned (using swingarm marks) first. Then when you adjust the alignment with the string method, use just the brake side adjuster to square it up, that way you're not putting your chain tension out as much.
"It's hard to keep an open mind, when so many people are trying to put things in it"
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