The Pro Taper will be off road bars so check the minimum measurement you need to allow for grip, lever mounts and switch blocks as dirters don't need switch blocks so ofter have less area from the bend to the flat grip part.
Forum whore
The Pro Taper will be off road bars so check the minimum measurement you need to allow for grip, lever mounts and switch blocks as dirters don't need switch blocks so ofter have less area from the bend to the flat grip part.
Nana
I have a set of cheapies very similar to these.http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-822874432.htm
In retrospect I wish I had paid the extra and got something stiffer.
I was impatient and needed to sort the problems in my wrists right now.
gee wizzz
First thing to establish is how the handlebar risers are mounted.-look under the top triple clamp-should be a nut to unbolt under each riser.
Simple matter of unbolting then bolting the pro taper mounts in place.
The clutch an brake perches just unbolt.You need t be able to slide the left grip off the existing bar undo the switch blocks and they slide off.
You might need to drill locating holes for he switch gear to match the locating pegs.
To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?
L-Plate Rider
Got the bike and checked it out. From the pictures attached can I just adjust the height of the bars from the bottom,but will change it up later as the bar is to straight for my liking.
L-Plate Rider
Also have found some sort of calcium build on the folks, what can i attack this with?
Forum whore
That may be cracks in the clear coat that the factory put over the polished alloy.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
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